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04 December 2002, 07:44
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: winchester
Boat name: Pilchard
Make: Ribcraft
Engine: Merc 90 4s
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 62
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Fuel tanks
I have just become the proud owner of a Ribcraft 585 with Mercury 90hp o/b. Buying second hand, I had accepted that i would have to make some compromises on this, my first RIB. I have nonetheless the boat I wanted, a recent, fully serviced, 4 stroke power unit, and the jockey / bench seating arrangement I needed for the family. The compromise I had to make was regarding fuel tanks. I do not have a built in fuel tank, but rather the bulk of the stowage in the console is taken up with removable fuel tanks (I think 2 x 25l tanks) There is space to put a third, and I shall definitely be doing this. In addition, I would like to be able to carry a 'reserve' of fuel, which will have to be on deck somewhere. Does anyone have any advice / bright ideas / proven solutions to stowing additional fuel in an open RIB without having it slide around all over the place / polluting the sandwiches etc. etc.
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04 December 2002, 08:32
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#2
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Administrator
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Length: 3m +
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 7,108
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You will need to put some strong tie-down points onto the deck. You can then tie, or ratchet strap, the spare fuel cans securely in place. Don't underestimate the force created by 25 litres of fuel bouncing around in a RIB -- if it comes loose you will have a real problem.
I would also suggest buying proper fuel tanks with fuel line connectors, rather than jerry cans. Although this will cost you more, the aggravation of decanting petrol from can to can is well worth avoiding! You can also get multi-way change over valve so you can switch between tanks without getting out of your seat which is pretty useful.
For out of the way cruising you will probably find that this fuel tank arrangement is actually very useful as you can simply take the tanks to the petrol station and fill up without having to then pour it into an in-built tank (which apart from its greater capacity, is only really useful if you can fill it directly)]
John
PS Now you've got a RIB you can update your user profile!
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04 December 2002, 09:13
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: winchester
Boat name: Pilchard
Make: Ribcraft
Engine: Merc 90 4s
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 62
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Thanks John, as regards my user profile, although I announce myself as the proud owner, I have as yet only paid the deposit for the boat ! Being a superstitious soul, I am reluctant to take the definitive step of modifying the profile before actually having the keys in my hand! Will do so as soon as the transaction is all tied up.
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04 December 2002, 10:32
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: winchester
Boat name: Pilchard
Make: Ribcraft
Engine: Merc 90 4s
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 62
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"You will need to put some strong tie-down points onto the deck"
...How might one achieve this? To the best of my knowledge there is no access to the underside of the deck in order to bolt thru', and in any case, is it safe to compromise, even to this small degree the watertight integrity of the hull? Self-tappers are unlikely to be strong enough - ideas, please!
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04 December 2002, 11:30
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#5
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Administrator
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Length: 3m +
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 7,108
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Bolting through is ideal, but not always easy! I have sucessfully used screws in the past with no problems. If each tie down point has four large screws holding it in place then you should be OK.
Drilling holes in the deck isn't a major problem, but make sure you use plenty of sealant in and around the holes. I find Sikaflex is best, although it is way more expensive than most substitutes. Most hulls seem to collect small amounts of water in them eventually anyhow, which is why there tend to be drain bungs in the transom.
You might like to ask Ribcraft what they recommend. Jace, who posts here, is a Ribcraft person and may be able to help (are you reading this?)
John
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04 December 2002, 11:55
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Great Harwood, Lancs
Boat name: Tigger II
Make: Bombardier Aerodeck
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 25HP
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 626
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Hi Benjamin
Welcome to the wonderful world of RIBS
I had a similar problem on my Ribcraft 4.85. I had a 60L internal tank but always carried a 25L spare fuel tank and like John says dont go for jerry cans its almost impossible to top up at sea in anything more than a slight swell.
I used to stand my fuel tank up in front of the console and fit two ratchet straps round the tank, the console and helm seat.
One at the top and one at the bottom.
I think the console is similar on the 5.85 to the 4.85 so it should work.
I never had a problem of it coming loose even when being thrown around and it keeps the weight forward.
I would also recomend that you carry a spare fuel line long enough to reach the tank where its fitted, as John says you dont want a loose 25L tank flying round it it gets rough.
Also I personaly dont think you could have bought a better starter boat, I belive the Ribcraft 5.85 is a great boat.
Regards Gary
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04 December 2002, 12:48
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 89
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If you are looking to buy new tanks, then you should consider the Barrus MOD tanks.
Come in grey, 25 ltr, very tough, oblong shape so they stack well and are easy to carry.
Also good as step, seat, table.
Available ex mod in surplus yards.
tiger
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05 December 2002, 21:14
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#8
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Member
Country: Belgium
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 459
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dinghy
people use tow strap webbing secured by tiny bits of plastic screwed down by self tapers
they take serious abuse and will easily be strong enough to hold down fuel tanks
you can also buy stronger stainless steel ones from chandlers, have used them myself to tie down straps, visit a chandlers
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06 December 2002, 10:29
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#9
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Trade member
Country: UK - England
Town: Yeovil, Somerset
Boat name: Ribcraft1
Make: Ribcraft
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 75
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Hi All
We use encapsulated marine ply decks in most boats, due to its strength etc. You can quite easily use self-tapping screws to fix small items such as portable tanks to the deck. Just make sure you use a good polyurethane sealant (Sikaflex) when you insert the screws. We also have a GRP tank trays that fit the new style Quicksilver tanks, but as they are hand made they work out at about £45.00 each.
You can always call the factory for advice.
Cheers
Jason
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06 December 2002, 18:13
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Falmouth
Make: Tornado
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp yam
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 99
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Tanks
Plastimo make a good range of plastic tanks. we had two 65 ltre and they were great. They also have a atachment for a vent pipe as well as fuel pick up.
I have seen the fitted inside console and sit astride seats.
Whats more there cheeeeeeeeep!
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08 December 2002, 14:12
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#11
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Dublin
Boat name: wizzard
Make: REDBAY
Length: 7m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 835
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mounting tanks
I dont know if this is possible on your boat benjamin, on the Hysucat myself and Tim have successfully cut and fitted floor hatches into the deck, to enable us to pump out water from the hull when the need arises,but the advantage of a 5" hatch is it also provides access if you put your hand in to fix bolts with washers tro the deck if you are after really strong fixings,when the job is done, fit the waterproff hatch lid and mount your tank over the hatch to hide it, we are lucky though as the Hysucat has a rail system on the floor excellent for fixing seats tanks and luggage see photo you can also see one of the hatches fitted aswell , gavin
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