Locker lock ideas

[SteveHall]

Has anyone seen a latch that would work for the ski lockers of my Ballistic?

They open inwards, the hinge is on the inside edge. The flat area at the end of the locker would be the idea place to put a latch but open to ideas.



I am about to get the seats re-trimmed so now would be a time for me to install something.

I am not fussed about anything that locks but sick of doing MOB's for items that fly out the lockers when they open whilst getting some air.

[jeffstevens763@g]

any good Steve about a fiver each

have a look at seascrew ltd loads of gear on there prompt service too

[SteveHall]

This is my last option but would still need some modification as the catch wouldn't work like that as the side of the seat is foam.

Id ideally like something as flush as possible so I dont keep catching my legs when walking around

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by SteveHall

This is my last option but would still need some modification as the catch wouldn't work like that as the side of the seat is foam.

Id ideally like something as flush as possible so I dont keep catching my legs when walking around

why not heavy duty velcro then stitched to the cushion you can buy curved needles and sow though.

[SteveHall]

Another good idea for the pool - Thanks!

[jyasaki]

Something that locks like a toolbox lid should work:

Sears.com

Not saying that model, but something similar (and preferably in stainless, if possible.) Lock goes in the body of your seat base, and an L- or O- shaped catch on the seat bottom for the hasp to go into when locking.

jky

[SteveHall]

Do you have a part number of what you found jky? The link doesn't give me a specific item.

[ribber]

Put in some sexy stainless steel air vents allowing through ventilation, negates the need to open to air/dry.

[boristhebold]

I have similar on my cobra rib but they never fly open when airbourne as there is a certain resistance with the edge of the cushion and the tube.

My thoughts are;

1. After you get them re upholstered try shifting slightly the position where they attach from the bracket to the seat so that you get some slight pressure from the tubes which may be enouth to keep them down, you might also want to stick a small strip of hyperlon where they touch the tubes as a rubbing strip to prevent wear.

2. Alternatively Velcro as someone else suggested might be an idea, probably need some strong glue, you only want them to not fly open as opposed to being strongly shut.

3. Perhaps a length of bungee type of cord fastened on the inside that stretches enouth to allow access but is taught enough to stop them flying open.

[Poly]

Or something like this added to the new cushion:

3 Black Boat Cover Bungee Shock Cord Clip Loops w Knobs "Stayput" Tie Down | eBay

[jeffstevens763@g]

Get new cushions made as a force fit with Velcro stitched on the cushion but not on the fibreglass then you have a back up plan if they start to open again or have press studs sown on instead of Velcro (Velcro better)

Cheers

[gtflash]

I don't like Velcro. My old scorpions back seat worked with Velcro for a while then it became a balloon with near miss mob. Having said that I am faced with almost identical dilemma. Trying to decide if fabric/foam interference is enough or I may ask upholsterer to leave a sunken recess and fit one of these. Means the upholstery will have a circle in it which mostly worries me about water ingress under lid.

MINI Slam Latch - C-Quip

[gtflash]

Originally Posted by gtflash

I don't like Velcro. My old scorpions back seat worked with Velcro for a while then it became a balloon with near miss mob. Having said that I am faced with almost identical dilemma. Trying to decide if fabric/foam interference is enough or I may ask upholsterer to leave a sunken recess and fit one of these. Means the upholstery will have a circle in it which mostly worries me about water ingress under lid.

MINI Slam Latch - C-Quip

You could out one of those in rear face. They come with a l shaped bracket for catch to catch on. Very neat range at cquip

[SteveHall]

Due to time, and ease I have decided just to go with one of these on the wall of the locker.



And the keep mounted on the lid.

[jyasaki]

Sorry for the delay, Steve;
The attached image is what I meant:




jky

[Phil M]

I have a front locker lid held down with a length of bungee. I drilled 2 holes in the lid and passed a length of cord through and tied knots. The loop then stretches over a plastic mushroom I made. You could use a few small then a large plastic or steel washer instead of the mushroom.

Second option is a tab on the cushion with a press stud that goes onto the mating half screwed to the locker. I have both as I made the hatch long before the cushion arrived and I don't always take the cushion with me.




Hadn't realised how filthy the locker was. Time to get scrubbing I guess.

Phil M

[SteveHall]

Good idea with the flap and popper Phil - I will see how I get on with the latch I have ordered.

I am in the same situation with the filthy boat - but bring on the Easter weekend and she will be getting a good clean and all the little jobs sorted.

[SteveHall]

In my head I had planned to have the lid, then the keep, then the foam and re-trimmed seat top - and thought it would work perfectly and fit flush - but last night when I was playing with all the bits I had a thought...Balls - didnt think about the bolts heads on the keep...


Due to the lip on the locker when I mount the keep on the lid the bolt heads will be in the flush gap that should be between the lid and locker.

My only idea is to drill two holes in the lip of the locker that will line up with the bolt heads - but I dont like this idea of lots of holes.

[Poly]

countersink the holes and use c/sunk bolts?

[SteveHall]

I thought about that - but I don't have the thickness in the metal of the keep - But I will see if I can get some lower profile nuts first