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19 December 2008, 17:36
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Glassing in console
After xmas I'm hoping to fit a single seat console. The only way it can be fitted in is to be glassed onto the deck.
Now I've never done this before and have done a search on here but with out much joy. So here's what I'm thinking of doing and please put me right on anything, PLEASE!!. Best add there is no way of screwing the console onto the deck.
Using some treated garden fence battens screwed down onto the deck. Screw the console onto the battens. Sand the hull and console where it's to be bonded. Buy some fibre glass mat (anyone any idea of what gsm to get? ) and apply with 2 inch covering the console and 2 inch covering the deck. Flowcoat over the top and then I can paint the whole deck with non slip paint.
That sound like it will be strong enough?
Few questions for those that have done it.
How many layers of matting do I need to apply for strength?
Am I right in thinking the flowcoat will seal it all in?
Any advice on doing neat corners?
When asking wife to try lesbianism should I do it over the phone, face to face or just imagine she said yes and think about it in the bathroom for half an hour?
Thanks in advance
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19 December 2008, 17:43
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#2
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,924
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JSP
Thats baisically the way I'd do it, but without the wooden pieces between the console and deck.
Is there a reason you can't screw straight down onto the deck?
The screws are only to hold it in place whilst the glass goes off so don't need to be that strong.
I'd also try to go around the inside as well as the outside.
Nasher.
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19 December 2008, 17:50
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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There's no lip at all on it, so no. The wood wouldn't be between the console and deck but in the inside of the console. But if you can think of another way mate that would be great.
I never thought of glassing the inside. At the moment there's no way to access the inside once the console is on the deck but I'm thinking of fitting a large access. Will be a fiddly thing to glass the inside but would be worth it.
Thanks mate
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19 December 2008, 18:02
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leighton Buzzard
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Definitely forget the wood and just glass it to the deck inside and out if possible. Make sure you clean and abrade the deck and console first, acetone is good for cleaning them and washing your tools after you have finished.
Richard
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19 December 2008, 18:12
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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What if it moves wail I'm glassing though Rick? Could see that being a right royal pain in the arse. Just got 5l acetone
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19 December 2008, 18:59
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leighton Buzzard
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
What if it moves wail I'm glassing though Rick? Could see that being a right royal pain in the arse. Just got 5l acetone
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If you are worried about it moving just mix up a small amount of resin and cut about 6 small pieces of glass and tack it in position (just like you would use selotape to initially hold 2 pieces of card together). If possible put them on the inside of the console for neatness. When they have gone off the console wont move when you glass it in.
Richard
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19 December 2008, 19:10
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Nice idea thanks
Do you have to have certain temperatures for fibre glassing? A the moment I'm stuck to doing it outside.
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19 December 2008, 19:53
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leighton Buzzard
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
Nice idea thanks
Do you have to have certain temperatures for fibre glassing? A the moment I'm stuck to doing it outside.
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The ideal temperature is 18 -20 deg C and I believe that below about 15 deg C the resin will not cure correctly. If you have to do it outside I would make a tent over the console and warm the inside up with a fan heater / convection heater.
Richard
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19 December 2008, 20:10
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Thanks again Richard, I think I'll look into trying to get it in doors to do it. How long does it take to go off?
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19 December 2008, 20:13
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Weymouth
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 247
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Would use 3-4 layers of CSM cloth first all round. wet it out well then get some woven cloth and undo the weaving so that you have the strands, lay them along the length of the joint then wet that out. will give you a nice curved joint similar to a fin on a surf board and will be quite strong. If you are trying to get a good corner with the Chop strand matt just stretch the mat to pull the fibers apart a little, when it is dry
Flow coat over the top
Paint
Hope this helps
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I went alongside the carrier, I survived and didnt even get shot at!!!
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19 December 2008, 20:44
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Cheers Bilbo,
Why the CSM cloth first ?
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19 December 2008, 21:14
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leighton Buzzard
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
Thanks again Richard, I think I'll look into trying to get it in doors to do it. How long does it take to go off?
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Very roughly depending on temperature resin is usable for upto 10 mins, it starts to go rubbery between 10 and 20 mins and hard in 30 - 40 mins.
Richard
I would use csm cut into long strips.
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19 December 2008, 21:41
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Thanks mate your making this allot easier for me. Any thing else spring to mind that you think I may need to know?
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19 December 2008, 22:09
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leighton Buzzard
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
Thanks mate your making this allot easier for me. Any thing else spring to mind that you think I may need to know?
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Plan what you are going to do, how you are going to do it, what tools you need to do the job and to clean up afterwards, do the job in small easy stages, dont try to rush. If you are going to do the inside then do that first as mistakes wont show and you can always grind it out and start again
Richard
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19 December 2008, 22:14
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickuk3
Plan what you are going to do, how you are going to do it, what tools you need to do the job and to clean up afterwards, do the job in small easy stages, dont try to rush. If you are going to do the inside then do that first as mistakes wont show and you can always grind it out and start again
Richard
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Your a star mate
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19 December 2008, 23:36
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Go to Glassplies in Southport. Past the hospital take second exit on roundabout at Tesco (Meols Cop Rd.) and then right after the lights into Butts Lane ->Crowland St.. On the right just under the bridge. They will give you a wee booklet describing the process.
If you want a neat job there's all sorts of stuff you need to learn. From the correct time to gel to tearing the CSM to prevent a hard edge. You'll need a few tools. Glassplies will advise you. BTW, as far as I'm aware, there's no such thing as CSM cloth. There is CSM (chopped strand mat) and various cloths, other materials and combinations.
You need to do a bit of swatting and you should practise before you set about your boat.
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JW.
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19 December 2008, 23:38
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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You've just put a bloody big grin on my face mate. All though Crowland street is some distance from me and I may break a sweat doing the 3 min travel
Cheers
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19 December 2008, 23:58
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
You've just put a bloody big grin on my face mate. ...
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I aim to please.
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JW.
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20 December 2008, 09:47
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales
Make: Southern pacific
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 etec
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 52
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I'd use 3 layers of 300gsm mat and as it's your first go i'd do the corners as described here, http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/met...glaminate.html
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20 December 2008, 11:49
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#20
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: adelaide
Boat name: tba
Make: custom
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboard,200+
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 72
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I would ensure that there are no sharp corners for the glass to go around. I would add a fillet of resin mixed with Qcell or similar, between your deck and console, it will make the glassing much easier and stronger. If you ask the glass supplier he should know what I am talking about. The more catalyst you put in the resin and the hotter the day. the faster the resin will go off.
rm
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