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Old 01 April 2009, 16:02   #21
JSP
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Well you learn somat new everyday.
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Old 01 April 2009, 16:59   #22
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JKmaxx have all the Eagle bits and then some.
BTW I live in Oban and I couldn't even tell you where BEE is!
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Old 01 April 2009, 17:11   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceB View Post
JKmaxx have all the Eagle bits and then some.
BTW I live in Oban and I couldn't even tell you where BEE is!
Like you I was only trying to help a felloe ribber! BTW BEE is in Connel.

J
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Old 01 April 2009, 18:45   #24
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What Avons does this apply to?
on a few of the very old donought redcrest type where they were in use on bluewater crusing yachts as tender and lifeboat ,for space saving on deck they could leave the stern inflated with the engine on then have the bow rolled up ,,if baffles are pressurised the wrong way it has the effect of back pealing the mating sufaces ,.. yes chewy all the rnli avons start with the bow then work to the stern or that what it says in the manual and pressure 3psi .regards mart
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Old 01 April 2009, 19:54   #25
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
As has being said you can get pressure gauges for the tubes and BMW should be able to give you the optimum pressure for your boat. The problem is that as the air in your boat cools the pressure in it will drop and as the temperature rises so will the pressure this tends to be made worse the darker your boat is as dark colour absorb more heat.

In practical terms this means if you pump your chambers to the optimum pressure whilst the boat is on the trailer, then stick it the water the tubes will then probably go soft due to the relative colder water cooling the air in the tubes. This is just an inconvenience as you should always carry a pump on board, it is just a case of putting some more air in to counteract the cooling effect of the water. When you take the boat out the water if you don’t let some of the air out of the tubes and the boat is left in direct sun light on a hot day (even in Scotland) it has been know for tubes to burst.

As a rough guide to how much pressure you want in your tubes, I pump mine to the point where if I hit the tube with the side of my fist the tube deflects about an inch, that’s when I am ready to use the boat. If it is sitting on the trailer for storage, not for towing then I make sure that at the hottest part of the day I can easily deflect the tube by 2- 3 inches just by pressing on them.

Nice part of the world you live in bit windy though.

I still smile when Billy Connolly was on about some writer in London had written a song about the mist blue hills of Tiree, when as he said its like a bl00dy billiard table.
yea its windy ok ... aye billy connolly hit the nail on the head .highest point is about 450 ft or something lol mole hill . thanks for the advice
fraz
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Old 14 April 2009, 21:42   #26
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finally got rib in water at last !shes a go er !!ha

was out tonight first time .due to being busy lambing last few weeks.any got her in water Finlay, where i launched wasnt that great didn't get her floating til we were half way out in middle of the bay lol.ay way the tubes went very soft with in seconds of being in the water plus the sun was well down ..i didnt bother putting air in as i was just going out for 15mins to test . should i put more air in tomorrow or will they swell up themselves in the daylight heat etc.

fraz
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Old 14 April 2009, 23:22   #27
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XS say to inflate Bow to Stern, and not to pump to working pressure until all tubes have a comfortable amount of air in them to avoid damaging the baffles
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Old 15 April 2009, 13:19   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraztiree View Post
was out tonight first time .due to being busy lambing last few weeks.any got her in water Finlay, where i launched wasnt that great didn't get her floating til we were half way out in middle of the bay lol.ay way the tubes went very soft with in seconds of being in the water plus the sun was well down ..i didnt bother putting air in as i was just going out for 15mins to test . should i put more air in tomorrow or will they swell up themselves in the daylight heat etc.

fraz
I'd leave them as they are and then pump up if you need to when you come to use it. It shocked me when I got my first RIB how much they can inflate in warm weather.
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Old 15 April 2009, 13:47   #29
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yes and black tubes are more prone to greater pressure difference in sunlight than grey or orange ,and they get hotter to the touch
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Old 15 April 2009, 16:27   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy View Post
The end with the engine (the blunt end) is called the stern.

Start at the bow and work back. Pointy end to the blunt end.
This will push the baffles towards the stern and will form the same shape as your end cone.
This is what we were told to do by the RNLI.
I'm sure they will be some logic behind it?
The only logic that would apply, I think, is the direction the baffles are glued in. If the glued edge is forwards and the sealing part is aft, then it makes sense that you want the baffle expanding more to the stern than the bow (hows that for parts naming?) Keeps the baffle from folding back on the glue line, as it were.

But, how do you tell which direction they glued the baffles in?


jky

Forgot to say that, when storing the boat (stays on the trailer next to the house), I deflate the tubes to sagging. On cool nights, I'll get folds in the fabric. On hot days, without adding air, they'll expand to nearly usable inflation pressure from air expansion. Which, of course, is why I deflate it so much...
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Old 16 April 2009, 19:49   #31
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Air pump in a bind?

Sorry to hijack this thread. I have a pump on order with the Rib Shop. The freight time to Florida could be a bit is there a place to buy the fixture to pump up my tubes in the interim?
Thanks
Steve
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Old 17 April 2009, 16:41   #32
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I just bought a Bravo 12 BST from Wooska.com (resellers; the pumps were sold by a kayaking/rafting outfit somewhere.)

I'm actually fairly impressed with it: reasonably fast (it's a 2-stage pump; works on a turbine until the pressure overwhelm that, then switches to a piston for the final pressurization), seemingly accurate, auto-shutoff (adjustable), and has a 2 year warranty (though I think warranty work is carried out in Italy.)

They have several models; some have their own battery; I got the one without. They also have a standard model (to something like 4 psi) and a HP model (to 11 psi - more than I needed.)

Assuming they have it in stock, shouldn't take too long to get to Florida.


jky


ps: a small air compressor or a standard scuba cylinder/regulator would both work as well; you just have to plumb it to fit your valves, and watch the pressure as you fill.
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