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Old 14 January 2008, 23:47   #1
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Country: USA
Town: Boston
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Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Has anyone replaced rub strake/rail on zodiac?

Hi. I am thinking of replacing this on my 1979 hypalon zodiac. It's the rubber rail that wraps around the boat at mid-height of the tubes. I had to actually cut off a section because it was falling apart. Would I be getting into an intensive project here or is it pretty straight forward? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 15 January 2008, 01:03   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
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I only have experience of PVC Zodiac repairs, although the preparation is roughly the same.

See http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOHYPNEO.html for a detailed Hypalon step-by-step guide.

I think this will be a fairly major undertaking, however, given age of your boat, it doesn't have to be the tidiest job in the world, as long as it gives you a new rubbing strake to protect your tubes. Later Zodiacs (mid 80s) - also incorporated a ridged edge on the strake to reduce spray.

The rubbing strake may need to be applied in sections - partly bacause of the overall length of the strake and the fact you need to work quickly within a set time-frame for coating sections, etc. Either that or work with a friend.

You'll also need to work out if you repair this when the boat is inlated or deflated? Inflated - means you should get less distortion applying strake, however deflated has advantages in allowing you to apply an even pressure onto the rubbing strake to make a secure bond. Good luck!
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Old 15 January 2008, 12:34   #3
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Country: UK - England
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Length: 6m +
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Just my opinion, but I would have thought this was a fairly straight forward undertaking. Sticking on 'accessories' does not require the same level of expertise as making or repairing seams. I have applied a number of handles and cleats to inflatables and found it very easy. With tubes inflated hard just clean the areas involved, apply the adhesive evenly to both surfaces, wait until it is dry (20 mins), apply another even layer to both surfaces, wait until it is tacky (10 mins), then line up carefully (you CANNOT move the parts once they touch!) and push together from the centre to avoid air pockets being trapped.

I suspect removing the old fendering would be the hardest part. I understand hypalon glue softens with heat, so a hair dryer may be of help here?
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