In the searider club, but is it seaworthy?

Shrimpy · 08 July 2013, 20:07

After a 13 hour, 600 mile round trip I've come back with my first rib, an Avon sr4m. Not the cleanest I wouldnt have though but think I paid a reasonable price and need some input on the dodgy parts that I've found.
First thing that needs doing is the trailer. The 25mm steel box section bunks are bent and badly corroded, an easy replacement and over the next few days I'll be searching the net for suitable materials. The trailer has a centre roller which the boat rests on but the front front roller is a fair distance from being in contact, I'm hoping that lifting and re-aligning the bunks will sort this out by dropping the front down?, tried to show the problem in the picture -

Second of all, a patch (one of two) on the side of the hull, feel rock solid but i it ok?

Peeling patch, could this just be fixed with some hypalon glue?

Is this fixable? and if so, how? (gelcoat filler?)

And the last pic is the worst, looks and feels solid but is it seaworthy like this for now before winter when I could do something with it?

Everthing else looks to be fine, cosmetic bits e.g corner of non slip pad peeling and needs a re-glue.

Many thaks in advance for any help/advice.

whisper · 08 July 2013, 20:22

Dude

Thats a lot of work right there

but we love a project

1, Have a good feel around the deck and check for rooten areas, I can't see the console but if it unbolts, remove it.

2, launch the rib on an area of ground where you are going to do the work, it needs to either covered or dry.

3, flip it over and have a really good look for water penetration into the transom. Also check that sand hasn't worn the mat away, it should be rock solid.

4, If you still feel happy, learn how to fibreglass and repair the damage like for like.

5, Learn how to use gelcoat, then use the gelcoat to build up the layers and then use flowcoat for the final layer.

6, Sand with wet and dry then polish.

I have the gelcoat code for that if you need it

whisper · 08 July 2013, 20:26

Thinking about it, the deck should be fine as it should be a deluxe.

More pics please

Shrimpy · 08 July 2013, 20:35

The transon looks and feels fine and strong, the deck is solid with no repairs, doesnt flex at all, In my view both parts are ok. What your saying is that the hull is not in good enough condition for launching in its state now?

Shrimpy · 08 July 2013, 20:44

More pics (top half)

whisper · 08 July 2013, 20:52

Yeah thats a deluxe deck

No you can't launch it now, I guess its been out of the water for a while so don't get it any where near salt water until the repair has been done.

It won't take long in this weather, I did mine in the winter

whisper · 08 July 2013, 20:54

How's the console fixed down? screws and sealant?

I think it's an Outhill console

ShinyShoe · 08 July 2013, 20:55

Well at least you don't need to sand off the old gel coat!

Folks like whisper will want to get your boat back to as new or better. Rightly so. But I think you are saying can you get it in the water tonight and worry about makign it perfect in the closed season.

So:
Trailer - not going to affect the boat getting in the water or not.
Fibre glass patches. Not pretty but if they are solid. Give them a good tapping with a rubber mallet? Then just worry about it when time allows. Needs ground back and re-gel coated at least.
Hypalon patch is it holding air? Soapy water test. If its holding then if hypalon glue will stick you are sorted. If its not holding I think the advice is usually to replace the patch.

Bottom of the transom at the drain hole. That bits probably not load bearing. If you needed a really quick fix provided the substrate you are adding it to is sound and dry p45 body filler it. Sort it properly in winter.

Bottom... thats a bigger task and I don't think you want to put it in the water with fibres visible as resin is not waterproof so will slowly absorb water and then far slower get rid of it. Best bet would be flow coat.

Tim M · 08 July 2013, 21:22

Indeed - if you just want to get out and enjoy the sun, bung something (gelcoat filler or similar) in hole by the flooding hull hole and get out there and enjoy it. None of those repairs are going to cause the boat to sink!

Shrimpy · 08 July 2013, 21:36

Bigger job than i expected but there we go. Am I right in thinking that a rub down with 40 grit and applying the flowcoat so that no resin/mat is showing then a fine sanding would make the hull waterproof? 2 more questions, roller or brush application and how thick would the flowcoat need to be?

ShinyShoe · 08 July 2013, 21:49

Someone will be along shortly. But this is what I'd do:

Pressure wash it really well upside down.
Dry it off
Sand with p80 (its already had plenty of P40 action to get in that state!!)
Clean with acetone
Apply flow coat with a brush and roller it to reduce streaks. Beware it will eat the roller. As its sloped you may need to add something the increase the thickness to stop it running.
Let it cure
Lightly sand with P120/180.
Apply a second layer of flowcoat
You'll not get it flat like you want it!! You could spend time going down the grades of paper to get it smooth. I suspect you'll take off at least half of what you put on doing that so I'd make do with an imperfect finish for now and return to it over winter.

Someone will be along to say I'm wrong and (a) you should gel coat it and (b) you can flow coat smooth (c) you need x mm of gel. I say to them... ...bung some on and get on the water!

whisper · 08 July 2013, 21:52

Or take it to Mike Whitham, Osprey ribs, he's up your way?

Chris Caton · 08 July 2013, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by whisper

Or take it to Mike Whitham, Osprey ribs, he's up your way?

Mike is a top bloke, he's busy just now sorting my SR4

whisper · 08 July 2013, 22:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Caton

Mike is a top bloke, he's busy just now sorting my SR4

It wouldn't take him long, but I still think it needs to be done properly, that hull looks very rounded, worn away by lots of contact with sand and such like.