Marine engineering recommendation

[sterobloc]

Looking to acquire a towable inboard diesel around 6.5 meters. Not many come on the used market so looking at new. Looked at one leading manufacturer and whilst the cost of the basic boat is reasonable they appear to bump the price up fitting out. So can anyone recommend marine engineers (Solent area) who could supply engine and fit out to complete the boat with instrumentation ready for the water at a more reasonable cost.

[Fender]

MB Marine in Southampton are very good
MB Marine Sales Ltd - THE Service Centre for Marine Outboards | mbmarine.co.uk

[beamishken]

Doesn't the ce certificate refer to the whole boat and engine installation with an inboard? I'd check how the certification works if a 3rd party does the installation post build

[Andre]

The best Diesel engine for a 6.5 rib is the Mercury Diesel QSD 2.0 150 or 170 HP with Alpha One or Bravo One drives budget pending. This comes with DTS controls and Smartcraft vessel viewer engine management or if low budget just QS gauges. Some few years ago I had a demo Parker 650 with the 170 HP version. Good combination and was quickly snapped up by Greenpeace. I am having two of these engines fitted in my new demo rib now in production (not a 650). If you are interested I can make you an offer for complete package. Best drop me an email enquiry.

I would not advise having a third party install a stern drive engine into a brand new rib. Think of the warranty issues . If the rib does not perform the other two parties will be blaming each other . It is different with an outboard engine and installation is straightforward . Something to think about

[Pikey Dave]

I agree with Andre re. Having the engine fitted by a third party. I'm guessing that any savings would be minimal & you are leaving yourself open to a whole world of pain if it goes wrong.

[sterobloc]

Thanks, good advice. Not till you ask the question do you get to see the bigger picture.

[jwalker]

Take care to be sure of your engine installer and installation. Sea water is your enemy and, unlike an outboard motor, a simple engine cover it not adequate. The engine needs air and an air intake system which prevents the ingress of water in the event of water in the boat is essential, also essential is the requirement to keep water away from the engine generally - a hole cut in the deck with an engine box over it is not satisfactory. Bear in mind that it is also possible for water to get into the engine via the exhaust system because an inboard engine is low in the boat and the exhaust manifold will not be particularly high above the water line. IMHO an exhaust riser or an above water exhaust outlet with some form of prevention for reverse water ingress is also a necessity.

Bear in mind that there is plenty of less than satisfactory installations performed by 'professional' folk - choose wisely!

[John Kennett]

The Parker 650 with the 170hp is a good combination and great to drive.

Avoid the 1.7l 120hp Mercruiser though as they are gutless and trouble prone. I'm not sure if they still sell them new, but you may find them coming up in second hand boats. They were relatively common in small diesel RIBs as there weren't many other options

[GuyC]

If you are going down the route of a bare RIB and then fitting it out to your specification, I would almost consider the engine and drive arrangement first before settling on a suitable hull to carry it around.

I briefly looked at a Yanmar diesel sterndrive as a replacement for the current engine in mine but the £24k list price made me reconsider - it would have quadrupled the value of the boat.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by GuyC

If you are going down the route of a bare RIB and then fitting it out to your specification, I would almost consider the engine and drive arrangement first before settling on a suitable hull to carry it around.

I agree with that to a large extent. Inboard diesel engines are heavy so you need a hull with a fair amount of buoyancy in the stern to carry the weight of the engine and drive. Shallow or narrow hulls will lie very deep in the water. Such hulls may not perform the way you might expect, they may not be unsatisfactory but they will be different. Also, a hull which is low in the water means the engine is further below the water line and this leads to more engine vulnerability so it needs to be considered carefully.

[Andre]

Originally Posted by jwalker

I agree with that to a large extent. Inboard diesel engines are heavy so you need a hull with a fair amount of buoyancy in the stern to carry the weight of the engine and drive. Shallow or narrow hulls will lie very deep in the water. Such hulls may not perform the way you might expect, they may not be unsatisfactory but they will be different. Also, a hull which is low in the water means the engine is further below the water line and this leads to more engine vulnerability so it needs to be considered carefully.

well said and fully agree

look here Parker 650 | Parker Ribs and you will see a short film showing the Parker 650 with the Mercury Diesel QSD 2.0 170 HP with Bravo One drive. The film was taken on a lake so not much wave jumping but nevertheless gives a good idea of the handling. Further down you will also see a photo of the engine installation and photos of other Parker 650 diesel ribs.

[Dirk Diggler]

I'd try and find a reputable boat/rib builder and try and work with them for a number of reasons.

In theory, the builder can buy a motor package for less money than a dealer, if it's an engine brand that they normally use. A lot tend to sell the package on to the customer for cost, or a small mark up, as the bulk of the profit should come from the build. They'll also have a set routine for installing it, as in.. battery location, fuel lines, vents etc.

A decent marine engineer or dealer should be more than capable of doing a similar job, but will almost certainly charge more. £50 an hour or so soon mounts up, and they'll want to charge for every little thing, and take a lot longer to do each one. You'll be paying for "thinking time" whilst they try to work out where to fit each bit.

You shouldn't have a problem with CE, as anyone who undertakes work on new or s/h boats has to work to CE ruling.

If you go the engineer route, I would at least get the boat builder to install engine beds, and cut the transom hole for you, which would eliminate the set up problems you might encounter if the engineer did it.

[Andre]

All our engineers are Mercury certified and they have installed loads of diesel stern drive engines. I am repeating myself but we are the distributor for Mercury so how better placed can one be. The only rib manufacturer who is also an engine distributor

We would not sell a bare hull with engine beds ready . From us only turn key stern drive or ready for outboard.

The ball is in your court.

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by Andre

The only rib manufacturer who is also an engine distributor

Really?

So the last sentence on Redbay's page here is factually inaccuarte?

Redbay