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09 December 2009, 06:51
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Horsham
Boat name: Knot a RIB
Make: Avon Typhoon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 25hp
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 868
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Fuel Tank - What Options
As many of you know we need to get new fuel tanks for our RIB - so couple of questions
1. Would we be better off getting one 91lit tank at the rear and carry a spare 30lit(we already have this) at the front - or is this going to be far too heavy for our little Searider when full of fuel
2. Getting two 40 lit tanks for fitting at the rear
The current set up is with 2 x 40litres but they take up a lot of room, look untidy and hard to fix to the deck securely - I thought the 91lit tank would be a simple replacement option and look neater, but worried I might have overlooked other issues with a larger tank
Finally what's a good price - have seen a 91lit on eBay for £124 plus postage (MarineScene) - are there any specific "makes" to avoid?
TQ
J
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09 December 2009, 09:02
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Call me paranoid, but I like >1 tank in case the working tank gets poisoned / broken. Yes, there's the small hassle of having to swap hoses every 30L, but I can live with that for the extra security. Also means if you are paranoid about old fuel, you can rotate usage to keep it fresh. (and also easier to refuel if you end up cruiising to somewhere the garage is a 30 Yd walk up the road!)
If you got a 30L up front already, You could park a couple of 30 / 40L tanks between the transom braces (2 x 30L Hulks wedge in nicely on an SR4, so I guess a couple of 40L ones might work OK on a 5.4?) The trick with that is to have a short (like 6" - just enough to be b able to grip) stub toob with inline connector on the tanks then a "priming jump lead" that you can swap form tank to tank - reduces the amount of meandering hose rattling around on deck)
If you are really feeling adventurous, run an installed fuel line forward,with a short tail by the engine. and then swapping to the front tank becomes a simple case of moving a connector across, rather than lugging a 30l tank down the boat, which I guarantee will need to be done at the lumpiest part of the trip......
If you think that might be the way you want to go, shout, as there's a couple of small design features which will result in a lot fewer four letter words being muttered.... But donlt want to bore you with them if you go for a big single one.
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09 December 2009, 10:23
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Nectar
Make: Robinson Marine
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 2/
MMSI: 235053259
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 62
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Hi Jean,
From what you have described in previous posts would it not be a cheaper option to replace the hardware on your existing tanks?
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09 December 2009, 11:35
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Crawley,West Sussex
Boat name: Droopy 2
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90hp
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 39
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Have you thought about Barrus tanks,Chewy has some for sale on Bits and Pieces site for a good price.I have two fitted under the consol and another as a spare.Barrus tanks were original spec.on M.o.D.Seariders.
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09 December 2009, 11:55
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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My train of thought is:
If you want one BIG tank then have it built into the console and mounted at a mid point to even out the weight. By mounting it this way you will minimise water contamination as you'll be installing it as a permamant tank. This way you can still carry spare tanks if you want the extra cruising range but have a larger cruising range by the nature of the larger tank anyway. The disadvantage is that it can be invasive to fit and costs more because of this.
If you don't want the hassle of fitting a large tank I would go for the multiple tanks route with quick connectors. What you don't want to do is to unstabilise the Searider by putting too much weight at the rear. So have the working tank at the rear and store the additional fuel at the front. The disadvantages to this method are an increase in risk from water contamination and lugging a heavy tank from a forward position to the stern when your fuel runs out in the first. This might not seem like a problem, but would you want to be doing this in a F6? However this method does have a major cost advantage and is easy to install over the permanant method.
The Tanks that Davybouy mentioned look like an excellent soloution for the short term.
Where is your battery located?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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09 December 2009, 12:11
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
and lugging a heavy tank from a forward position to the stern when your fuel runs out in the first.
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I have a hose from transom to bow tank. Swapping to the bow tank takes about 30 seconds, of which 20 of them are unclipping the deadman & moving back!
Also WRT trim, you got a 75 on a boat rated for 90 or twin 40s. I bet having an extra few litres of fuel under the engine won't make much difference to the overall balance. Remember these boats were designed for portable tanks in the first place.
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09 December 2009, 12:53
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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I have a single 50ish Ltr tank which I moved forward of the console and this had quite a dramatic affect coming off waves (not ass heavy like B4). I guess if you are carrying so much fuel I would say spread forward and aft to maintain balance.
Ian
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09 December 2009, 13:04
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
I have a hose from transom to bow tank. Swapping to the bow tank takes about 30 seconds, of which 20 of them are unclipping the deadman & moving back!
Also WRT trim, you got a 75 on a boat rated for 90 or twin 40s. I bet having an extra few litres of fuel under the engine won't make much difference to the overall balance. Remember these boats were designed for portable tanks in the first place.
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That's fair comment about a longer fuel line and tapping direct off a bow mounted tank.
