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25 August 2010, 10:15
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#1
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Member
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
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Fibreglass works
Hello guys,
Could you please tell me what kind of material or what you use after you finish your fiberglass/wood works and before painting?
Is it something like P40 or P36? Please look at the image.
And how you paint it? Do I need proper "air paint gun" and all expensive equipment or you know any trick which I can use "at home"?
What paint you use? Deck paint? Gelcoat? Topcoat?
Thank you again for your help...
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25 August 2010, 15:07
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,996
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interested in seeing your results - good work
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25 August 2010, 15:13
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#3
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Member
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
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Unfortunately it's not my work
I wish to do something like that but I do not know what material I should use for finish.
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25 August 2010, 16:42
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#4
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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Hi, there might be easier ways, but I would use several layers of 2 component epoxy primer. Finishing with 2 comp PU paint. Topcoat/flowcoat is another option.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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26 August 2010, 02:27
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#5
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Houston, TX
Boat name: Lady Ashley
Make: Avon SR 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70 Merc 2S
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 96
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Just finished painting new fiberglass. After going to 2 paint stores, both recommended either self priming 2 part epoxy finish or epoxy primer followed with polyurethane. The PU will stand up to UV much better. The epoxy finish will eventually get chalky and yellow. One thing, be careful about how strong the solvents are in epoxy paint. They help the paint mechanically bond to the GRP, but I was told that they can actually dissolve it. I used a 2 part water based and it was very easy. Don't mix all of the epoxy at once though. You have to wait for each coat to dry before recoating and the first batch will cure before you get all of your coats down. I thought I could outsmart the paint by putting the can in the freezer between coats, but it didn't work. I was able to get down 3 coats before it turned hard in the can. About 2 hours pot life.
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26 August 2010, 09:39
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#6
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Member
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
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Jefflee how you paint it? brash, air gun?
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26 August 2010, 11:46
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Switzerland
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu TLDI
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,559
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Do you want a smooth glossy finish? If so you'll need to do something like this:
Fair it with a paste made up of polyester resin and micro bubbles, get it as smooth as possible. This should be easy to sand flat, repeat of necessary. Once you have a nice flat finish with no lumps or holes, apply some sort of paint system, sanding between each coat with fine wet and dry. Read the paint instructions and apply with a micro foam roller rather than a brush. I used international brightside but I'm not sure whether its still available. The two part international version could be good though, can't remember the name.
If you don't want a glossy finish then apply flo coat (gel coat with wax mixed in so it hardens in air) with a foam roller to give an Orange peel effect. It's quick, easy and very hard wearing. One coat needed, wack it on thick.
Hope that helps.
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27 August 2010, 01:56
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: weston-super-mare
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 3
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http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic....3968&start=250
This may help you. the hull is an epoxy/glass-marine plywood composite construction. I built it.
BTW, if you really want your eyes opened on how badly some production boats are constructed, including some of the big names, have a look in the repair section of that forum board.
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27 August 2010, 02:21
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#9
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Houston, TX
Boat name: Lady Ashley
Make: Avon SR 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70 Merc 2S
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 96
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I just used a normal 3/8" roller, but I didn't have to worry about a smooth finish because the deck is very heavily textured. For a smooth surface a foam roller works well but may not be compatable with some epoxy paints. They get hot when mixed and could melt the foam. Do an internet search for "roll and tip". A very good technique that gives the look of spray finish. Also some demo videos on youtube to see how its done.
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27 August 2010, 03:49
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Milton
Boat name: Sanford 6M
Make: Avon
Length: 6m +
Engine: TBD - Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 29
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That is actually my Mako. After a "gift" of a Raymarine E80, that didn't fit in my CC, I had to take the sawzall to my cc. I used the Interlux brand of paint, and it worked pretty good. I first used Interlux Pre-kote epoxy primer, followed by Interlux Brightside, which is a one part epoxy paint. I used a brush, as I didn't use a spray gun, as I didn't want to get overspray all over the T-top. The paint self levels on horizontal surfaces very well, and the finish was awesome, the vertical surfaces did not fair as well, as the paint ran a bit. I need to do alot more sanding.
I would recommend it. Just don't do the job in June, when you are rushing to put the boat in the water...
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27 August 2010, 11:11
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#11
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Member
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
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Definitely June is not a good time for works. I know something about this. For last two years every weekend I’ve spent on my RIB.
Thanks for tips.
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