Finishing/Polishing Equipment - suggestions?

willk · 04 August 2010, 10:58

I'm doing a spot of RIB tidying and want to rejuvenate the topside glasswork and the hull. I've searched here for suitable cleaners, compounds and polishes, so good there, but I'm a newbie at this stuff - can anyone recommend a polishing machine and suitable pads? I'll probably be ordering from the UK so a link is as good as a nod to a blind horse.

I don't need top end kit for commercial use but I don't believe in buying scrap either (no Redbay comments, pls

)

If there are any obvious (to you) pitfalls in working with compound and polish, I'd REALLY appreciate hearing about them now, before I start

Slaphead · 04 August 2010, 11:35

A Sealey polishing machine, tub of Farecla G3 and plenty of water will bring it up like new.

martini · 04 August 2010, 12:15

I'll mention the water again as it's very important for lubricating and cooling as you're polishing, very easy to put burn marks in the gelcoat and nigh on impossible to get them out!

Into The Blue · 04 August 2010, 12:16

That combination worked like a dream for me.

http://www.tooled-up.com/ManProduct.asp?PID=27011

http://www.tooled-up.com/ManSubCateg...ID=13&SCID=155

Made a damn awful mess of anything within 15ft of the polishing head but I got the fixed speed model, in hindsight I'd have purchased the variable speed polisher, when mine starts up it sprays the compound everywhere.

Just keep the head damp and moving, stay still for too long and it'll dry out and burn the surface. Having a hose pipe handy was a good idea.

willk · 04 August 2010, 12:52

Good stuff guys, thanks!

I take it that I'm to avoid "random" orbital machines then?

If you remember, it would help a lot if you can tell me the spec or size of the mop heads - i.e. which type is best for painted Gelcoat and which for "lifting" a tad of a cleanish* console. I can work out the fit for the machine when I settle on one.

The hosepipe/water tip is appreciated. I take it one just exercises caution with the lekkie sander in the other hand!

*I say cleanish, because donegaldan was in the RIB again

chewy · 04 August 2010, 13:14

I've got a Meguiars Dual action polisher although cheaper versions are now available.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish...es/cat_68.html

A normal rotary polisher will be cheaper and get the job doe quicker but with the risk of burning the gel coat.
With a DA polisher they do cost a bit more but you'll destroy the foam pads before you burn the gel coat.
As for foam pads you get different types, I have three different ones for my car starting from a restore pad to remove swirl marks, then a polish pad then a finishing pad, the pads act as an abrasive to help remove any marks.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish...ds/cat_13.html

To get rid of any nasty swirls I use this, works a treat:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish.../prod_228.html

Have a look at the photos at the bottom of the Menerza page above.

All depends how far you want to go and the finish you want. On my car I do the following:

Wash and dry,
clay paint,
polish with Menerza,
polish with Autoglym super resin polish,
coat of red moose glaze,
coat of hard wax,
coat of soft wax.

Have fun!

Max... · 04 August 2010, 13:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Into The Blue

Made a damn awful mess of anything within 15ft of the polishing head but I got the fixed speed model, in hindsight I'd have purchased the variable speed polisher, when mine starts up it sprays the compound everywhere.

Start it up holding it 'in' an empty bucket to avoid that.

willk · 04 August 2010, 13:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by chewy

I've got a Meguiars Dual action polisher

Chewy, is that the same as Random orbital?

That's much polishing of your car

Mollers · 04 August 2010, 13:43

Cheap polishers tend to run bastard size head threads. A converter can be half the price of the polisher.

The mop is the important bit, I favour Farecla supermops and 3m Finesse GRP compound. Any decent polish will finish the job. I use Mer.

Maximus · 04 August 2010, 13:45

A BIG tip Wilk would be to go for an ajustable speed polisher,that way you can slow the whole process down until you become confident,water tips right on,and can be applied with a hand sprayer,dont over do it though or you'll make a hell of a mess!
Keep checking your work...you can ALWAYS take more off,but dont know ANYONE who's cracked polshing the finish back on!

chewy · 04 August 2010, 14:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Any decent polish will finish the job. I use Mer.

Polishes don't offer any protection as all they do is cut away at the paint.
You should really finish off with a wax or a sealent.

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

Chewy, is that the same as Random orbital?

That's much polishing of your car

Yeh random orbital is the same as dual action.
Did the car for the first time the other day and took about 5 hrs, it stays cleaner for longer after wax has been applied and is then easier to clean next time. Carlac sealent for windows is also good, works like rain x.

wiLlfish · 04 August 2010, 22:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by chewy

Did the car for the first time the other day

bowt tyme tooo

chewy · 04 August 2010, 23:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiLlfish

bowt tyme tooo

Love the signature, you can read his mind!

Slaphead · 04 August 2010, 23:25

This is a pic from an old polishing thread from 2007. It is off my old Hardy Pilot, the hulls of which were notorious for fading and oxidising. I used 3M Marine fibreglass restorer and polished the whole hull by hand, which came up without too much effort. You can see the difference it made....trouble is it's back to where it was now

IBWET · 05 August 2010, 11:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

I'm doing a spot of RIB tidying and want to rejuvenate the topside glasswork and the hull. I've searched here for suitable cleaners, compounds and polishes, so good there, but I'm a newbie at this stuff - can anyone recommend a polishing machine and suitable pads? I'll probably be ordering from the UK so a link is as good as a nod to a blind horse.

I don't need top end kit for commercial use but I don't believe in buying scrap either (no Redbay comments, pls

)

If there are any obvious (to you) pitfalls in working with compound and polish, I'd REALLY appreciate hearing about them now, before I start

Chewy knows his stuff..

the only thing I would say is Makita do a orbital polisher that has a I believe a shunt motor,this means it's speed stays constant irrespective of how hard or soft you use it. It's also variable speed, also very important. Useing plenty water (which is neccessary) dosen't get thrown about if you can start slowly with variable speed. The one I have has done some sterling work over the years.

All the boating forums in the states rate Maguiar's. Mer is good, but takes twice the time, last half as long and dosen't repel the crap for as long.

So G10 ,take your time,(the cut is 75% of it) then Maguiar's .....then get your gregory pecs on ..

willk · 05 August 2010, 14:15

Many thanks to all for sterling advice. I have enough to go on but feel free to keep it coming. Especially links to good deals on a polisher...

There are some champion deal spotters on here

biffer · 06 August 2010, 08:40

ere's my bit, put the polish on the job with a paint brush not on the mop head, that way when you start it up it don't flick everywhere

willk · 06 August 2010, 09:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

put the polish on the job with a paint brush not on the mop head...

Mollers · 06 August 2010, 10:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

ere's my bit, put the polish on the job with a paint brush not on the mop head,

Yep, I use a witches hat.

Into The Blue · 06 August 2010, 10:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Yep, I use a witches hat.

Seeing you using a witches hat must be worth a picture