Although these Seariders were designed for portable tanks in mind, I doubt that they gave much consideration to the range that these craft travel in the hands of the general public. Otherwise they might have fitted bigger internal tanks.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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09 December 2009, 15:21
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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90 l takes up a lot of floor space, which isn't in great supply on a small rib. I'm with 9D2r2d2 and I think he's describing the best solution the Barruas tanks are a good option.
If you decide against it then I'd consider getting a tank made up that fitted inside your console/seats orthat straddles the deck area near the transom. you could ge 60l in a full width tank that would only be about 270mm high and the same widthe either in Ali (not Stainless) or plastic by tek tanks failing that Plastimo do a nifty fuel tank Jery can.
The fuelconnector on a fly lead is a sweet and relarble way of swapping small tanks, i've always found the tohatsu connectors to be nifty
http://www.gulfstreamshop.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=165
http://www.tohatsu.com.au/accessories-fuel.htm the connectors are the silver round type
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09 December 2009, 15:24
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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How much capacity do the flexible Fuel cells that the RNLI use on their Seariders take? And where can you buy these from?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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09 December 2009, 15:40
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: N.Wales/Southampton
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda 15hp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
How much capacity do the flexible Fuel cells that the RNLI use on their Seariders take? And where can you buy these from?
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The tanks the RNLI use on their d classes if thats what you meant take about 23 litres. Made by Avon. You can get them direct but they are pricy keep a look out on ebay.
James
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09 December 2009, 15:57
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave
The fuelconnector on a fly lead is a sweet and relarble way of swapping small tanks, i've always found the tohatsu connectors to be nifty
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I used the old Merc / Mariner "bayonet" type - they're not the smallest, but easy as **** to move around with cold / gloved hands.
Having said that, if you are alreafdy "Yam connector'ed" up, the cheapest way would be to stick with a yam system, then you'll only need a couple of in-line connectors (could cannabalise your old tanks).
I may as well dump the forward fuel line hints while we're on the subject & i got 5 mins.
On the SR I arranged it so the line went straight to the tank, and used the primer between the "transom connector" from the hose & the engine. Net result - it was a b'stard of a thing to priime if the hose had emptied - those bulbs really don't work well with air. I now have a longer tail at the engine end that goes straight to the engine connector, and have secured the tank end of the hose under the front of the console. I now use the "jumper hose" at the tank, meaning it primes really easily as the bulb is near the tank and so gets fuel relatively quickly. Also saves a messy coil of hose up fwd whnen not in use.
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09 December 2009, 17:00
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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youv'e walked into a minefield, there's loads of ways to manage your fuel, 3 way valve, two going in, one coming out, switch one way for one line and back for the other.
fuel filter, has the option of two lines in and two out added bonus of a filter, don't put anymore weight at the back, your'e transom will be low enough with everything else, tank under the seat maybe, the weight now needs to be just aft of midships.the rule that we work on is KISS, (Keep It Simple Stupid)
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09 December 2009, 19:47
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Horsham
Boat name: Knot a RIB
Make: Avon Typhoon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 25hp
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 868
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Thanks all for the responses - sounds like two tanks are the better solution
I'm beginning to appreciate nothing in the boat world has one best solution but rather each solution is dependent on preference, experience, finances and sense of adventure
J
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11 December 2009, 11:19
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J S
The tanks the RNLI use on their d classes if thats what you meant take about 23 litres. Made by Avon. You can get them direct but they are pricy keep a look out on ebay.
James
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matter of intrest the bladder sausage type cost the rnli around about £330, each with hose fitted ,last years quote.
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11 December 2009, 13:14
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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Hi jean, you probally seen them anyway but i tried different options and came back to these, picture one is 43 litres and the second pic was 30L.
East to swap over fuel lines as i used Suzuki fuel connnector (like a airline), and with the tanks places where they were made it a superbly balanced set up!!
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11 December 2009, 15:43
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt h
Hi jean, you probally seen them anyway but i tried different options and came back to these, picture one is 43 litres and the second pic was 30L.
East to swap over fuel lines as i used Suzuki fuel connnector (like a airline), and with the tanks places where they were made it a superbly balanced set up!!
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That's a nice set-up Matt. How far forward is the battery? Underseat or in the console?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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11 December 2009, 16:03
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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as far forward Under the consol as poss, Ccentre of gravity and all that
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11 December 2009, 16:28
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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So what was better balanced two full 43l tanks or the smallers ones full of fuel? I'm betting you couldn't see any difference?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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11 December 2009, 16:35
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Horsham
Boat name: Knot a RIB
Make: Avon Typhoon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 25hp
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt h
Hi jean, you probally seen them anyway but i tried different options and came back to these, picture one is 43 litres and the second pic was 30L.
East to swap over fuel lines as i used Suzuki fuel connnector (like a airline), and with the tanks places where they were made it a superbly balanced set up!!
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Very neat Matt - will be dropping the RIB down to Biffer in the New Year to take a look - one of the needs being to sort the fuel tank position - but that looks like a good solution
Many thanks
J
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