Making jockey console watertight.

kerny · 27 September 2014, 16:07

What would be the best way to stop water entering my jockey console ?

Water runs down the helm then flows under my seat which then enters through the witches hat and straight into the hull. This can be from heavy rain or if its choppy while out at sea.

kerny · 27 September 2014, 16:11

If the seat cannot be sealed would the best option be to replace the witches hat with cable trunking to act as a snorkel then drill a couple of holes at floor level at the rear of the jockey console to let trapped water out.

Your thoughts and advice very welcome

Poly · 27 September 2014, 16:50

Would something like ETS58 near the bottom of this page: door seals, rubber seals, rubber extrusions, window rubbers by seals direct
not give you raised edge and a reasonable seal? a lot easier than having to refit all the cables...

butty · 27 September 2014, 17:38

I think your idea of raising the witches hat so water runs past it rather than down it would be good.

You could easily do this using some marine ply circles cut to the same diameter as the OD of the witches hat, if you bonded two together that were made out of 3/4" ply then that would be about 40mm high.

These could be coated with flow coat to make water tight. Even if you cut the circle shape in half, two half circles these could be fitted without removing all ththe cabling!?!

Davie · 27 September 2014, 17:45

Get a children's bucket for going to the beach use it as a mould! Simple!

kerny · 27 September 2014, 19:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davie

Get a children's bucket for going to the beach use it as a mould! Simple!

I think that I will pass on the bucket idea thanks Davie, it wouldn't do my street cred any good

Quote:

Originally Posted by butty

I think your idea of raising the witches hat so water runs past it rather than down it would be good.

You could easily do this using some marine ply circles cut to the same diameter as the OD of the witches hat, if you bonded two together that were made out of 3/4" ply then that would be about 40mm high.

These could be coated with flow coat to make water tight. Even if you cut the circle shape in half, two half circles these could be fitted without removing all ththe cabling!?!

That sounds like a great idea butty and maybe it could be done with plastic or perspex so no messing about with flow coat, just use sikaflex.

Unless someone comes up with a better idea I think that'll be the way to go

nugent · 27 September 2014, 19:13

I us 18mm ply circle to raise it and simply bond it up with silka flex works fine

and hat can be added as previously discussed I don't bother personally but that's just me, not got console pic but eng end same principle works great

Poly · 27 September 2014, 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

Unless someone comes up with a better idea I think that'll be the way to go

No - you are treating the symptom not the cause. Keep the water out the console then you don't need to worry about the witches hat.

kerny · 27 September 2014, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by nugent

I us 18mm ply circle to raise it and simply bond it up with silka flex works fine

and hat can be added as previously discussed I don't bother personally but that's just me, not got console pic but eng end same principle works great

Thanks Ed, if you recommend using ply instead of plastic I ain't going to argue with you

kerny · 27 September 2014, 19:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

No - you are treating the symptom not the cause. Keep the water out the console then you don't need to worry about the witches hat.

Poly if I go your way I will have to look at putting some fasteners or clamps on the seat to clamp it down to create a seal also my wife sits at the back and I usually stand up and with it being a double seat it would act like a seesaw effect lifting the front of the seat off the seal so water would still get in if you get what I mean.

Poly · 27 September 2014, 19:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

Poly if I go your way I will have to look at putting some fasteners or clamps on the seat to clamp it down to create a seal also my wife sits at the back and I usually stand up and with it being a double seat it would act like a seesaw effect lifting the front of the seat off the seal so water would still get in if you get what I mean.

OK - I get what you are saying but I still think you are solving the wrong problem! Even a small white bead in front of the cushion would deflect a lot of the water sideways.

I guess the other option would be to router a groove into the seat base all the way round and add a vertical lip round the inside of the opening so water has to go uphill to get in. Obviously it will depend what the base of the seat looks like how easy that is in reality.

nugent · 27 September 2014, 19:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

Poly if I go your way I will have to look at putting some fasteners or clamps on the seat to clamp it down to create a seal also my wife sits at the back and I usually stand up and with it being a double seat it would act like a seesaw effect lifting the front of the seat off the seal so water would still get in if you get what I mean.

No Cnc router cut fomex is pucks way of doing it,,,,

ShinyShoe · 27 September 2014, 19:51

So you need to look at the dinghy sailing world for ideas. Firstly reduce the water reaching the seat. So look at the deck of some dinghies and you will see an angled v across the deck that diverts wave spray off the sides. Should be able to do something to drop the water off the sides.

Now look at something like the back buoyancy tank on a wayfarer for the seat top. Basically a rim with a bit of rubber trim on it. Plus some lever action clips to force the seal...

ShinyShoe · 27 September 2014, 19:52

If you fix the witches hat how does water get out the console once its in...?

nugent · 27 September 2014, 19:58

I said ply cause its easy to get and simple to work with
Plastic is fine but fomex even better. Mists seats are made from this material now instead of ply wood

This is my actual method that I use. But I have a huge laser and Cnc router to hand not quite DIY. But you could do it with hole cutters I guess

nugent · 27 September 2014, 20:00

[QUOTE="ShinyShoe;647915"]If you fix the witches hat how does water get out the console once its in...?[/QUOTE I have a hole in the rear of console into hull my self in case of any build up or salty stuff

simply drops below deck ,and gets released when bung is opened on journey home

kerny · 27 September 2014, 20:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShinyShoe

If you fix the witches hat how does water get out the console once its in...?

Page 1 post number 2

Do wake up Shiny

kerny · 27 September 2014, 20:15

Pics of seat

A1an · 28 September 2014, 19:59

I reckon a neoprene seal and a latch would be worth a shot.

Maximus · 29 September 2014, 08:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by A1an

I reckon a neoprene seal and a latch would be worth a shot.

Sound a decent idea Al.
Often the simple ideas are the best solutions!
You could always Taylor it to incorporate an overlap too....bit of trial and error may well do the job Mate....and with good latches like Protex ect you can crank em down pretty well...I've got a couple... if you want I'll bring them up to Tony T's...when we have our Beano!

(Gratis to you)
Gotta make Polly right....keeping the water out in the first place is the priority...and also gives you usable storage.