Humber Destroyer Manual??

[Mike B]

Just a quick question.

Has anyone got a manual / user guide for a circa 2003 5.5 Destroyer?

I'm not really bothered enough to pay for one from Humber, but if anyone has one, doesn't mind doing a scan of it (assuming it's not too many pages) it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc.

Cheers

Mike

[Sonar]

Originally Posted by Mike B

Just a quick question.

Has anyone got a manual / user guide for a circa 2003 5.5 Destroyer?

I'm not really bothered enough to pay for one from Humber, but if anyone has one, doesn't mind doing a scan of it (assuming it's not too many pages) it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc.

Cheers

Mike

You could try here you may find one.

http://safemanuals.com/index_google....sa=Search#1592

[BruceB]

Its about 28 pages but mine doesn't say anything about order of inflation.
Whats the draining hull query?

[Mike B]

Sonar - Cheers I did a brief trawl of the net and couldn't find anything.

Bruce - No specific query, would just be interested to see what they say in general - now I know that it is reasonably sizable I will stump up the readies for one from Humber.

Cheers

Mike

[BruceB]

A lot of it is about inbuilt fuel tanks, CE certification and nav lights etc, very little useful (IMO) really within the manual that would be worth shelling out more a couple of quid, and maybe not even that........

[Mike B]

Cheers - in that case I will use the money for a few pints instead!

M

[Markyboyo]

Originally Posted by BruceB

A lot of it is about inbuilt fuel tanks, CE certification and nav lights etc, very little useful (IMO) really within the manual that would be worth shelling out more a couple of quid, and maybe not even that........

What Bruce said! A few pints would be a better plan!

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Mike B

..... it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc. ...

Pull the bung from the drain hole on a cold day then refit it, that way, when the hull warms up, its contents will increase in pressure and tend to prevent the ingress of water.

I posted this, re inflating the tubes, a number of years ago and I still use the system ...

With the tube baffles I work from the rear inflating both sides. The cones will be pushed forward, the next will also be pushed forward as will the next. Finally, I inflate the front section to be harder than I'd made the others. This will pressurise all the other sections to the same pressure by forcing the cones back toward their respective sections. It also allows a bit of deflation of any section whilst keeping all the pressures the same because the cones can move to compensate.

[chewy]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Pull the bung from the drain hole on a cold day then refit it, that way, when the hull warms up, its contents will increase in pressure and tend to prevent the ingress of water.

I posted this, re inflating the tubes, a number of years ago and I still use the system ...

With the tube baffles I work from the rear inflating both sides. The cones will be pushed forward, the next will also be pushed forward as will the next. Finally, I inflate the front section to be harder than I'd made the others. This will pressurise all the other sections to the same pressure by forcing the cones back toward their respective sections. It also allows a bit of deflation of any section whilst keeping all the pressures the same because the cones can move to compensate.

We do it the other way starting at the bow so the baffles are push back.

[jwalker]

It doesn't work well the other way because you'd need to equalize the pressures in both rear compartments, which is hardly convenient, unless you connect them together while inflating them. The idea is to both ensure that all compartments are the same pressure without the need to measure the pressure and to ensure the baffles are floating, not under load and have them equalise the pressure to some extent during the air leakage and variation in temperature which normally takes place.

[chewy]

Originally Posted by jwalker

It doesn't work well the other way

Works fine for us, more often than not the tubes are pumped and hit with your fist, when it bounces off tubes are hard enough.
Getting the pressure equal in either side isn't hard.

[Sonar]

It seems that inflating the tubes is a personal choice to where one starts.
Due the the absence of directions in a manual.

Me I always started from the middle. Blew all the tubes up in part then topped them all off with extra air when i got my breath back from hand pumping like and idiot.

[Mike B]

Thanks Guys,

Our last boat had an inflation order in the manual of rears first working way up both sides to the front (as per jwalker), so I have stuck to that.

The Humber has pressure relief valves so less worried about over inflating.

Thanks for the advice on the drain - I would never have thought of that!

I definately enjoyed the pints more than I would have reading a manual!

Mike

[alystra]

Originally Posted by jwalker

...............
With the tube baffles I work from the rear inflating both sides. The cones will be pushed forward, the next will also be pushed forward as will the next. Finally, I inflate the front section to be harder than I'd made the others. This will pressurise all the other sections to the same pressure by forcing the cones back toward their respective sections. It also allows a bit of deflation of any section whilst keeping all the pressures the same because the cones can move to compensate.

I've always struggled to get pressures more or less equal. That seems the logical way to do it. I think you might have solved the problem.