Hypalon has seperated from the core fabric

oti · 04 May 2009, 00:44

I salvaged a HB100 Achilles 1992. The fiberglass is fine but the hypalon tubes are to say the least in bad shape. The tender has been in the water a longtime, possibly since Hurricane Ike last Sept. The Hypalon has seperated from the core fabric and it would appear the core fabric has pulled away from the inner neoprene in several spots where there are pin sized holes.

Does anyone know if I should remove the loose Hypalon and apply a synthetic rubber coating? And should I cut away at the core fabric to patch the neoprene?

Thanks

jyasaki · 04 May 2009, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by oti

And should I cut away at the core fabric to patch the neoprene?

No. The fabric is what provides dimensional stability to the fabric.

I would say the tubes (or at least the fabric in the damaged areas) are toast.

jky

Limey Linda · 04 May 2009, 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

No. The fabric is what provides dimensional stability to the fabric.

I would say the tubes (or at least the fabric in the damaged areas) are toast.

jky

Not quite true. Delaminated hypalon can be glued back together with the correct adhesive. The delam. problem is usually as a result of ingress of water under pressure. bet the problem is near the rear /cone of the tubes. The fix is easy but takes some detailed work and the offending fabric edges sealed off with LT Sikaflex.

jyasaki · 05 May 2009, 17:00

I stand corrected, then.

However, given the apparent scope of the OP's problem (delam of inside and outside fabric coatings), I'd say replace the material, either by rebuilding the existing tubes or retubing.

jky

Limey Linda · 05 May 2009, 20:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

I stand corrected, then.

However, given the apparent scope of the OP's problem (delam of inside and outside fabric coatings), I'd say replace the material, either by rebuilding the existing tubes or retubing.

jky

Idealy yes. It all depends on the size of the damaged area. Mine was about 9 inches on each cone seam. If I had access to proffesional repair services I would have had a large patch glued over the offending areas. I do not so I did it the hard way. As it was below the waterline I finished off with Pettit inflatable anti fouling which sealed everything off from water. So far so good.

silverbk · 15 May 2009, 21:55

Can you give details of the LT Sikaflex? Which product should I buy.

I seem to having the same problem with my RIB. I have a blister on one of the cones in the rear, and another near the rear of the tube on the bottom.

I also have litt;e threads hanging all over making the rib look messy. what can be done about these?

Limey Linda · 15 May 2009, 22:47

The product is: Sikaflex-291LOT. The LOT stand for Long open Tack. This enables you to use a pallet knife/spatular ( water wetted) to achieve a smooth finish. The down side is that it takes at least 4 days to cure. Remove the hairy bits with a BIC cigarette lighter carefully. They will curl up and fall off.
T.

silverbk · 16 May 2009, 00:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

The product is: Sikaflex-291LOT. The LOT stand for Long open Tack. This enables you to use a pallet knife/spatular ( water wetted) to achieve a smooth finish. The down side is that it takes at least 4 days to cure. Remove the hairy bits with a BIC cigarette lighter carefully. They will curl up and fall off.
T.

Are you using this instead of hypalon glue? Can you describe the process you used a bit more. I have got to get this rib into shape for the season forthwith.

Limey Linda · 16 May 2009, 03:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbk

Are you using this instead of hypalon glue? Can you describe the process you used a bit more. I have got to get this rib into shape for the season forthwith.

No, you still need to peel back any open seams and glue back. Rough up all surfaces with 80 grit sand paper. Lightly wipe down with Toluene (Ace hardware or paint shop). Follow instructions for the glue you are using. Do not rush, take it slow and do a thorough job. Allow the glue to set up for at least 24 hours so it can out gas and cure. Use the Sika to seal of the fabric edges to stop further delam. Rough up, toluene etc. at least 1 inch both sides of the fabric edge. Apply Sika with spatula/pallet knife. Do not worry about any hanging bits/ runs etc. Trim them off with a pair of nail clippers after it has cured. Antifoul with Pettit if you so choose.

Rogue Wave · 17 May 2009, 12:51

once the tubes start to delaminate you are only ever gonna waste time trying to repir them unless the area is particularly small and the reat of the matrial is fine.

Can yo post some photos

silverbk · 17 May 2009, 14:51

I have taken some pics of my RIB. It's an Avon searider s4m, We have three of them. A picture is worth a thousand words. As you can see I have some delamination going on. I am not sure how I am going to attack the blisters.

http://picasaweb.google.com/cloinw/Avon#

Does all the advice still remain unchanged?

BTW we used this boat to help at a oil spill of Biodiesel. Biodiesel is a a powerful solvent and I cannot help but think that some of the Bio got on here and caused delamination.

Limey Linda · 17 May 2009, 20:21

I would consider thise areas small; slit the blistes and glue back. However, to prevent re occurance I would paint those areas with Tuff Coat.

silverbk · 18 May 2009, 00:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

I would consider thise areas small; slit the blistes and glue back. However, to prevent re occurance I would paint those areas with Tuff Coat.

I am in the process of tuff coating another RIB. Have you had any success with the product?

Limey Linda · 18 May 2009, 03:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbk

I am in the process of tuff coating another RIB. Have you had any success with the product?

Yes, great product. Do the prep. well.

Ricky · 18 September 2009, 13:41

Advance apologies for hijacking the thread, I have a similar issue to the original poster.

We have a custom built 8.5m Scorpion RIB, we used a cheap plastic tarpaulin to cover it for a few days (combined with extreme heat) and on removal we've managed to tear away part of the Hypalon coating and suffered blistering in other areas. Because the boat is custom built, the manufacturers cannot perform the onsite retubing and sending the boat back to the UK isn't an option at the moment as we're in Africa.

Performing a patch repair is also not an option as it would be seriously detrimental to the appearance.

Thus we come down to performing a Hypalon repair; firstly is it possible to replace the hypalon on the tubes in situ? Then secondly can anyone recommend someone or a company who is capable of doing this?

Thanks

PeterM · 18 September 2009, 16:34

I'm no expert , but surely a patch done properly with suitable thought to the finished 'look' will be the best (and possible only ) solution - consideration of a suitable curve/ sweep back to the blue section - also in blue to make it look ' right' ?

This could be done anywhere in the world if you can get the material / glue to you ?

yorfuoj · 27 September 2009, 09:57

another solution is to use a hypalon paint, home-made !

You must get some "crude-hypalon" the color of your tube - or close ... and toluene.
It comes in flat block - I have some in light grey from Pennel and in red from Continental.

Then you should grind it to get a light powder.
Next step is to mix both - powder + toluene - and leave the solvent work.
Add some toluene to get a paint to be painted with a small brush.

The 1st layer will leave 1/10th mm, the next one ...
Leave it dry several hours, then add another layer, and so on !

Ricky · 27 September 2009, 19:47

Thanks yorfuoj, I've now had two people contact me via the website which I think will be very useful. Thank you for the help, would have a been a lot more difficult without www.rib.net.
Now looking into the liquid hypalon option.