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24 June 2015, 12:33
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 39
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How to finish this jockey seat?
Lads I've made a double jockey seat and just finished fibreglassing it, what do I put over the fibreglass to get the smooth finish?
My other double jockey has been painted with international toplac paint as it had gone shabby and I plan on painting this one the same colour when I get the smooth finish.
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24 June 2015, 18:57
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#2
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 39
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I've tried searching but confused between topcoat, flowcoat, gel pat???
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24 June 2015, 19:04
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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How to finish this jockey seat?
Flowcoat would be my first choice.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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24 June 2015, 19:32
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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That's the mould, right?
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24 June 2015, 20:46
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny1
I've tried searching but confused between topcoat, flowcoat, gel pat???
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Top coat could be flow coat under another name, or could just be paint. Flowcoat is gel coat with wax added that means it cures in air. Gel coat doesn't cure in air. Its designed to cure when air is excluded and to be sticky when in air.
There are two ways to make a fibreglass box. The first is to use a mould - you cover the mould with gel coat mixed with catalyst. The gel goes sticky but on the mould surface goes hard as there is no air on the surface. You then apply chopped strand mat (CSM) to the gel which sticks because its sticky and wet it through with resin (with catalyst). Resin hardens in giving a hard surface. That works well for reproducing multiple of the same object.
Other way, for one offs, is to (as it appears you have) create a box out of say ply wood, cover in CSM with resin and catalyst. If you cover that with gelcoat the surface at the CSM will cure but the top layer will be sticky as its in air. So flow coat is the same substance but contains wax which floats to the surface once applied and creates an invisible air barrier causing the gel to cure.
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24 June 2015, 20:47
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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Is that the actual seat? Looks like it needs a lot of finishing and fairing to make smooth if it is. What's it made of? Or over?
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24 June 2015, 21:41
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Taunton
Make: Ring 650
Length: 6m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 110
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I'm no expert but I would get some shiny Formica laminate cut to the size of each side then polish with wax brush a couple coats of gel coat on to the laminate stick it to the sides then when cured take away the laminate and you should have a good face you can then tidy up the corners unless any one knows an easier way to make it good quickly
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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24 June 2015, 21:52
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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It's either that or start again. Buy an Argos mirror and lay up on the mirror. Gelcoat layers, then fibreglass. And like you say once you have four panels, join up and make the corners good
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24 June 2015, 22:22
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m22nly
I'm no expert but I would get some shiny Formica...
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Or a box of matches.
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24 June 2015, 22:23
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,027
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Or just go on ebay & type jockey seat pod loads available for just over £100 by the time you've bought all the gear to make one you could have bought one for the same money
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25 June 2015, 12:47
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Whitehaven
Boat name: Cerberus
Make: Destroyer 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115hp Merc 4st
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 462
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That box will fix up and could look very good.........but you have your work cut out. I did something sort of similar with a bow locker I made a while back. It was a case of build up a bit (as you have) then sand back to as flat as possible with course abrasive, then build up the low/thin bits, then sand again until you have flat surfaces and decent corner shape. Then move onto the fine sanding to improve the surface and take out deep scratches. Next build up layers of flow coat, sanding in between to keep any brush marks in check, until you have a coat thick enough to sand and polish. Then spend hours with a sander starting at around 600 grit (to clear any imperfections), moving up the grades to 1500, which will leave a dull but smooth surface. Then break out the farecla gelcoat polish in various grades until you have a smooth and shiny finish that will be very tough. I guarantee at some point you will polish through the flow coat back to glass, swear a hell of a lot, then start re-applying. This is going to take a long time, but if you are very careful and patient, it will look good. Chances are it will look OK or a bit crappy (in my experience). 2 part paint might be a damn site easier and could be applied to the smoothed/shaped seat base but won't be as tough.
Unless you really need a custom shape base, I'd buy a finished one.
Phil M
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25 June 2015, 13:19
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Many moons ago, I needed an engine box for an inboard. I bought a sheet of cheap white melamine faced chipboard from b&q, made up a mould, used decorators caulk to form fillets in the corners, waxed it all up & laid up the engine box. When it was complete, I unscrewed the mould box, binned the chipboard & the finished product looked & worked a treat. I've used a similar technique to make GRP sheet, just lay it up onto melamine board & peel it off when it's done.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 June 2015, 18:06
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Taunton
Make: Ring 650
Length: 6m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 110
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I don't think anyone should knock anyone for having a go a something. If we don't try we never know what we might be good at. Last week i reupholstered my own jockey seats as after having them for three weeks the local upholsterer decided it wasn't for them after all .
I am actually quite happy with the result and saved myself quite a few quid 😀😀😀
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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25 June 2015, 20:31
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m22nly
I don't think anyone should knock anyone for having a go a something. If we don't try we never know what we might be good at. Last week i reupholstered my own jockey seats as after having them for three weeks the local upholsterer decided it wasn't for them after all .
I am actually quite happy with the result and saved myself quite a few quid 😀😀😀 Attachment 106375
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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I don't think that anyone was knocking per se, just offering friendly advice & experience gained over years.
.....sh1t happens.......
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 June 2015, 21:39
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Taunton
Make: Ring 650
Length: 6m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 110
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I thought the box of matches may of been a little harsh may be I was overreacting
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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25 June 2015, 21:45
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m22nly
I thought the box of matches may of been a little harsh may be I was overreacting
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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probably
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 June 2015, 21:47
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Birmingham
Boat name: Sparrowhawk
Make: Osprey
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90hp 2T
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m22nly
I don't think anyone should knock anyone for having a go a something. If we don't try we never know what we might be good at. Last week i reupholstered my own jockey seats as after having them for three weeks the local upholsterer decided it wasn't for them after all .
I am actually quite happy with the result and saved myself quite a few quid 😀😀😀 Attachment 106375
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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Looks a nice job
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25 June 2015, 22:15
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#18
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Member
Country: Finland
Town: Helsinki
Boat name: SR 5.4
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Toh1 3,5 Yam 90/2S
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 919
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I would use lightweight epoxy filler(polyester filler might be as good, just don't like to work with them) in multiple layers(sanded between), then primer and finnishing paint, job done.
It will be fine, no big deal, just little work(or plenty of work if wanting mirror finnish).
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fun on a boat is inversely proportional to size...sort of anyway
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26 June 2015, 07:20
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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I think filing and fairing, then sanding is the most frustrating job in the world. I recently had to repair a flat panel that was nearly 2 meters wide and not fair. I got so peed off with waiting for filler to dry and the sanding, that in the end I just cut the panel off, used it as a template and made another one on a flat mirror. And braced it so it stayed true. Then just had to bond it and fill small edges. It took a day and a half instead of the best part of a week I'd already wasted on it.
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04 July 2015, 18:47
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#20
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 39
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Been real busy lately so only got at this today, not bad I think after 1st coat of paint in this one. Will finish Monday.
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