Moving centre console forward - project

[jeffstevens763@g]

Rigid Inflatable Boats - a vast range of quality ribs for both leisure crafts and sports craft from Humber Inflatables

Traditional built deck of ply covered in glass fiber stuck to the hull and flow coated to finish jockey consoles with external flange sikaflex sealed & screwed down to the floor through the plywood.

[eze]

The screws I removed from the single seat centre console were stainless steel pan head pozi drive no 12 x 1 3/4", the space between fixings was 75mm, seal with some non permanent sealant/bonding material.


Why the screws are so long is beyond my comprehension.


As Jeff says, the main fixing is without doubt into the plywood (full depth) and not the grp.


Fixing into grp only with a chemical anchor/fixing can work but grp is total pants for a mechanical anchor/fixing unless securing from other side with say nut & washer.




cheers eze

[eze]

Deck has been sanded and new position of console & jockey masked out.





Non slip coating applied

[A1an]

The black under the console, is that non slip too?

[eze]

Originally Posted by A1an

The black under the console, is that non slip too?

Yeah, keep my bbq and beer there and didn’t want it getting to shaken about

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by eze

Yeah, keep my bbq and beer there and didn’t want it getting to shaken about

Just a word of caution re. Non-slip. It's brutal on bags, boots, anything really. I use heavy duty rubber matting in top of mine to protect said articles. The matting also is more comfortable to stand on & provides some shock absorption.

[eze]

Cheers

[eze]

Hi,


Rib centre console/seat is ready for gel coat then flow coat. Due to the temperature I am going to bring it in the house to do.


QUESTION


Once final wax coat has been applied and touch dry, is there a minimum time frame before I can attack it with wet & dry paper. I did a trial run on a test area last week and it was good to go next day but any advice welcome.


thanks


eze

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

Coach screws aren't any good, too much shank, not enough thread, plus they're tapered, much better fixing with a parallel thread pan head self tapper.

I'm with Dirk, if you apply just a little too much pressure on the coach screws they'll strip out the ply and you'll be left with a large hole. At least if you're ham fisted with a self tapper you can pop in the next fatter size.

If you do your self tappers properly, they'll be very strong. I did a thread here a number of years ago showing the strength achievable. 2 smallish self tappers holding the weight of an anvil. Can't find it at the mo though.

Here ya go, it was hiding in Paul Glatzel's thread....

http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/maib-rep...tml#post235737

[eze]

Originally Posted by eze

Hi,


Rib centre console/seat is ready for gel coat then flow coat. Due to the temperature I am going to bring it in the house to do.


QUESTION


Once final wax coat has been applied and touch dry, is there a minimum time frame before I can attack it with wet & dry paper. I did a trial run on a test area last week and it was good to go next day but any advice welcome.


thanks


eze

At 20C & 2% catalyst, the working time was 10-12 minutes till flow or gel coat started to gel upon application.

Time until tak dry (no paint coming off on finger when rubbed over surface) was 1.50 hrs.


Even though I kept the doors shut the whole house smells of resin. The mrs is gonna go barmy if it still smells tonight....I need a fall guy....'sorry luv, Jeff said it needed to be done today....before the paint turned in this cold weather'


that might just work.

[jeffstevens763@g]

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk...oachScr_8.html

i blame me mate no probs.
in answer to the screw debate see the link.
coach screws are wood screws they have an un-threaded shank which on your job will be small which will be hid in the console and sika flex area.
they are only tapered to start the screw then they are parallel i guess you would need 40 mm long screws for 25 mm ply 3 mm sika, 5 mm console and 8 mm through so the taper is past the wood giving full width of the screw in the wood.
as for tightening use a battery drill with a torque setting and hex bit if you dont want to over tighten practise on a spare bit of wood.wood self tappers are ok but you need the thread to be deep not shallow to bite well into the wood as ply is relatively soft dont forget its a laminate not solid hard wood. i coated my screws with sika if i were to do it again i would use gorilla glue just because it swells and will reinforce the wood in the screw area, all in my opinion of course

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk...oachScr_8.html

i blame me mate no probs.

Aye, No way man, you been way too good to me to do that to you fa sure
besides, the smell has gone so ye be in the clear Jeff

Gonna hit it hard with wet & dry on a palm sander tomorrow before the bugger gets too hard like.

[eze]

Just did a small flat area with 600grit wet & dry...... needs 400g for sure or maybe 320g/240g for first run over. Corners will prob be done by hand.


Must be honest here - it looks real shite right now and would not use the gel/flowcoat stuff again. But this is a learning curve I have to make pay as I invested ££ into the coatings.


I wonder how much it would cost to have sprayed in say 2 pack?


That's it for tonight, tis brewski o'clock

[jeffstevens763@g]

PM neugent on here he does hull spraying with a paint system and he's bloody good search his threads recently he's got some pics of his work I was well impressed

Cheers

[eze]

Well,
Using gel/flowcoat turned out to be a total waste of my time, effort and resources. Impossible to sand flat without the original colour coming through....okay would be possible if I had the patience of a saint. Time to cut my losses here.


Took it to car sprayer to get it back to flat and apply 2 pack - £200.

[beerbelly]

that's cheap I paint cars for a living and you don't get much for £200

[eze]

Originally Posted by beerbelly

that's cheap I paint cars for a living and you don't get much for £200

Hi there BB,

TBH, he looked at it and was not keen to do it, but as I push a bit of work through his friend then maybe he felt obliged.

In man hours I reckon on 60 mins prep time, then undercoat & top coat spraying time + material costs. So maybe 2 hrs max? I dunno.
What would 2 pack paint costs be for the job £30?

[beerbelly]

yes about £30 but don't forget activator primer and activator thinners abrasives masking materials and downtime where he isn't making his usual money and the general awkwardness of working on a boat rather than a car .he is doing you a big favour. when he could probably be making £300 for painting a scuffed bumper on a panel stand