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27 June 2014, 16:55
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Down South
Make: Northcraft 5.8m 1999
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2012 Tohatsu MD90C
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 181
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Gelcoat/flowcoat/topcoat possible problems
Quick question if I may could not find a specific answer in searches so here goes
I'm currently sanding/abrading my deck for flowcoat orange on the sides and main deck in grey non slip flowcoat.
With the abrading I have gone through to the matting in places where the gelcoat was thin and other places I have had to do hole repairs so the colours of the deck are not uniformal.
I recieved my flowcoat from eastcoast today and did a test on a piece of jockey seat I have cut out to fit a hatch I sanded it down the same as the deck and also went through the gelcoat to the Matt in places to do a similar trial to the deck.
And one coat of rollered on flowcoat was almost see through even though it's a coloured batch.
I could see everything underneath!!!!
Is this normal or do I need to do a couple coats of coloured gelocat first to try and cover the different colours and then a final coat of flowcoat to seal it.
It almost seems I need a primer undercoat first to get the colour right.
Thanks
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27 June 2014, 17:51
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Gelcoat/flowcoat/topcoat possible problems
I had to put several coats on my console to get a uniform colour, I made sure I got rid of the surface wax with a good wipe down with acetone or cellulose thinners.
I also learnt that when rollering that if the coat was too thin then the wax couldn't rise to surface.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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27 June 2014, 17:57
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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27 June 2014, 18:43
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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I know from my own game - vehicle paint repairs - that some colours, esp reds, are referred to as 'low hiding'. Basically means that it needs a lot of coats to completely cover what's underneath. Why that is the case I have no idea.
Wonder if this is what is happening with you?
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27 June 2014, 21:45
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
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Did it come with the pigment in it or have you added it?
Rollering will put in a really thin coat so will need a few layers of gel before final flow coat layer. As said previously orange can be a bugger to cover with as you can see through it until you get a good covering.
May be better putting it on a bit thicker with a brush on the deck and using roller to get it evenly covered. You won't want to smooth a finish on there anyway or it'll be like an ice rink when wet even with non slip in it
RYA Instructor, Trainer, Examiner and Skipper
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Freelance skipper, RYA Powerboat Trainer and Advanced Examiner
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27 June 2014, 23:29
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Down South
Make: Northcraft 5.8m 1999
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2012 Tohatsu MD90C
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamster
Did it come with the pigment in it or have you added it?
Rollering will put in a really thin coat so will need a few layers of gel before final flow coat layer. As said previously orange can be a bugger to cover with as you can see through it until you get a good covering.
May be better putting it on a bit thicker with a brush on the deck and using roller to get it evenly covered. You won't want to smooth a finish on there anyway or it'll be like an ice rink when wet even with non slip in it
RYA Instructor, Trainer, Examiner and Skipper
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Hi graham
It came with pigment in it so mixture should be correct did not realise how thin a coating it would be though.
I have some clear gelcoat so looks like I'll have to get some pigment and put down layers of that first and then do a final coat of flowcoat this is just for the orange on the sides.
With the dark grey should cover easier.
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28 June 2014, 07:02
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Gel before you flow?? Not so sure... You may not get the gel to cure. Gel like to be free from air...
You are aiming for a thicker layer than paint. I find direct rolling is too thin. So I tend to spread it on and smooth it with a roller. I would use flow and then degrease between coats if second coat needed. But unlike paint gel/flow doesn't need multiple thin coats to make one thicker coat.
No experience with orange I'm afraid..
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28 June 2014, 07:56
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#8
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe
Gel before you flow?? Not so sure... You may not get the gel to cure. Gel like to be free from air...
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It'll be fine, as long as you don't try and rub it down. The next coat of gel will exclude the previous one so it cures, til the last coat with wax in will cure the surface.
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28 June 2014, 08:27
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
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Gelcoat/flowcoat/topcoat possible problems
Putting layers of gel onto each other when they are still 'tacky' on the surface to touch allows for a (all be it not fairly weak) chemical bond between the layers as well as physical bond so you get a stronger bond and less chance of cracking etc than layers of flow coat.
This is a useful characteristic when building up layers or laying up in a mold where your first layer is gel and then your laminating polyester and glass onto the back of it. If it didn't stay tacky then the gel could peel off if the physical bond was weak. Also if it wasn't a characteristic we wanted to utilise then they would add wax to it as part of the manufacturing process so it doesn't remain tacky when it dries. Oh wait that's what flow coat does, useful for your final layer where your not laying anything else on the back.
Don't be tempted to add more pigment than manufacturer recommends as it can stop the gel going off properly if you add too much or make it weaker and more likely to crack or delaminate. Go for more layers or thicker layers to hide what's below it.
RYA Instructor, Trainer, Examiner and Skipper
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28 June 2014, 18:57
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#10
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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I find working with gel coat and flow coat harder than any paint, tough to get a nice surface. And a thick layers is a must. What i do is working with multiple layers, first gelcoat and last flowcoat. When properly cured will sand and rub it down. Don't know how to get a smooth surface when applying it, it just wont happen for me....
On a few times had issues with flow coat spots left tacky, but "painting" those spots with the styrene wax( the stuff you mix with gelcoat to achieve flowcoat) has solved
the issue.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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29 June 2014, 13:06
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Down South
Make: Northcraft 5.8m 1999
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2012 Tohatsu MD90C
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 181
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Cool cheers guys
Another query what's the best grit grade should I prepare the deck with for best adhesion.
I'm currently on 60/80 grit as the deck is so lumpy and is the only grade I can get any worthwhile work done.
Should I work to a finer grit before I apply the coats
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29 June 2014, 16:35
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#12
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solent Bombard
Cool cheers guys
Another query what's the best grit grade should I prepare the deck with for best adhesion.
I'm currently on 60/80 grit as the deck is so lumpy and is the only grade I can get any worthwhile work done.
Should I work to a finer grit before I apply the coats
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80 should be fine. Think 100 is the finest recommended grit, if surface is to smooth it will not stick that well.
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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29 June 2014, 19:15
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
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As above stick with what your using as any finer and you won't get much of a key for the gel to hold on to.
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29 June 2014, 23:03
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Down South
Make: Northcraft 5.8m 1999
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2012 Tohatsu MD90C
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 181
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Awesome saves me a load of sanding then
I'll stick with 60 to 80
Thanks c-umb and ham
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01 July 2014, 21:37
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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are you changing the colour? or same colour? Im toying with a colour change. Ed @ ribraff says darker colours or white go on best, red and oranges are hard work
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