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10 February 2018, 18:27
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thetford
Make: Rimini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
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Hydraulic steering
Hello.
It may just be me but how easy should it be to turn the steering wheel with hydraulic steering?
It just feels like there is a little bit too much resistance.
Are there any serviceable parts or adjustment needed ?
Thanks in advance
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10 February 2018, 20:51
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,162
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At rest, you ought to be able to spin the helm with one finger through the wheel. It will vary depending on the helm ratio & cylinder size.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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10 February 2018, 20:56
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thetford
Make: Rimini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
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Think mine needs servicing then.
Not being very technical minded it may be best to let a boat yard take a look. Hopefully not too expensive a job ��
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10 February 2018, 22:29
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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disconnect the link from the steering and try it this should tell you if its the helm and ram thats stiff or the pivot tube bush that's tight
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11 February 2018, 08:59
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thetford
Make: Rimini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock
disconnect the link from the steering and try it this should tell you if its the helm and ram thats stiff or the pivot tube bush that's tight
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I disconnected the link and the engine pivots fine. I have took pictures of the assembly as I cannot make heads or tails of what i am looking at. It looks a mess inside the console (whoever did the wiring wants shooting ! A job for another day)
If it is hydraulic, where would I check the oil level ?
Any advice ?
Thanks
I don't think its hydraulic after googling the make 
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11 February 2018, 09:13
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,162
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That's cable, not hydraulic, therein lies your problem.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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11 February 2018, 09:15
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Abersoch
Boat name: vanishing point
Make: phantom, Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200hp
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 501
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11 February 2018, 09:20
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thetford
Make: Rimini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
That's cable, not hydraulic, therein lies your problem.
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Thought so 
So the resistance is normal then for cable steering ?
Still one handed operation ish but certainly not one finger.
Are there any serviceable parts on the steering wheel hub ? Lubrication points etc or is it a sealed unit ?
Thx 
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11 February 2018, 09:22
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakeys7
Thought so
So the resistance is normal then for cable steering ?
Still one handed operation ish but certainly not one finger.
Are there any serviceable parts on the steering wheel hub ? Lubrication points etc or is it a sealed unit ?
Thx |
You can pull the cable out & clean/lubricate it. I'm not au fait with cable steering so can't elaborate.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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11 February 2018, 09:37
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Abersoch
Boat name: vanishing point
Make: phantom, Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200hp
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 501
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11 February 2018, 10:01
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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I don't know why manufacturers never put a lube point half way down the cable it would make a hell of a difference to these either that or just change to hydraulic and problem solved
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11 February 2018, 12:01
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakeys7
So the resistance is normal then...
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Resistance is Futile - you will be assimilated...
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11 February 2018, 12:07
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thetford
Make: Rimini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 75hp
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Resistance is Futile - you will be assimilated... |
Spray grease on order "Make it so"
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11 February 2018, 12:09
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,974
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Be careful freeing off a cable stiffness is often a symptom of corrosion of the inner cable which can lead to failure. They aren't realy expensive so fitting a complete new kit isn't the end of the world. About £150 quid for cable and helm will ensure your safety for years to come
Hydraulic will be substantially more expensive and it's not without its problems too, oil leaks air locks damaged hoses etc can all cause problems with hydraulic steering
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11 February 2018, 12:22
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,917
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I learned in the past that when these cables/helm units starting requiring attention it’s easier to bin it and stick in a new one, for all the cost.
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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12 February 2018, 00:12
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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Pull your cable out of the tube it runs in through the tilt tube.
When you turn the wheel the end of the cable should go in & out freely.
Resistance can be corrosion in the cable - if the sheath is damaged water can get inside the cable.
If the engine pivots freely with the cable disconnected & the cable(s) are also now free to move check that the inside of the tube is clean. On mine I found that the tube was heavily corroded & gunged up inside & also slightly out-of-round. Careful work with an expanding reamer sorted it out.
I now remove both cables (twin cable on mine) & rod their tubes through with a shotgun cleaning brush followed by patches. Lube & refit.
If the wheel is very stiff to turn DO NOT force things by using excessive force to turn the wheel in an attempt to free it off. Very likely you will damage the helm internals & have to buy a new one.
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