Hypalon treatment? - Page 2

Maximus · 01 October 2016, 21:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xk59D

any protroleum or silicon based (autoglym) product is what the data sheets claim on various hypalon repair places, Google it yourself and see.

Again, I have no experience with it but I took the safe road and bought non silicon nor petroleum based protector, I.e the pukka stuff.

I thought the exact same as you and said ach it will sand off or mek but the problem is they end up in the fabric over time and make patching difficult is the claim.

Given a set of tubes in my case is about 8k and my boat is new-ish i took it all of within 24 hours.

If ever you do need a Patch or repair,you''ll be surprised at how much surface material the Pros remove (with abrasive pad) to afford good adhesion...

I definatly don't think any sealer or polish previously applied to the surface would cause ANY problems...unless of course the job wasn't done properly...or by an amateur,who didn't know the ropes.

Xk59D · 01 October 2016, 21:50

You are preaching to converted with that train of thought but they claim as it is polymers it ends up in the fabric, this is hypalon repair documentation saying this as per my links before so they are the experts, not me.

However, the proper stuff is cheap enough so why risk it.

idsebby · 02 October 2016, 21:21

I suppose I just don't see how its chemically possible for silicone to penetrate that deep into the fabric. I have done quite a bit of hypalon repairs and a lot of rubber comes off before glueing even starts. I don't care either way would gladly change products just curious to know the science behind it. Didn't see any previous links? Will check again.

Poly · 02 October 2016, 21:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by idsebby

I suppose I just don't see how its chemically possible for silicone to penetrate that deep into the fabric. I have done quite a bit of hypalon repairs and a lot of rubber comes off before glueing even starts. I don't care either way would gladly change products just curious to know the science behind it. Didn't see any previous links? Will check again.

Well it's not impossible for fairly large molecules to diffuse through fabrics (the air tight layer is the "otherside" of the fabric), over quite long periods of time. However even if it is confined to the true surface then as soon as you take sandpaper to it you contaminate the sand paper which then contaminates the raw material you expose.

In a past professional life I used to do surface chemical analysis. Silicones were a constant source of headaches. Mould tool release agents cross contaminating parts even after attempts to decontaminate them. No scientific evidence to support it causing a problem for hypalon adhesives, but I certainly wasn't surprised when I first heard of the anecdotal reports of the issues it causes.

MatFromPoland · 02 October 2016, 21:59

I buy Aurora from EU dealer Products Archive - marineservice.lt

Courier to Poland cost 9 EUR + VAT. But I think that it can be the same price for all EU (not sure if for UK also). I could not find polyguard on the website so sent email to sales@marineservice.lt

Bank transfer, fast delivery ... I have used POLYGUARD first time, ones be on the water and now boat is in "WINTER STATE" but after wash boat used "Inflatable boat cleaner" I do not need to use any conditioner ...

Previously I used 303 Protectant each time after cleaning.

It is hard to give feedback after one time use of Polyguard (cleaning stuff I have been using since 2 years) but so far so good.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Still can't see POLYGUARD on this webpage. Here you have prices from my proforma invoice

Quote:

1 01220 POLY GUARD vnt 1 22,3140 22,31
2 01330 INFLATABLE BOAT CLEANER vnt 1 15,7025 15,70
3 Transporto Transporto paslauga
paslauga
vnt 1 9,9174 9,92

This is net value. You have to add 21% VAT to these prices.
I think that it be cost saving to order such stuff for few friends (one shipping cost)

cgoing · 02 October 2016, 22:56

Petroleum and silicone products actually penetrate the material. They will make it very difficult to get good adhesion of a patch. Even though Hypalon is abraded before gluing it can still cause problems. Also it can break down the adhesive and cause seams to fail over time if used continuously . For PVC these products will accelerate material
Degradation and discoloration.

boristhebold · 03 October 2016, 11:26

Ribshine stuff from Ribshop is really good.

Xk59D · 03 October 2016, 12:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by boristhebold

Ribshine stuff from Ribshop is really good.

Yet it looks bad on my black tubes.

I'm thinking these polishes work best on lighter colours.

idsebby · 04 October 2016, 20:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

Well it's not impossible for fairly large molecules to diffuse through fabrics (the air tight layer is the "otherside" of the fabric), over quite long periods of time. However even if it is confined to the true surface then as soon as you take sandpaper to it you contaminate the sand paper which then contaminates the raw material you expose.

In a past professional life I used to do surface chemical analysis. Silicones were a constant source of headaches. Mould tool release agents cross contaminating parts even after attempts to decontaminate them. No scientific evidence to support it causing a problem for hypalon adhesives, but I certainly wasn't surprised when I first heard of the anecdotal reports of the issues it causes.

Thanks seems like a legitimate answer appreciate that. Always been a firm believer in believe but verify

.

Xk59D · 04 October 2016, 21:27

Does that mean you will be giving your local place that recommended it a talking too then?

303 ordered here.....waiting

idsebby · 12 October 2016, 15:14

Well I will talk with him about it but he honestly probably knows more then myself. He has been building ribs since he was a kid so, although he is open to new information. Possibly he has his own explanation? We will see dun dun dun!

mwb.wright · 12 October 2016, 15:29

I can confirm 303 is decent stuff!

After the debait I used TFR with a scourer pad which took most the muck away (some minor stubborn marks needs some more elbow grease) and left the tubes looking clean but dull.

Applied 303 and boom. Colour had a very nice deep shine to it (not enough to be glossy) and feels great.

Very good stuff as everyone advised. Defiantly restores the colour back.

Note. This was on an orange SR4.

Pikey Dave · 12 October 2016, 15:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwb.wright

I can confirm 303 is decent stuff!

After the debait I used TFR with a scourer pad which took most the muck away (some minor stubborn marks needs some more elbow grease) and left the tubes looking clean but dull.

Applied 303 and boom. Colour had a very nice deep shine to it (not enough to be glossy) and feels great.

Very good stuff as everyone advised. Defiantly restores the colour back.

Note. This was on an orange SR4.

Told you so😄

Lions led by donkeys

arenouf · 06 January 2017, 18:48

Could someone explain what 303 is and from reading the threads, what to protect the orange tubes with afterwards ???

Xk59D · 06 January 2017, 18:58

The 303 is the protector, can get it in UK on amazon or maybe ebay I assume.

https://shop.inflatableboatparts.com...ger-spray.html

arenouf · 06 January 2017, 20:46

If 303 is the protector,,what does the cleaning?

Xk59D · 06 January 2017, 21:25

Search the forum for tube cleaner, you will have hours of reading.

TFR, rib revive, rib clean, polymarine inflatable cleaner yada yada.

arenouf · 07 January 2017, 09:00

I did try that. Put tube cleaner in the search box and then tried both posts" and threads" but no real joy. What am I doing wrong? And thank you

Poly · 07 January 2017, 10:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by arenouf

I did try that. Put tube cleaner in the search box and then tried both posts" and threads" but no real joy. What am I doing wrong? And thank you

Not sure where you are searching but in the app I think the search only works in the current sub forum - on the Web site you should find loads of threads...

Xk59D · 01 July 2017, 20:11

sorry to bump an older thread.

i finally got to try the 303 today and i'm still not impressed, i have no idea why but i can't get my tubes uniform looking.

i purposely used polymarine cleaner today with a scouring pad very lightly to try and get the old polish off, applied 3 coats of 303 whilst buffing in and it still looks crap in places. maybe i need to get tsr and a sponge in a few times to get the older polish/streaks off????

if anyone is near glasgow who knows how to best polish black to a proper uniform look i'll pay you to do it!