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22 June 2017, 20:35
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wemyss bay
Make: coastline 6.0
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 150hp
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 106
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flooring suggestions
what options have people went for with regards flooring on their rib?
flowcoat, flexiteek, tekdeck or any other covering?
i have changed the console and the gel under where the old one was is stained and looks untidy so am looking for a solution to tidy it up.
pictures always welcome.
cheers
nick
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22 June 2017, 21:44
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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A photo would be really useful?
Unless you Fakeyteak the entire boat I don't see the point. A complete waste of money and less than ideal surface on an open RIB, IMO.
Some flowcoat with added nonslip bits over the entire deck would be cheap(ish) and look authentic while also being very safe. It would lift the look of the entire interior and take a couple of hours to do.
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22 June 2017, 22:21
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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I did my rib with grit entrained flowcoat from east coast resin supplies the coating is very cheap but the prep is fairly long winded I used 60 grit discs on a angle grinder took two days but looked great when finished. Teak deck etc is very nice but expensive and you need to be very carefull cutting to make it neat MO of course
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22 June 2017, 22:34
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
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International Interdeck paint is the one I tend to use.
Deck paints on test - Practical Boat Owner
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22 June 2017, 22:37
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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I'd stick with flocoat. If the non slip pattern is still complete you could just top it all up to make it match. It's the most durable thing there is. The east coast non slip is quite aggressive imo
Another soft option is specific paints. My deck is done in kiwigrip and it's amazing stuff. Not cheap though and will need some bi yearly maintenance.
Fake teak looks amazing but it's extremely expensive. 8m quotes ranged from £1500 diy to £6k
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23 June 2017, 09:23
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Flow coat gets my vote too....
Looks good Easily applied,Cheap (in comparison) ,Very Non slip if done properly,Durable,Light weight!,Well proven and easily maintained/repaired
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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23 June 2017, 09:32
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash
I'd stick with flocoat. If the non slip pattern is still complete you could just top it all up to make it match. It's the most durable thing there is. The east coast non slip is quite aggressive imo
Another soft option is specific paints. My deck is done in kiwigrip and it's amazing stuff. Not cheap though and will need some bi yearly maintenance.
Fake teak looks amazing but it's extremely expensive. 8m quotes ranged from £1500 diy to £6k
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yep the east coast stuff off the shelf is quite rough but if you speak to them they will mix what you want [finer grit]or do it yourself dry paving block sand is very fine. i didn't have any issues with the off the shelf stuff i wanted non slip and you dont result
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23 June 2017, 10:42
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Better to not use sand as you can't grind it later if you need to do any repairs better to stick with the pollygrains or sawdust flow coated over
I mixed the none slip flowcoat with normal flowcoat so it wasn't quite so rough last time I did a deck
You can buy it all from allscot in Glasgow which will save you the postage from East coast
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23 June 2017, 19:17
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wemyss bay
Make: coastline 6.0
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 150hp
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 106
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the floor at the moment is a sort of dimpled effect which to be honest is pretty slippy when its wet which i thought about sanding all the dimples off to give a flat finish then bonding some kind of mat or the fake teak etc to the floor but like you have suggested a no slip flowcoat might be the way to go.
theres obviously been a bit of fuel sitting under the console at some point as the gel has yellowed under where the old console was theres a couple of holes needing filled and some parts where the floor is just a bit scuffed up, i could fill the holes and live with it but my ocd is getting the better of me
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IT'S NO FUN IF THE WAVES ARN'T BIGGER THAN YOU!
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23 June 2017, 19:56
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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The floor looks like a cast finish (gelcoat) I had an osprey with one the water stays on top so it's always wet and slippery it needs a raised surface which grit gives or you could look at engineering fatigue matting and cover the lot
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23 June 2017, 21:25
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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I wouldn't overcoat a moulded deck like that. They look so much more professional than a ply deck. If it's just the bit under the console you could just flocoat or paint that alone. By the time you masked up and overcoated all over you may have other bits to trigger your OCD. That said I have had success with flocoat and a orange "gloss" mini roller. They are a more chemical resistant roller. Toolstation sell them. The light stipple over the top of that pattern could look very good and adds a slight non slip without having to match or maintain a pattern.
You may be able to see he finish I got on this upstand
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23 June 2017, 21:38
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: wemyss bay
Make: coastline 6.0
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 150hp
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 106
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that looks good with the stipple finish but the problem im going to have is if i leave the dimples on the floor and try and over coat it all its going to be a nightmare to get a good key for the overcoat to stick! id be worried about the flowcoat or whatever peeling around the dimples where its hard to rough up the surface.
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IT'S NO FUN IF THE WAVES ARN'T BIGGER THAN YOU!
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23 June 2017, 22:15
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...mmc=Google+PLA
Might not suit you but I use these I don't stick them down but a drop of sikaflex here and there keeps them in place soft to kneel on non slip and cheap one gets damaged pull out and replace
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23 June 2017, 22:27
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: teesside
Boat name: magic
Make: humber 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: mariner 115
MMSI: 232012453
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,557
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my osprey has a nonslip floor covering that is very much like the gritted area on non slip decking almost like p80 da disc texture it looks to have been bonded on top of the white gel coat floor and its black in colour .very neat with a non textured border of plain gell coat about 3 inches all around. looks very factory and is very non slip
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