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06 February 2017, 16:49
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Flitch Green
Boat name: The Butt
Make: Ribtec 655
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 HP Mercury
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
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Filling screw holes on deck
Hi all
Another question!
I have removed all the jockey seats - they were fixed with S/S self tappers - so that I can cover the desk with Permateek.
The question is - when I refix the seats the chances are they will be in slightly different positions but only by a few mm or cm.
Rather than trying to marry up the old holes (which would be tricky once the synthetic teak is down) I need to fill the old holes but with strong enough stuff that if a new screw position is close to an old, they will still hold.
I was thinking epoxy filler - would this be OK?
Image shows the colour I am going for - if you are interested! :-)
Thanks!
Mode
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06 February 2017, 18:26
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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Get some hard wood dowel larger then the hole with a point to start coat in waterproof glue and hammer in they will be force fit and swell if they did get wet but cover with flowcoat to seal before laying floor
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06 February 2017, 18:30
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Flitch Green
Boat name: The Butt
Make: Ribtec 655
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 HP Mercury
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
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Thanks!!!!!!
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06 February 2017, 18:55
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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What's the deck made of? Foam sandwich or wood?
If foam id epoxy filler, either off the shelf or epoxy resin mixed with Cabosil
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07 February 2017, 12:27
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Flitch Green
Boat name: The Butt
Make: Ribtec 655
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 HP Mercury
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
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Ply with fibreglass
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07 February 2017, 16:02
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 256
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Also use Sikaflex as well as screws to hold the seats in when you put them back.
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07 February 2017, 16:31
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode
Hi all
Another question!
I have removed all the jockey seats - they were fixed with S/S self tappers - so that I can cover the desk with Permateek.
The question is - when I refix the seats the chances are they will be in slightly different positions but only by a few mm or cm.
Rather than trying to marry up the old holes (which would be tricky once the synthetic teak is down) I need to fill the old holes but with strong enough stuff that if a new screw position is close to an old, they will still hold.
I was thinking epoxy filler - would this be OK?
Image shows the colour I am going for - if you are interested! :-)
Thanks!
Mode
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Depending on how far you want to go & how good a job you want to do, you could bond some Big Heads on to the deck before you lay your permateak & bolt the seat pods down on a bed of Sika.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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07 February 2017, 21:23
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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12 February 2017, 22:57
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode
Ply with fibreglass
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Jeffs wood and grp or epoxy filler are both options
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13 February 2017, 00:31
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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If you're sure that the new seat screws are not going to marry up with the old holes, then you could just countersink the old holes and pop self tappers back into them. I wouldn't hammer in a dry dowel made from wood because it'll be end grain up and wood end grain is like a bunch of straws. I guess you could saturate them first in resin and put them in wet, it might help.
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JW.
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13 February 2017, 10:15
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Darlington
Boat name: Duo-diver
Make: Avon SR5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 64
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I have just taken the bottle rack out of my sea-rider and replaced the existing fixings with a liberal 'dollop' of sikaflex in the hole and then painted over the top with a couple of layers of 'International' paint.
Aesthetically 'ok' but hopefully secure and long lasting.
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13 February 2017, 18:05
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
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13 February 2017, 18:11
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
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....as said many times before
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A Wise Man learns by other people's!
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13 February 2017, 19:37
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
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In that case, why not just scoosh the holes full of epoxy and save messing about? kiss...
I take it you've actually done this successfully and tested your results extensively before you gave out this advice so freely?
I've noticed you do quite a lot of armchair engineering....
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JW.
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13 February 2017, 20:43
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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If you just fill the hole with anything that doesn't swell you won't seal it and have a poor construction joint the holes will have a screw thread the full length unless he drills out bigger for a better face to glue to even then it's not going to be good due to the nature of drilling leaving a scroll
The swellseal mastic is a good product if he can buy a single tube we use it underwater to seal sluice gate frames when they have leaks behind frames to wall fixings
Yes I've done it before when I fitted new jockey bases to my rib filling the holes creates a platform for the flow coat to rest / seal to by making sure you have the hole sealed as a back up in case the flow coat cracks its basic engineering.
As for arm chair engineering anything I post is from expeariance or an idea to be kicked around the tin during open debate is this not the basis of a forum in the end the OP can choose from all the ideas and make his own mind up and it's free
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13 February 2017, 21:14
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
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I would probably run a drill through the hole to clean it up, prime the inside of the hole with straight epoxy and then fill it with epoxy mixed with microfibres which is the structural adhesive filler.
Another option is to 'insert' the area in way of the screw holes. You can cut the holes with a hole saw and being anal I tend to cut the inserts with a jig saw to get a better fit. Again prime the edges with neat epoxy and then use microfibres for the joint.
This seems like a PITA but it does give you fresh wood and removes any damage due to water ingress in way of the old screw holes.
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16 February 2017, 13:26
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Flitch Green
Boat name: The Butt
Make: Ribtec 655
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 HP Mercury
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
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Thanks for all the tips guys - I will pick a solution and run with it!
The only thing I will add is that the number of holes is going to be a lot - see attached image - 5 jockey seats with lots of screws in each!!
Mode
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16 February 2017, 14:07
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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hi mode
two pics of mine i went from 4 jockeys to 2 suspention seats, my old jockeys were internal flange but i wanted external on the new ones so i could keep an eye on them with the extra forces on the bases since i installed them myself so in total i filled about eighty holes and redrilled forty with the method previously mentioned.
for info gorrilla glue is 100% waterproof and swells to 3-4 times when one side of the wood is damp so achiving a tight joint which willtake out the problem of rough surfaces if you go down the dowel method
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19 February 2017, 02:08
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#19
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Iksal village
Boat name: C-Scanner
Make: rib520
Length: 5m +
Engine: suzuki70 df
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 202
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Found this thread
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19 February 2017, 14:01
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sameh
Found this thread
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