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Old 01 April 2009, 09:58   #1
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got rib home today some stupid questions and no doubt more to follow

got rib home today . how much air should i hav in the chambers do i wnt them hard as possible or do i leave them a wee bit soft . some one said i should leave them low coz they swell up if in water or something ,,

also where can can i get spares for an eagle gps or can u? i need the connection as its melted some how .

cherers fraz
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:03   #2
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Hi fraz
this weather is ok as it is the temp that will enlarge your tubes so watch in the summer, try contacting the maker BWM for details. As for your eagle wich is a Lowrance contact BEE electrics in Connel I use them all the time they are excellent.
Hope this helps.

J
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:07   #3
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Hi fraz
this weather is ok as it is the temp that will enlarge your tubes so watch in the summer, try contacting the maker BWM for details. As for your eagle wich is a Lowrance contact BEE electrics in Connel I use them all the time they are excellent.
Hope this helps.

J
cheers mate so i can leave them hard .. shame i was in connel all day yesderday aswell.
quick reply cheers off to try it out now
fraz
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:08   #4
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This the right one?
http://www.marinemegastore.com/produ...-SIL_08_92.htm
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:26   #5
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Why take business away from a very good local dealer with an excellent reputation!!
J
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:44   #6
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Why take business away from a very good local dealer with an excellent reputation!!
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Didn't realise I was.
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Old 01 April 2009, 10:55   #7
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Didn't realise I was.
Weel it certainly was not an April fool!!
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Old 01 April 2009, 11:03   #8
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i personaly if not in use let a bit of air out of the tubes if its going to be stood in hot weather, normally you will get a pressure drop when the boat is put in water as the air contracts a little with the cold water so you may have to top it up a little ,sibs are more prone to this than ribs ,as there is usually more of the tube in the water and tube or sponson pressure is more critical for optimum use .
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Old 01 April 2009, 12:20   #9
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As has being said you can get pressure gauges for the tubes and BMW should be able to give you the optimum pressure for your boat. The problem is that as the air in your boat cools the pressure in it will drop and as the temperature rises so will the pressure this tends to be made worse the darker your boat is as dark colour absorb more heat.

In practical terms this means if you pump your chambers to the optimum pressure whilst the boat is on the trailer, then stick it the water the tubes will then probably go soft due to the relative colder water cooling the air in the tubes. This is just an inconvenience as you should always carry a pump on board, it is just a case of putting some more air in to counteract the cooling effect of the water. When you take the boat out the water if you don’t let some of the air out of the tubes and the boat is left in direct sun light on a hot day (even in Scotland) it has been know for tubes to burst.

As a rough guide to how much pressure you want in your tubes, I pump mine to the point where if I hit the tube with the side of my fist the tube deflects about an inch, that’s when I am ready to use the boat. If it is sitting on the trailer for storage, not for towing then I make sure that at the hottest part of the day I can easily deflect the tube by 2- 3 inches just by pressing on them.

Nice part of the world you live in bit windy though.

I still smile when Billy Connolly was on about some writer in London had written a song about the mist blue hills of Tiree, when as he said its like a bl00dy billiard table.
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Old 01 April 2009, 12:44   #10
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Weel it certainly was not an April fool!!
J
Must be related to codprawn.

If you pump the tubes hard in the cold then use the boat when its warm you could shag the tubes.

To tell if you have roughly the right pressure hit them with your fist, to soft your fist won't bounce off, you want them so it does just bounce off.

I'll probably get told I'm stealing business off some one who sells gauges now....
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:07   #11
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forgot to mention when topping up with some boats its importent to start and finish with the correct tube as you can damage the baffles that seperate the tube sections ,eg , in most avons its start at the stern and move on up to the bow .
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:08   #12
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forgot to mention when topping up with some boats its importent to start and finish with the correct tube as you can damage the baffles that seperate the tube sections ,as in most avons its start at the stern and move on up to the bow .
What Avons does this apply to?
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:18   #13
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forgot to mention when topping up with some boats its importent to start and finish with the correct tube as you can damage the baffles that seperate the tube sections ,eg , in most avons its start at the stern and move on up to the bow .
Its the other way round. Bow first then work back so the baffles are pointing towards the stern.
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:27   #14
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I never knew that. So where do I start?
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:32   #15
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Bow is the pointy end, start there and work your back, you'll probably find the stern won't need any as the baffles will have pushed the air back making the rear two sections harder.
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:35   #16
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Bow is the pointy end, start there and work your back, you'll probably find the stern won't need any as the baffles will have pushed the air back making the rear two sections harder.
Interesting Chewy.
Is this practice only for Avons and for all lengths?
;cheers:
J
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Old 01 April 2009, 13:39   #17
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Bow is the pointy end, start there and work your back, you'll probably find the stern won't need any as the baffles will have pushed the air back making the rear two sections harder.
Cheeky git! I know the bow is the pointy bit. I also know the bit with the engine is called the transvestite!

What I meant was is it defiantly working from the bow back or is m chappelow right?
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Old 01 April 2009, 15:41   #18
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The end with the engine (the blunt end) is called the stern.

Start at the bow and work back. Pointy end to the blunt end.
This will push the baffles towards the stern and will form the same shape as your end cone.
This is what we were told to do by the RNLI.
I'm sure they will be some logic behind it?
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Old 01 April 2009, 15:47   #19
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I thought the round things on the side all had separate chambers?
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Old 01 April 2009, 15:50   #20
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They do.
If the sausage type things need pumping up though it will push the baffle into the next chamber in effect pumping that one up a bit too. By the time your at the stern (still the blunt end) you might not need any air.
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