Keeping the outboard straight while trailering

[smallribber]

I would like to keep the outboard straight while trailering the boat. It is the 75hp Yamaha 2. I have tried a couple of things at the engine end that did not work. I am thinking of somehow lashing the steering. Any one know the best way to keep it straight or indeed lash the steering wheel. I want it to be simple and quick if possible

[Stewy]

Zero feed back steering.

My friend uses a crook lock on his steering wheel wedged into the side of the boat.

[beamishken]

Why do you need it central? theres no issue with it lying on its lock stops

[smallribber]

I have normal cable steering but have nothing to wedge the crook lock to. I think I might have just worked out a way with a luggage strap. I will report back tomorrow

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Why do you need it central? theres no issue with it lying on its lock stops

I have a rear seat with 2 back rests and the hood of the engine has to go between the two. It then flops to one side and jiggers about on the back rest and wears a bit on the hood. The rear seat I fitted was designed for the boat but sadly they did not think about this. If can hold it straight and pad a bit between the back rests it should be fine. I need to keep it straight though.

I think I can secure the wheel with a strap to the hand holds on the console.

I have just covered the boat up from a day out so will post some pics tomorrow

[Peter_C]

I use a transom saver that keeps the engine mostly straight, and it doesn't flop around. Biggest benefit is it helps unload part of the load to the trailer and off the transom.

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by smallribber

I have a rear seat with 2 back rests and the hood of the engine has to go between the two. It then flops to one side and jiggers about on the back rest and wears a bit on the hood. The rear seat I fitted was designed for the boat but sadly they did not think about this. If can hold it straight and pad a bit between the back rests it should be fine. I need to keep it straight though.

I think I can secure the wheel with a strap to the hand holds on the console.

I have just covered the boat up from a day out so will post some pics tomorrow

When the engines are supplied new in their crate they have a securing bracket bolted to the saddle to restrain them during transport. It bolts to the string arm so no use for your purpose but you could make a modified bracket similar to the card in the 2nd picture would only tack seconds to screw on & the engine is then solid & no load on steering cable or hydraulics

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by beamishken

When the engines are supplied new in their crate they have a securing bracket bolted to the saddle to restrain them during transport. It bolts to the string arm so no use for your purpose but you could make a modified bracket similar to the card in the 2nd picture would only tack seconds to screw on & the engine is then solid & no load on steering cable or hydraulics

Now that is an excellent Idea. I will see if my Outboard has those holes.

Thanks

[Matt]

Originally Posted by Peter_C

I use a transom saver that keeps the engine mostly straight, and it doesn't flop around. Biggest benefit is it helps unload part of the load to the trailer and off the transom.

How much load do you think the transom & bracket assembly is taking when you're running hard bouncing around in the slop?

Don't get me wrong, I think they're a useful thing for making sure the engine stays up while trailing, especially on a manual tilt engine, but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by Matt

How much load do you think the transom & bracket assembly is taking when you're running hard bouncing around in the slop?

Don't get me wrong, I think they're a useful thing for making sure the engine stays up while trailing, especially on a manual tilt engine, but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.

That. Exactly that.

[Pikey Dave]

In addition to all that, unless the boat is ratcheted & cinched to within an inch of its life to the trailer, it’s inevitable that the boat will move in relation to the trailer when on the road. Tying the leg to the trailer will transfer any movement between hull & trailer directly to the leg, in effect defeating the point of having the transom saver in the first place. Much better to have the engine secured to the hull imho.
As usual, this is only my take on things and could be complete b0110x.
This is my solution

[smallribber]

This is the space I am working with so I think Kens solution seems the best.

[smallribber]

I also have to wire a stop switch to stop it going too far up.......... Yes I know I bought the wrong back seat

[Peter_C]

Originally Posted by Matt

~ but "transom saver" is utter BS. The shock loads a transom takes when you're out on the water pushing hard are absolutely massive.

They are completely different loads at different angles. Maybe it is a placebo, but with a spring built into the transom saver it sure can't hurt. No more bent engine lift stops from bouncing down the road.

With a SIB towing down the road it does put a lot of load onto the transom. The "Beer Can Effect" will work against the attachment points.

As to boat movement...just NO! Strap that baby down tight, and it shouldn't be moving.

[smallribber]

Well I have had another look at this issue and while Kens idea was excellent, for my actual set up it would be a faff to put on and off each time. Even if I left some stainless or similar studs sticking out and used wing nuts. Access here is very tight. For now I have gone with the strapping the steering wheel which was actually quite quick and seems to be holding it straight. I will experiment when next out.

I also need to be bold and gut a chunk out of the seat back and cover it with stainless or similar so that the outboard can go up further. I think I will do this but I need a little more time to pluck up courage.

This is the solution so far to test out for the keeping straight

[CJL]

Try these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9QMT9...roduct_details

They work on our 150hp.

Chris

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by smallribber

Well I have had another look at this issue and while Kens idea was excellent, for my actual set up it would be a faff to put on and off each time. Even if I left some stainless or similar studs sticking out and used wing nuts. Access here is very tight. For now I have gone with the strapping the steering wheel which was actually quite quick and seems to be holding it straight. I will experiment when next out.

I also need to be bold and gut a chunk out of the seat back and cover it with stainless or similar so that the outboard can go up further. I think I will do this but I need a little more time to pluck up courage.

This is the solution so far to test out for the keeping straight

What about a jack plate ,some push the engine back 6" from the transom ! not sure about logic or reasoning ,for me just a practical space gainer but maybe theres other performance based theorys that may help ?? ,reckon your chinese friend can supply for 2/300 £https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354925295...Bk9SR5qG4aGcZA

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by CJL

Try these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9QMT9...roduct_details

They work on our 150hp.

Chris

Those only work on hydraulic steering mine is cable. I need to lock both directions

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by Orwell boy

What about a jack plate ,some push the engine back 6" from the transom ! not sure about logic or reasoning ,for me just a practical space gainer but maybe theres other performance based theorys that may help ?? ,reckon your chinese friend can supply for 2/300 £https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354925295...Bk9SR5qG4aGcZA

Mmmmmm I think that is a sledge hammer to crack a nut

[beerbelly]

seat backrests right up against the transom
well designed