help with correct bung

Reno · 10 December 2020, 02:39

Hi, my 'fixer upper' project has no bungs. Its an 80s (I think) zodiac pro 5.3 and the thread is quite 'fine' compared to what I'm used to. internal is 19.5mm.

If anyone can tell me where I might be able to find them, I'd appreciate it. I'm in Melbourne Australia.
Cheers

Limecc · 10 December 2020, 11:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reno

Hi, my 'fixer upper' project has no bungs. Its an 80s (I think) zodiac pro 5.3 and the thread is quite 'fine' compared to what I'm used to. internal is 19.5mm.

If anyone can tell me where I might be able to find them, I'd appreciate it. I'm in Melbourne Australia.
Cheers

It looks the same as used by Mercury/Quicksilver.

I've no Zodiac experience and can't give you a definite answer, the usual way to determine a thread is to measure it and use metric and imperial thread gauges then compare with data from Zeus tables. With pipe threads it's harder if the external thread is tapered. A clue is it's on a pipe lol.

I think the probability is that it is 1/2" BSP, 14tpi but it's a moot point when they are probably all the same on various Zodiac craft and other makes also. Just go to a reseller and get one ordered?

P.s. the Americans use NPT instead of BSP.

Last resort is to change the socket for one like this here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-19m...oAAOSwphFe32yt

Reno · 10 December 2020, 20:13

Thanks, I had thought about drilling out the thread to fit something like you show in the link, if I can't find the correct option that's certainly the easy solution. I think there may be one in Sydney so I'll try them and see what they have to add.

jakew009 · 25 December 2020, 20:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reno

Hi, my 'fixer upper' project has no bungs. Its an 80s (I think) zodiac pro 5.3 and the thread is quite 'fine' compared to what I'm used to. internal is 19.5mm.

If anyone can tell me where I might be able to find them, I'd appreciate it. I'm in Melbourne Australia.
Cheers

I messed around trying to find a matching bung before just ripping it out and replacing it. Should have done that in the first place.

Reno · 01 January 2021, 20:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakew009

I messed around trying to find a matching bung before just ripping it out and replacing it. Should have done that in the first place.

I thought these might be a standard item, but I've come to the same conclusion. Cheers.

paintman · 02 January 2021, 11:23

If you're struggling to determine the thread of something like that & you can't get a thread pitch gauge in - or see it when it's in - use a bit of plasticine pressed onto part of the thread to take a copy of the thread.
Works better with coarse threads as it's soft & you can't put much pressure on it with the gauge.

jakew009 · 02 January 2021, 11:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintman

If you're struggling to determine the thread of something like that & you can't get a thread pitch gauge in - or see it when it's in - use a bit of plasticine pressed onto part of the thread to take a copy of the thread.
Works better with coarse threads as it's soft & you can't put much pressure on it with the gauge.

The problem is finding a bung with the correct thread. They are all unbranded Chinese stuff with no specifications.

For the cost (about 3 quid) and the time to replace (about 15 mins) it really is just easier to replace the whole thing...

paintman · 02 January 2021, 12:03

Which is what I did with the lowest drain on the outer hull on mine.(Dory with inner & outer hulls).
Two screws & some sealant & job done.

But I also have a much larger metal one which drains the deck & managed to lose the metal plug for that one (I blame Mrs p for distracting me!).
Rather more involved as it passes through the both hulls & the transom & I'd need to engine crane the outboard off for unrestricted access to the outer end so easier to use an old trick to determine what replacement I needed.