Fitting Sounder into the Hull - Page 2

Chris · 25 January 2010, 17:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedajim

Why would you want to drill into the deck and then have the hassle of sealing it and running the cable out etc, can't you just hang one off the transom

It now gets in the way of the Lenco's

Erin · 25 January 2010, 20:00

I assume you are planning on fixing the transducer internally with resin. I'd be very interested to hear how wellit works. I've been thinking about doing this myself, but wasn't sure how effective it is. I've had the transom types before, but they either get kicked up too easily or get covered in weed and slime on my beach mooring.

Chris · 26 January 2010, 23:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

I assume you are planning on fixing the transducer internally with resin. I'd be very interested to hear how wellit works. I've been thinking about doing this myself, but wasn't sure how effective it is. I've had the transom types before, but they either get kicked up too easily or get covered in weed and slime on my beach mooring.

The process has started

I will take some pics and measurements as I go.

It really is not the nicest time of year to be working in a cold barn though

Downhilldai · 26 January 2010, 23:10

Are you going to form a well, just forward of the transom?

Chris · 26 January 2010, 23:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Are you going to form a well, just forward of the transom?

No I am going to drill a hole in the deck about 6" wide, reach through and epoxy the sounder directly to the hull then use a bomar deckplate to seal the hole.

Before I go down the epoxy route I will probably do a test run using silicone. If that works wel then I will probably leave it set in the silicone.

Downhilldai · 26 January 2010, 23:53

Bomar hatches are good - I've used a few of them over the years and they've lasted well. I don't know how watertight one would be on the deck of a RIB though.
A friend of mine has a Ribcraft 6.5 with a really good white round deck hatch made of what looks like polypropylene, with a very effective rubber seal. It has a large 'U' shaped stainless 'key' which fits into a couple of blind holes in the deckplate to unscrew it from the housing. We had to check the transducer a couple of months back, and it was really dry in the void, so the hatch/deckplate did the job very well.

How are you going to seal the cable where it passes through the deck?

Hightower · 27 January 2010, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

How are you going to seal the cable where it passes through the deck?

I'm guessing it won't come though the deck and will go directly into the under deck trunking to run right though to the console

bedajim · 28 January 2010, 08:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

It now gets in the way of the Lenco's

What are you looking to achieve with the Lenco's, is your set up a broblem?

Chris · 28 January 2010, 13:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedajim

What are you looking to achieve with the Lenco's, is your set up a broblem?

I had the chance to take Roy Bishops 7 meter out in the solent chop and was impressed with how being able to pin the nose down made an already nice ride even nicer !

Also when I have a several people on board it would be useful to have that extra lift at the back.

Chris · 28 January 2010, 13:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Bomar hatches are good - I've used a few of them over the years and they've lasted well. I don't know how watertight one would be on the deck of a RIB though.
A friend of mine has a Ribcraft 6.5 with a really good white round deck hatch made of what looks like polypropylene, with a very effective rubber seal. It has a large 'U' shaped stainless 'key' which fits into a couple of blind holes in the deckplate to unscrew it from the housing. We had to check the transducer a couple of months back, and it was really dry in the void, so the hatch/deckplate did the job very well.

How are you going to seal the cable where it passes through the deck?

There is enough gap between the deck and the bulkheads underneath that you can pass the cable up into the transom box.

I will take plenty of pics

bedajim · 28 January 2010, 14:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

I had the chance to take Roy Bishops 7 meter out in the solent chop and was impressed with how being able to pin the nose down made an already nice ride even nicer !

Also when I have a several people on board it would be useful to have that extra lift at the back.

Will it get much lift before it planes with them ?

Chris · 28 January 2010, 17:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedajim

Will it get much lift before it planes with them ?

It will get more lift to help it onto the plane and will enable planing at lower speeds, however its the ability to keep the nose down even when heavily loaded and running low on fuel that appeals. On the bristol to rock trip last year I really felt I could have done with some more down trim on the outboard at times however it was fully trimmed in so the tabs will give me that extra bit that I am after when its needed however when retracted I will still have a boat that is good in a following sea,

Downhilldai · 28 January 2010, 18:18

I remember Hugh Jardon trying to get some weight forward in his Vipermax 6.5, 'cos he felt the bow was light. IIRC, he ended up dropping some sand bags in the anchor locker.
bedajim: do you find yours light in the bow?

Mollers · 28 January 2010, 18:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

.....bedajim: do you find yours light in the bow?

A list to starboard is more of an issue with Jigsaw.

Downhilldai · 28 January 2010, 18:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

A list to starboard is more of an issue with Jigsaw.

Not when I was on the port seat in the back.

Ian M · 28 January 2010, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

bedajim: do you find yours light in the bow?

Cannot answer for James, but with my admittedly limited experience to date, the impression that I have been left with is that whilst the bow does not exactly feel light, I cannot get the bow down as far as I would like by trimming in. Minor effect, but it is there.

Chris · 29 January 2010, 12:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

A list to starboard is more of an issue with Jigsaw.

Hmmm, TimeBandit has as similar issue, must be prop torque

Chris · 29 January 2010, 12:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian M

Cannot answer for James, but with my admittedly limited experience to date, the impression that I have been left with is that whilst the bow does not exactly feel light, I cannot get the bow down as far as I would like by trimming in. Minor effect, but it is there.

I have to be honest and say that with mine the bow feels absolutely spot on 95% of the time. its the extremes that are always difficult to cater for ie a boat that runs flat all the time will handle rough chop well but will struggle to keep its nose up in a following sea. Likewise a boat that is "unstuffable" will probably fly its bow into a big head sea.

Its alway a compromise isn't it... however the idea of the tabs is that you can remove some of the need for compromise and close the gap to perfection even further

Downhilldai · 29 January 2010, 12:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

....the idea of the tabs is that you can remove some of the need for compromise and close the gap to perfection even further

Is that what the bloke in the shop said?

bedajim · 29 January 2010, 12:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

A list to starboard is more of an issue with Jigsaw.

Not anymore Rasher now sits in the front port pod, without the handheld, but he's just got himself an EPIRB thing

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

I remember Hugh Jardon trying to get some weight forward in his Vipermax 6.5, 'cos he felt the bow was light. IIRC, he ended up dropping some sand bags in the anchor locker.
bedajim: do you find yours light in the bow?

He was just a boating lightweight

Mines fine but I've got some big anchor chain in the locker
The truth is I wouldn't know like 90% of other experts but it seems to ride ok for me