Looking for winterizing tips and advice

[Alex88]

I have heard a number of conflicting pieces of advice over the years when it comes to winterizing. I was hoping those with more knowledge on the subject could lend their advice, plus anything I might be missing.

My boat is new this year and I want to be sure I'm doing all the right things (or at least trying). It's a 6m with a 150 Suzuki. 45 hours on the clock.

Questions below. Some are very minor things I know.

1) Fuel.
Do you leave the tank full for the winter months as empty as possible? Do you use a fuel stabilizer? If so is one brand better than the others?

2)Gear oil, fuel filters, water seperators
Do you change this pre winterizing to be sure there is no water present? Do you wait until spring to change some of these parts?

3)Engine trim.
Fully up fully down or on the flick stand?

4)Tubes.
Do you leave them Fully pumped?. Any recommendations on a good tube cleaner?.

Any other tips?. Also, what jobs should my mechanic definitely be doing before a long winter storage period.

Many thanks.

[wgc851]

1. Fuel,
Leave the tank full, definitely put some stabilizer in, modern fuel is guff and doesn't last. Started using stabil360 this year, can't comment on long term performance but if it does what it says on the bottle then it's damn good!
2. Leave till pre season
3. Trim. Personal preference, don't think it really makes any difference but I leave mine down.
4. Tubes, keep them inflated and put some sealant/protector on before you lay her up. polymarine do a good cleaner and sealant and no doubt others will come along with other suggestions

You could give the grease nipples a quick pump. Depending on your steering arrangement maybe grease that too.

[charliee]

There will be differing views. It would be good to know if its stored in a building or outdoors undercover, but to cover your points this is what I do.
Questions below. Some are very minor things I know.

1) Fuel. - Either Full or as low as possible so in the spring you add fresh fuel and it mixes with the old. I don't bother with Stabilizer but I try to use a tank of Super Unleaded E97 at the end of season. condensation has no room to generate itself in a full tank.

2)Gear oil, fuel filters, water separators - I do a salt flush when I'm done with the boat

3)Engine trim.
Fully down, it allow any water to drain out

4)Tubes.
Firm rather than fully pumped - I don't want to stress if the weather get hot
Any recommendations on a good tube cleaner - August Race make good products.

Any other tips?. I charge the batteries for 12 hours or so every month or so. I hit an grease nipples and get the trailer serviced in early spring so it ready to go.
I service according to the book but will skip a year if I've only done a few hours and don't have issues to attend to.
I give the boat a dam good wash before bed and look forward to the spring!

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by Alex88

I have heard a number of conflicting pieces of advice over the years when it comes to winterizing. I was hoping those with more knowledge on the subject could lend their advice, plus anything I might be missing.

My boat is new this year and I want to be sure I'm doing all the right things (or at least trying). It's a 6m with a 150 Suzuki. 45 hours on the clock.

Questions below. Some are very minor things I know.

1) Fuel.
Do you leave the tank full for the winter months as empty as possible? Do you use a fuel stabilizer? If so is one brand better than the others?

2)Gear oil, fuel filters, water seperators
Do you change this pre winterizing to be sure there is no water present? Do you wait until spring to change some of these parts?

3)Engine trim.
Fully up fully down or on the flick stand?

4)Tubes.
Do you leave them Fully pumped?. Any recommendations on a good tube cleaner?.

Any other tips?. Also, what jobs should my mechanic definitely be doing before a long winter storage period.

Many thanks.

I accept i live in the south and some in the north will have another angle ,but why not just use it ? ,some of the mirror like seas appear from November to Feb ,and of course theres always boxing day for a sporting activity !

[Jon Tallis]

I'm with Orwell Boy here....have had some fantastic trips out in the dead of winter but in years when work or other plans mean I know I'm not going to have the chance my winterisation routine is...
* Fuel - as low as possible
* Engine down (my boat lives outdoors with a cover)
* Engine ideally fully serviced, if I have the chance, so it's ready to go next season and so any gremlins can get found now and fixed over the winter
* Battery off, charged and kept somewhere not likely to get really cold
* All removable kit off the boat and kept in the dry
* Wheels and brake drums off the trailer, brakes bagged over with heavy poly bags. Seems to make the brakes last longer, also makes it a lot harder to nick
* Trailer left very "nose up', trunk down so boat stays drained

[Alex88]

Thanks for all the feedback so far.

To confirm, I will be leaving it in a shed with dust cover.

I would love to use her all year but work and other commitments dont allow.

To Synopsize the points so far for future readers.

1) Fuel.
The debate is still out. Suggestions include a full tank with a good stabilizer (stabil360) or completely empty and fill with fresh petrol in the spring.
I am going to look into stabilizers further and calculate how much is required for my 150l tank and if they have any negative effects on engines.

2)I think I will fully service pre-Winterizing.

3)Engine trim down and drain water where possible. Try to store boat nose high so water drains throughout the season if outside.

4)Keep them pumped and use a good cleaner or sealant for storage.

Other.
Clean thoroughly remove all salt (obvious)
Pump the grease nipples.
Keep batteries out of the cold and charge monthly if possible.
Don't use trailer handbrake.

Leave in and use all year if possible!

Please feel free to add anything to the list.

Thanks

[Jon Tallis]

I was advised a very long time ago (long before the ethanol debate) that leaving tanks or any other part of the fuel system vented to atmosphere (eg carb bowls) dry was risking formation of salt crystals from any salt water that might have found its way into the system. Those crystals may then block downstream complements. Might be a very conservative approach but I've always taken it.
For that reason, and also because gasoline loses some of its volatile compounds in long term storage, I recon best approach to the 'fuel' question is a low level kept in the tank over winter, with fuel stabiliser added, then brimmed with fresh fuel next season

[Poly]

I am mostly in the Orwell boy camp - but “short days”, “weather”, “work” etc can mean it never actually happens so my assumption when I put the boat back in the shed after the kids September or October holiday (depending what’s planned) is she may not be back out until Easter, or even may bank holiday. So make sure everything is rinsed/aired/vented accordingly.

No special battery treatment before putting away; but usually bring out the night before use and leave on trickle charge overnight if it’s been more than 3-4 months.

Fuel tanks full (far easier to top them up than manage to ensure they are empty). Usually topped off with the premium unleaded stuff. I did used to run the carbs dry when I had a two stroke (autolube). I’ve not added stabiliser since going 4 stroke and not had an issue despite lockdowns preventing/delaying relaunch dates.

[TmMorris]

The fuel debate is a hard one as there are a few variables involved. I think that to make the best personal choice the vital starting point stems from knowing how clean your fuel tank is.

If it's been sweating all season or has never been flushed then you could have a reasonable amount of water lying in the bottom by the end of the season. A very heavy drinker may find that the ethanol constantly going into the tank actually absorbs any tank sweating and disposed of the water through the engine very happily, other types of user may find that they are particularly prone to moisture build up.

If you're confident that your tank is clean at the end of the season then brimming with a premium grade or marine fuel that has preferably no ethanol and then sealing the tank would be ideal. However, if you don't know when you're tank was last drained or you suspect your type of use leads to a natural build up of water then it may be prudent to run the level low and then drain off the remainder which you either leave empty or brim with premium.

Personally, I don't store any petrol over winter these days but instead empty all the garden and outboard tanks and pour it into a car, typically a gallon or two shortly after each fill up.