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10 August 2009, 22:27
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes
Boat name: WightStuff
Make: Ribeye
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 150hp
MMSI: 235072807
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 319
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How shallow do you consider too shallow?
Being a paranoid type of guy, I tend to steer well clear of any potentially shallow areas.
Quite fancy a trip up some of the rivers along the Solent, but figure that I'm going to have to get a little less scared about going into shallower waters.
I suppose the depth shown from the sounder is from the bottom of the boat, so technically a sounder depth of a few feet would be adequate.
So I was wondering, what sort of depth do you guys consider "too shallow" ?
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10 August 2009, 22:33
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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Depends what the bottom is like - if it's sand or mud no probs - rocks are another story.
Shallow is the norm where I am - an oar or paddle is a great way of feeling your way around. My depth guage reads zero when I am still afloat - just!!!
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10 August 2009, 22:37
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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On some sounders you can put an offset in so the depth shown is below the skeg.
I don't mind taking the boat in so I can jump over the side and stand up. You'll build up confidence with time.
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10 August 2009, 22:40
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dartmouth
Boat name: Puffling
Make: Avon Rover 3.4m
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 15hp
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 404
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Checking depth..
Check a chart first, or get local knowledge
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Advanced Power Boat Instructor
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10 August 2009, 22:40
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban (mostly)
Make: Ribcraft, Humber,BWM
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboards
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn
Depends what the bottom is like - if it's sand or mud no probs - rocks are another story.
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On the other hand, sand and mud can get stirred up and sucked up with the cooling water, so a different set of problems
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10 August 2009, 22:50
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSkills
On the other hand, sand and mud can get stirred up and sucked up with the cooling water, so a different set of problems
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yes,,, sand and grit makes lovelly grinding paste,,,,makes the inside of the water pump look like new, lol,
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10 August 2009, 22:54
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dartmouth
Boat name: Puffling
Make: Avon Rover 3.4m
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 15hp
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 404
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Where you going..
You say the Solent.. where do you mean as is quite a size.. I have been a long way up quite a few shallow areas in RIBs and never had a problem personally, but just check tides in Ashlett creek and don't watch the mill pond level instead of the sea water level as you may get stuck!!
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Advanced Power Boat Instructor
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10 August 2009, 22:55
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#8
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
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"Acceptable depth" is surely related to speed, and to whether the tide is flooding or ebbing?
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10 August 2009, 23:13
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes
Boat name: WightStuff
Make: Ribeye
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 150hp
MMSI: 235072807
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 319
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Thanks for the posts so far.
So what depth on your gauge would make your concerned?
10ft, 6ft, 3ft ?
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10 August 2009, 23:16
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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Depends on the charts - if it is a nice flat area then about 8ft - you need to slow down quite a bit as it gets shallower. It all boils down to local knowledge.
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10 August 2009, 23:21
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dartmouth
Boat name: Puffling
Make: Avon Rover 3.4m
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 15hp
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 404
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Powertrim..
That is what they invented powertrim for..
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Advanced Power Boat Instructor
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11 August 2009, 00:11
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrAinZ
Thanks for the posts so far.
So what depth on your gauge would make your concerned?
10ft, 6ft, 3ft ?
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Depends what the draught is on the boat....
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11 August 2009, 07:28
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Archangel
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: ETec 225
MMSI: 235063789
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,005
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Shallow water
Shallow water is a way of life here in the Channel Islands. My depth sounder can read zero and I'll still be afloat. I use the boat hook-over-the-side technique described above all the time. Maybe one of those new-fangled forward-looking sonars is the answer. By the way, don't go to Mont St. Michel if you don't like the idea of shallow, murky water; it will give you the creeps.
Try folding paper: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gj0kyz/
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11 August 2009, 07:33
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes
Boat name: WightStuff
Make: Ribeye
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 150hp
MMSI: 235072807
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 319
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We've got a Ribeye S650, which according to the website has a draft at rest of 0.55m
I'm a little confused though, as to where the GPS/Sonar would measure the depth from.
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11 August 2009, 08:15
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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It'll be either through hull transducer or mounted on the transom.
You need to measure how far your leg goes into the water too.
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11 August 2009, 09:39
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
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I spend the first & last mile & a half of any trip in about 2-3 feet . Once you get used to it you stop worrying and you jusy go very slow. But as its all mud underneath its not to bad.
Following other boats in the channel can give very false reading as the mud is stirred up - but if a ' big' boat is in front you know they will hit bottom first !
Generally for me its only to shallow when the prop has to be out of the water to keep going!
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11 August 2009, 10:16
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mary Olwen
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: OB, Petrol, 140HP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 151
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We operate in the Humber. Shallow water is a fact of life!
Less then 1.5m sets off the alarm but you can get away with less than 1m under the keel if you proceed with extreme caution!
It's mostly mud and sand so not too much of a problem if you ground out at slow speed. The exception is the launch/recovery site which is a rock strewn mess.
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11 August 2009, 10:44
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: worcester
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 40
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I like to check out the bottom on a low spring tide and take some photos and notes. As previous posters mentioned, drive slowly and with caution and enjoy the less accessible areas of our coastline.With the engine leg up a little the draft on most RIBS is fairly minimal. Watch out for falling tides on a spring as you may be stuck for quite some time. Most of the channels in the Solant are marked. Also check out your Reeds Almanac which will tell you how many hours either side of high tide you can enter a channel.
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11 August 2009, 14:19
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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I regularly have to run in shallow water. I always consider anything more than 1 mtr as enough to full belt it. But I do know the waters I do that in well. The rest of the time, as others have said, proceed with caution and use your power trim and it shouldn't be too much of a prob. I'vwe only scraped the prop in the sand once n 2.5 years including regular beaching.
Ian
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11 August 2009, 16:51
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#20
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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The area I usually abalone dive has us launching in a tidal river, then running out to sea. Chioce of 2 launch spots: a concrete ramp in a small arm off the river, or into the river itself. Lots of skinny water. I always pull the stainless prop, and put on a (now beat to crap) aluminum wheel instead.
If I launch off the ramp, I have to get to the river itself, which is pretty much impossible at low tide, and a depth of maybe a couple of feet at high tide, over a bar of sand, pebbles, and mud. The bar itself tends to move with the flow of the tides. My transducer is just off the centerline of the hull, and has read as low as 1.2 feet or so without hitting anything (which isn't to say that I haven't hit stuff before...) With the motor trimmed way up, I sometimes have to get people out of the boat and walk/push/pull it over the bar.
The same goes for the mouth of the river (which you hit no matter where you launch), though there you can time the swell to help get over the really shallow part. High tide is generally no problem; 26' commercial fishing boats use the marina as a base (but time their arrival and departure for high tide, I think.)
The depth reading on my finder is, as far as I know, depth under the keel for the time being. I haven't set the offset yet (mostly laziness, but partly because I haven't decided which is best: display depth from the surface for diving, or depth under the skeg when trimmed in.)
Anyway, when it starts reading skinny water, trim the motor up, and go slow. And be ready to kill the motor if you hit anything unless you really dislike your current prop. And carry a spare, and the tools to swap it out.
jky
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