Light Board Removal - Making life easier

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Peter_C

I just do not understand why across the pond they remove a "light bar" let alone what is the purpose of a light bar??

Peter - many of the newer trailers (especially the larger ones) do come with permanently fitted lights. I am sure genuinely waterproof lights was one of the enabling factors, but the need for manufacturer to actually supply lights at all is only a recent change (so price would usually not include the light board until the recent regs).

A removable light board might provide some cost benefit for someone with multiple trailers who switches it between. I suppose it also provides a degree of security against unprepared thieves - they’ll need a light board with them or risk drawing the attention of the cops. I think these are edge cases though and if I was buying a new trailer it would have permanently installed lights.

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by smallribber

Zero because if that happens after many years just buy a new light board for about £20

I haven't dunked the light board. I've dunked the cable. It's your cable that will fail. You can't make it immersion proof because the sockets aren't designed that way. Are you using tinned 7 core?

When the cable needs replaced you can't just go to halfrauds and get a new one. Because you made it fit the trailer.

If the lighting board failed (as Poly says they seem to eat bulbs) again the cable.length is no longer standard.

I'm all for permeant lighting.

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by smallribber

These are very good but quite big and if you have no where to fit them on the actual trailer they are quite big on the light board

You wouldn't fit them on the trailer board. The board will be in the way of the boat.

If the overhang and height can be got round... Creating a mounting point ain't that tricky...

[jeffstevens763@g]

how many feel any aspect of getting your rig in and out the water is a FAFF if I thought it was I would take up golf but then that's a good walk spoilt OMO

[Allye]

Certainly to me it feels as though you are trying to find solutions to problems that don’t really exist! In the grand scheme of a day/half day boating, the 2min cable coil and board removal isn’t a huge hurdle.

Having said that, those wireless lights look very good, I’d hazard a guess charging them might get boring though.

[HDAV]

Originally Posted by smallribber

It takes loads more than 30 seconds to take off the cable, wind it all up and then do the reverse on return. Next time time it. As for the theory about corrosion in the plug end of the cable it just is not a problem.

Flick flick flick pull.... done why would you wind it up? 3 wraps round the frame is plenty loop slack round jockey and plug in.... the light bar arms take longer....

[smallribber]

Well I went out yesterday with my wife (whos job is the light board) and she was very pleased that she dis not have to remove the cable. She said it saved her a lot of time and effort.

By the way havn't been to Halfords in years Ebay and Amazon have all I need

[Limecc]

Don't know why anyone still uses old 7 pin electrics. 13 pin connectors are more reliable and should survive dunking better (but I still wouldn't do it).

[Matt]

I like this and have had it on my todo list for a while. It also lets you run the cable tidily inside the trailer chassis if you choose, or have it clipped tidily to the outside - a pro job all round.

The only think I'd change would be that I would use a proper waterproof connector with a sealed cap on the trailer board end. I can't find the exact connector I'm thinking of right now, but something like this is what I'm thinking : https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/indus...ctors/8051725/

[treerat]

Oddly enough my galaxy trailer arrived with a socket in the light board and a holder for the plug behind the wheels.

It works well when launching, I'm lucky that the size and shape means I don't submerge that far up and if i did I'd be moving the holder up to the jockey wheel as it'll last about 10 mins in the salty stuff.

There was a chap with the rechargeable ones the weekend, they did look great and he loves them, I like teh ide aof them, but guarantee the day we decide to whip out for a bit they'll be dead as it was unplanned so not charged.

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by Limecc

Don't know why anyone still uses old 7 pin electrics. 13 pin connectors are more reliable and should survive dunking better (but I still wouldn't do it).

Well if you have 4 tow vehicles all wired with 7 pin plugs and 11 Trailers all with 7 pin plugs... I will stick to 7 pin

[pilotwillie]

Bigplumbs is definitely back
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

[Iankristy]

Originally Posted by pilotwillie

Bigplumbs is definitely back
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Hope so [emoji23]

[charliee]

I just remove mine altogether, it takes a couple of minutes and I alway end up waiting for something or someone, even if it’s the bearings to cool off so they don’t suck in water.
I bought a folding LED board from SBS and it’s been the best I’ve had.

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by charliee

I just remove mine altogether, it takes a couple of minutes and I alway end up waiting for something or someone, even if it’s the bearings to cool off so they don’t suck in water.
I bought a folding LED board from SBS and it’s been the best I’ve had.

Folding board. Now that is interesting. Should save the head lining in your car getting damaged.

Also I think I should point out that the Rib and Sibs I am talking about in this thread are on the small side with smaller trailers and hence very little can be done standing up and to remove the wire means sitting down sort of under the tubes on the usually wet and messing ground. I think with larger ribs the job may indeed be easier.

[Fender]

Originally Posted by pilotwillie

Bigplumbs is definitely back
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

He's like a secret agent with multiple identities

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by smallribber

Also I think I should point out that the Rib and Sibs I am talking about in this thread are on the small side with smaller trailers and hence very little can be done standing up and to remove the wire means sitting down sort of under the tubes on the usually wet and messing ground.

Surely you didn’t kneel down to run it along the trailer under tubes ? If you did..I can now understand why you tried to make your life easier

However ..try running it over the transom..along inside the boat .. if you wish you can pass it under a thwart for extra security but I don’t bother. Pass it through the bow strop loop which ties the boat to the trailer then wrap it twice round the jockey wheel post which keeps everything tight so it doesn’t flap..and job is done.

Its even easier if you have a SIB with safety ropes along the tubes..just pass the cable through every second safety rope loop..it never falls off as it can’t.

Both methods take the same time as walking the length of the boat .. involves no bending or crawling along wet ground ...which is why folks are thinking you are making mountains out of mole hills.

[Ferryman]

Hayling Island has its own rules, I spent 30 years towing boats around with no light board and no problems.
The police weren’t bothered either! [emoji41]

[Matt]

For a small rib, just as Mr Gurnard says. For big stuff, I like hard wired.

We need a thread about how to drill holes, next.
Is The gArfish still here?

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Matt

Is The gArfish still here?

Missing in action sadly... he'd love smallribber