Moving centre console forward - project

[eze]

Hi Guys,

I intend to move the centre console/single jockey seat further forward at some stage. This will allow me to fit a single jockey seat to the aft and imho will allow the boat to plane better when 2 up albeit at the expense of a rougher ride at the helm.

4.3M Humber Assault

Questions

1 - When moving console/jockey seat forward, is it best practise to re-use the existing fixing holes (if possible) or should I fill the existing fixing holes and pilot drill fresh holes to accept the 4.8mm x 18mm self tappers?

2 - Assuming I have to drill new holes I feel a 3.5mm pilot hole into the deck would be best for a 4.8mm self tapper?

Any advice welcome, thanks

[jeffstevens763@g]

When I did my jockey seats I drilled new holes reason new wood better than old also I used hex head coach screws instead of pozi head screws reason easier to do up without slipping with a coarser thread sealed with sikaflex.
Pilot hole need to be same size as the shank of the screw you use

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

When I did my jockey seats I drilled new holes reason new wood better than old also I used hex head coach screws instead of pozi head screws reason easier to do up without slipping with a coarser thread sealed with sikaflex.
Pilot hole need to be same size as the shank of the screw you use

Hi Jeff, great idea, do we know of an online stockist of s/s hex head coach screws?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Try seascrew I think that's were I got mine it's good site for other stuff too

[GuyC]

Originally Posted by eze

Hi Jeff, great idea, do we know of an online stockist of s/s hex head coach screws?

Ebay and search for 316 stainless coach screw.

[two stroke mick]

don't depend on just the screws The proper way is to use screws/ fixings and sikaflex or as I did Scres, sikaflex and fibreglass matting

[jeffstevens763@g]

TSM is right must be glued down i used marine flex same as sika but cheaper also when you fill your old holes with wood plugs use gorilla glue it's waterproof and swells 4-5 times giving a good seal then a coat of flow coat on top when sanded down to seal.
east coast resin supplies for flow coat / glassfiber

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

TSM is right must be glued down i used marine flex same as sika but cheaper also when you fill your old holes with wood plugs use gorilla glue it's waterproof and swells 4-5 times giving a good seal then a coat of flow coat on top when sanded down to seal.
east coast resin supplies for flow coat / glassfiber

I was going to use chopped grp to fill the holes in the wood deck but maybe gorilla glue mixed with wood shaving would be easier and cheaper.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by eze

I was going to use chopped grp to fill the holes in the wood deck but maybe gorilla glue mixed with wood shaving would be easier and cheaper.

chopped strand isn't waterproof wet your plug of wood with water then coat with gorilla glue bang them in the hole [tight fit] the glue expands with the water activating it

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

chopped strand isn't waterproof wet your plug of wood with water then coat with gorilla glue bang them in the hole [tight fit] the glue expands with the water activating it

Thanks Jeff, will do.

Once holes are plugged then I sand deck, acetone clean & apply flocoat...is it that simple or have I missed something here? Aha....


1 - how much material do I need to remove from existing flocoat deck, am I just getting a good key for adhesion? (I will be using the anti slip flocoat)

2 - Do I use ordinary masking tape or do I need to mask off where the sponsons are glued to deck with something a bit heavier duty?

thanks

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by eze

Thanks Jeff, will do.

Once holes are plugged then I sand deck, acetone clean & apply flocoat...is it that simple or have I missed something here? Aha....


1 - how much material do I need to remove from existing flocoat deck, am I just getting a good key for adhesion? (I will be using the anti slip flocoat)

2 - Do I use ordinary masking tape or do I need to mask off where the sponsons are glued to deck with something a bit heavier duty?

thanks

when i did mine i removed the seat bases positioned the new and drew round them then prepped the area down to the original glassfiber drilled the new holes filled the old when i was happy i sanded the filled holes then cleaned with acetone, set the new bases on sika or similar this is the hard part lining it up for the holes, i suppose you could drill through after setting on the glue but i didn't want to contaminate the sealer so i pre-drilled to get all the crap away or you could put some knitting needles in each corner and feed over them that way it's straight on the holes, wish i thought of that at the time but haho.
bed the base down then screw down dip each screw in sika to form a seal, when it's gone off i just nipped each screw/bolt up.
then i masked up inside and out with good masking tape flow coated and peeled off the tape before it set to keep a clean edge.
note i did all my floor again with flowcoat only because the old was white and i wanted grey.
i let my tubes down too and tied down made it easy to work and covered them in old sheets.
others may differ but i did exactly the same as the boat manufacturer did and mine where ali bases for shock mitigation seats never moved and were solid and still are boat now got a new owner he's had it three years and not been back to me.

