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19 July 2024, 17:24
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Keeping the outboard straight while trailering
I would like to keep the outboard straight while trailering the boat. It is the 75hp Yamaha 2. I have tried a couple of things at the engine end that did not work. I am thinking of somehow lashing the steering. Any one know the best way to keep it straight or indeed lash the steering wheel. I want it to be simple and quick if possible
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19 July 2024, 17:27
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Consett
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 42
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Zero feed back steering.
My friend uses a crook lock on his steering wheel wedged into the side of the boat.
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19 July 2024, 17:32
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,927
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Why do you need it central? theres no issue with it lying on its lock stops
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19 July 2024, 17:33
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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I have normal cable steering but have nothing to wedge the crook lock to. I think I might have just worked out a way with a luggage strap. I will report back tomorrow
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19 July 2024, 17:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken
Why do you need it central? theres no issue with it lying on its lock stops
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I have a rear seat with 2 back rests and the hood of the engine has to go between the two. It then flops to one side and jiggers about on the back rest and wears a bit on the hood. The rear seat I fitted was designed for the boat but sadly they did not think about this. If can hold it straight and pad a bit between the back rests it should be fine. I need to keep it straight though.
I think I can secure the wheel with a strap to the hand holds on the console.
I have just covered the boat up from a day out so will post some pics tomorrow
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19 July 2024, 18:38
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,053
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I use a transom saver that keeps the engine mostly straight, and it doesn't flop around. Biggest benefit is it helps unload part of the load to the trailer and off the transom.
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20 July 2024, 08:52
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallribber
I have a rear seat with 2 back rests and the hood of the engine has to go between the two. It then flops to one side and jiggers about on the back rest and wears a bit on the hood. The rear seat I fitted was designed for the boat but sadly they did not think about this. If can hold it straight and pad a bit between the back rests it should be fine. I need to keep it straight though.
I think I can secure the wheel with a strap to the hand holds on the console.
I have just covered the boat up from a day out so will post some pics tomorrow
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When the engines are supplied new in their crate they have a securing bracket bolted to the saddle to restrain them during transport. It bolts to the string arm so no use for your purpose but you could make a modified bracket similar to the card in the 2nd picture would only tack seconds to screw on & the engine is then solid & no load on steering cable or hydraulics
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20 July 2024, 11:17
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken
When the engines are supplied new in their crate they have a securing bracket bolted to the saddle to restrain them during transport. It bolts to the string arm so no use for your purpose but you could make a modified bracket similar to the card in the 2nd picture would only tack seconds to screw on & the engine is then solid & no load on steering cable or hydraulics
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Now that is an excellent Idea. I will see if my Outboard has those holes.
Thanks
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20 July 2024, 11:17
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Farnborough
Boat name: Narcissus
Make: Cobra
Length: 7m +
Engine: Optimax 225
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
I use a transom saver that keeps the engine mostly straight, and it doesn't flop around. Biggest benefit is it helps unload part of the load to the trailer and off the transom.
![](https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/r/i/rid732538_r1_1000.jpg)
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How much load do you think the transom & bracket assembly is taking when you're running hard bouncing around in the slop?
Don't get me wrong, I think they're a useful thing for making sure the engine stays up while trailing, especially on a manual tilt engine, but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.
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20 July 2024, 11:21
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt
How much load do you think the transom & bracket assembly is taking when you're running hard bouncing around in the slop?
Don't get me wrong, I think they're a useful thing for making sure the engine stays up while trailing, especially on a manual tilt engine, but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.
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That. Exactly that.
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20 July 2024, 13:20
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,109
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In addition to all that, unless the boat is ratcheted & cinched to within an inch of its life to the trailer, it’s inevitable that the boat will move in relation to the trailer when on the road. Tying the leg to the trailer will transfer any movement between hull & trailer directly to the leg, in effect defeating the point of having the transom saver in the first place. Much better to have the engine secured to the hull imho.
As usual, this is only my take on things and could be complete b0110x.
This is my solution
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20 July 2024, 13:55
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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This is the space I am working with so I think Kens solution seems the best.
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20 July 2024, 13:56
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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I also have to wire a stop switch to stop it going too far up.......... Yes I know I bought the wrong back seat
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20 July 2024, 17:42
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#14
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt
~ but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.
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They are completely different loads at different angles. Maybe it is a placebo, but with a spring built into the transom saver it sure can't hurt. No more bent engine lift stops from bouncing down the road.
With a SIB towing down the road it does put a lot of load onto the transom. The "Beer Can Effect" will work against the attachment points.
As to boat movement...just NO! Strap that baby down tight, and it shouldn't be moving.
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23 July 2024, 16:06
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Well I have had another look at this issue and while Kens idea was excellent, for my actual set up it would be a faff to put on and off each time. Even if I left some stainless or similar studs sticking out and used wing nuts. Access here is very tight. For now I have gone with the strapping the steering wheel which was actually quite quick and seems to be holding it straight. I will experiment when next out.
I also need to be bold and gut a chunk out of the seat back and cover it with stainless or similar so that the outboard can go up further. I think I will do this but I need a little more time to pluck up courage.
This is the solution so far to test out for the keeping straight
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23 July 2024, 20:33
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London/Oxford
Make: Ribcrafts
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp/2x115hp
MMSI: 235090215
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,247
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24 July 2024, 00:29
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: suffolk
Boat name: not yet
Make: Gemini
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallribber
Well I have had another look at this issue and while Kens idea was excellent, for my actual set up it would be a faff to put on and off each time. Even if I left some stainless or similar studs sticking out and used wing nuts. Access here is very tight. For now I have gone with the strapping the steering wheel which was actually quite quick and seems to be holding it straight. I will experiment when next out.
I also need to be bold and gut a chunk out of the seat back and cover it with stainless or similar so that the outboard can go up further. I think I will do this but I need a little more time to pluck up courage.
This is the solution so far to test out for the keeping straight
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What about a jack plate ,some push the engine back 6" from the transom ! not sure about logic or reasoning ,for me just a practical space gainer but maybe theres other performance based theorys that may help ?? ,reckon your chinese friend can supply for 2/300 £ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354925295...Bk9SR5qG4aGcZA
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24 July 2024, 04:58
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJL
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Those only work on hydraulic steering mine is cable. I need to lock both directions
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24 July 2024, 05:00
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Colchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orwell boy
What about a jack plate ,some push the engine back 6" from the transom ! not sure about logic or reasoning ,for me just a practical space gainer but maybe theres other performance based theorys that may help ?? ,reckon your chinese friend can supply for 2/300 £ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354925295...Bk9SR5qG4aGcZA
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Mmmmmm I think that is a sledge hammer to crack a nut
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24 July 2024, 05:58
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: teesside
Boat name: magic
Make: humber 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: mariner 115
MMSI: 232012453
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,538
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seat backrests right up against the transom ![facepalm](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/facepalm.gif)
well designed
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