[eze]

Hi Jeff,

Going to do mine similar to you but will not take it back to the grp.

My Method

· Remove all controls & cables ect. Unscrew and carefully unseal console. Clean & plug existing holes with 5mm wood plugs & gorilla glue. Clean deck with 60 grit, acetone clean area twice. Mark out & mask footprint for console & jockey seat, mask tube areas, now flow-coat the deck area (only mix enough for 20-30 mins) Remove all masking tape. Total deck area to be coated is 4m2.




I assume that one coat will be sufficient?

[jeffstevens763@g]

with 60 grit i assume on a grinder it will take the original flowcoat off and to be fair thats what you need for around the glued area to make sure it's sound flow coat isn't that thick, when i did mine i was told to go right back so there is less risk of delamination and also flowcoat has wax in it you won't get a good adhesion on your new coat, flow coat is a one coat system and the wax comes to the surface when cured well thats what cures it by keeping the air away from the gelcoat which thats what flowcoat is with 10 %wax in

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

with 60 grit i assume on a grinder it will take the original flowcoat off and to be fair thats what you need for around the glued area to make sure it's sound flow coat isn't that thick, when i did mine i was told to go right back so there is less risk of delamination and also flowcoat has wax in it you won't get a good adhesion on your new coat, flow coat is a one coat system and the wax comes to the surface when cured well thats what cures it by keeping the air away from the gelcoat which thats what flowcoat is with 10 %wax in

Hi Jeff,

I was thinking about doing job with a palm sander but will now use flapper style discs on a 4.5" grinder. Obviously I shall start with a less aggressive grit to see how I get on. One coat it is

thanks
eze

[jeffstevens763@g]

Flow coat with grit is very aggressive in its own right so it's like two discs acting against each other the best disc I found and that lasts is the 3 m 60 grit forget the name of them they are woven with big gaps cris cross so they don't get blocked cleans the area very fast, just don't drop the grinder it'll make a mess of your tubes. It's an interesting project you have post some pics up as you go and any tips you might learn.

[eze]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Flow coat with grit is very aggressive in its own right so it's like two discs acting against each other the best disc I found and that lasts is the 3 m 60 grit forget the name of them they are woven with big gaps cris cross so they don't get blocked cleans the area very fast, just don't drop the grinder it'll make a mess of your tubes. It's an interesting project you have post some pics up as you go and any tips you might learn.

Evening Jeff,

I have just ordered a few 80 & 120 grit flap discs for my grinder. Tbh a DAS orbital buffer MAY be better but that equates to another £100-200 outlay that I feel I can better use elsewhere in the project. I come from a sheet metal work background albeit many years ago so I shall take care here for sure.
Slowly, I am getting together all the bits and pieces so I can carry out the works in October if weather allows. You have been very helpful Jeff & saved me lots of potential errors. All the time I have been amending my 'battle plan' due to your input I thank you for that.
I shall post photos of complete project stage by stage... tis the least I can do.

The next stage will be rigging & positioning of electronics...but that is for another day.

Regards

eze

[eze]

Just a quick update on the project;


Console removed, deck sanded, cleaned then gel coat applied...no problems so far.


Beaded poly flow coat applied next day.... all good.


Today;


Total effing nightmare.....I must have used acetone instead of catalyst to cure as surface finish is still as wet as a willy in a brothel.


So tomorrow will be scraping off beaded flow coat then re-applying with catalyst this time.


Oh well...shit happens and if that is the worst to happen then I will be happy, but what a fecking tit!!!

[Dirk Diggler]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

I used hex head coach screws instead of pozi head screws

Coach screws aren't any good, too much shank, not enough thread, plus they're tapered, much better fixing with a parallel thread pan head self tapper.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

Coach screws aren't any good, too much shank, not enough thread, plus they're tapered, much better fixing with a parallel thread pan head self tapper.

Totally disagree the thread is more aggressive and bites further into plywood with the hex head they are far easer to do up especially if using on the internal flange of seat bases, posidrive are ok but easily slip out and distort,stainless is quite soft in comparison to mild steel that's why some stainless bolts are hard to undo because the thread peaks get stretched, Allen key heads are far better as an alternative

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=st...FL71Tw2K2t12M:

[Dirk Diggler]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Totally disagree the thread is more aggressive and bites further into plywood

Plywood??? The main fixing point should be the glass, not the core...