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01 June 2017, 12:11
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Jazcabel
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Petrol 150
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 354
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Moving petrol tanks
Hi guys and girls,
My aly tank is split and beyond repair so as part of my project im thinking of moving my batteries aft and repositioning a new plastic tank in the double console.
The previous tank was a 300l which I'd hardly ever use that much so I was going to replace it with a 120l plastic from either tek tanks or jay Wolfe. As far as I can see, the balance isssue, if their was one, would be negated by having the batteries after and the tank midship.
The idea would then be to cap the old tank from the old filler, but leave the vent in please. The new tank would then have Would have the old filler pipe and a new vent placed along side. Would that sound ok??
Also the fuel bulb and racor are in the console but I'd like the space back for the tank ad emote oil tank and it's a pain to keep opening up the front locker to prime bulb all the time.
Is there any issue with putting the racor and bulb in the transom??
Thanks in advance
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01 June 2017, 12:53
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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This scenario keeps raising it's head.
The amount of weight you're talking about moving around is about the same as moving a big guy forward from one jockey seat to another in the boat.
With a 7 meter boat that'll make no significant difference what so ever.
Regards the Racor no issues with them on the transom.
The priming bulbs tend to be better at "blowing" than "sucking" so generally better nearer the tank but you might still get away with it.
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01 June 2017, 13:11
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Jazcabel
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Petrol 150
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango
This scenario keeps raising it's head.
Regards the Racor no issues with them on the transom.
Thanks, that will free up a little more room
The priming bulbs tend to be better at "blowing" than "sucking" so generally better nearer the tank but you might still get away with it.
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Makes sense, thanks. Could always have two I suppose
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18 August 2017, 23:57
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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Did you do this? Done the exact same thing on the same hull. Best I could get was 102lt, oil tank and 2 batteries to fit neatly. Also had separate 25ltr tank which was set up as a reserve via a valve, so always had a quick emergency option if caught short at the wrong time. Maintained original fuel filler. Still had loads of storage space and could carry upto 4x 20l containers in jockey seats if doing a long haul route. Ballistic seat pods were a good size.
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20 August 2017, 18:49
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Jazcabel
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Petrol 150
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhb100
Did you do this? Done the exact same thing on the same hull. Best I could get was 102lt, oil tank and 2 batteries to fit neatly. Also had separate 25ltr tank which was set up as a reserve via a valve, so always had a quick emergency option if caught short at the wrong time. Maintained original fuel filler. Still had loads of storage space and could carry upto 4x 20l containers in jockey seats if doing a long haul route. Ballistic seat pods were a good size.
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Hi, no not yet. I've ordered a new plastic tank that fits (140l from tanks4u) and will be doing it over the next two weeks or so.
Keeping the old breather in situ so the old aly tank can breath, but putting a new one in the new tank. Gonna do the same as you and keep the old filler too.
I'll post pics once it's in.
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20 August 2017, 20:04
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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I may redo mine if you can get more capacity. I did not try tanks4u, and wanted to avoid custom made tanks due to high cost for marginal gain. the problem for a bigger off the shelf tank was not fitting within the consul, but getting it through the door apparture! , and I did not want the time hassle of stripping the whole consul to lift it 450mm to slide it underneath.
I looked at an additional custom fuel bladder to go in the under deck front storage area as well, but that was about £400 from USA . I do have some 20l bladders and containers, to carry for a long run, and it's not too much hassle to fill mid trip provided it's not too rough, hence also having the one 22l tank always connected to switch too. With a 150hpdi you should have a decent range without doing this.
Be good to see your photos when you do it.
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20 August 2017, 21:56
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 100hp Yam/150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,069
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No problem at all having the bulb in the stern. Make sure you mount it so that it's easy to orientate it so that the arrow and direction of flow can be pointed upwards. This allows the internal valves to work most effectively.
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21 August 2017, 12:21
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Jazcabel
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Petrol 150
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhb100
I may redo mine if you can get more capacity. I did not try tanks4u, and wanted to avoid custom made tanks due to high cost for marginal gain. the problem for a bigger off the shelf tank was not fitting within the consul, but getting it through the door apparture! , and I did not want the time hassle of stripping the whole consul to lift it 450mm to slide it underneath.
I looked at an additional custom fuel bladder to go in the under deck front storage area as well, but that was about £400 from USA . I do have some 20l bladders and containers, to carry for a long run, and it's not too much hassle to fill mid trip provided it's not too rough, hence also having the one 22l tank always connected to switch too. With a 150hpdi you should have a decent range without doing this.
Be good to see your photos when you do it.
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My bad, the company is not tanks4u it's
https://www.shop4tanks.co.uk. It's jay Wolfe fabrications. Very easy to work with and the website has all the fittings and hose to.
Gould a plastic one that's not custom made and was a great price. Know what you mean about size. Didn't factor that, but the console is up anyway, so it's all good.......hopefully
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12 September 2017, 20:29
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanchan168
My bad, the company is not tanks4u it's
https://www.shop4tanks.co.uk. It's jay Wolfe fabrications. Very easy to work with and the website has all the fittings and hose to.
Gould a plastic one that's not custom made and was a great price. Know what you mean about size. Didn't factor that, but the console is up anyway, so it's all good.......hopefully
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This is what I did., 102ltr in consul and now 50ltr fuel bladder in front deck locker now connected to the 4 way valve. Fitted some new vents to the consul. Seems to work OK.
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12 September 2017, 21:06
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Jazcabel
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Petrol 150
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 354
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Done a really good job. Nice that you had the room too to keep the batteries in the console.
Nice job.
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13 September 2017, 19:00
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: TOP CAT 2
Make: Scorpion 8.1
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250hp HO
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,827
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What bladder you use and how much was it? Been thinking about one too
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16 September 2017, 20:10
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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Hi I was considering a custom one from Atl in the US, this could have been custom made and also I could decide where I wanted to put a deck filler but at £600to£1000 I was looking for others more affordable as I. Could only get c60lts in the now locker. If I could have got 100+ I'd probably have done this. Then I looked at a mobile tank that I could strap to the back of a jockey seat as I'd don't need the extra capacity most of the time, but in the end a couple of seaflex bladders came up on ebay at an affordable price.
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16 September 2017, 20:11
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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16 September 2017, 20:11
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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16 September 2017, 20:21
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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rib makers really should make a way to remove the underfloor tank, nothing to stop a big hatch or the like.
nice job though!
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16 September 2017, 20:33
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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After fitting out several boats now I always try to install the fuel tank/filters in a separate place from the batteries/electrics.
Maybe its just my windy nature but having them all in the same console makes me nervous.
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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16 September 2017, 20:36
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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I guess to give the rigidity it's too hard to do in small ribs, but does seem common on the larger sports boat's. I thought a stainless tank was for life and not c12 years. I will certainly be more cautious with older boats in future. Thankfully I have loads of space to be able to rig up these extra tanks. If not it would have cost me 1000s which for the little I do, would have resulted in me selling for very little. I could have cut around the tank area but with nothing to secure a new floor too without a massive redesign and stringer work, the proper way would be to remove the old deck completely.
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16 September 2017, 20:46
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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all most of them have to do is make the console removable with sealed deck bolt inserts and put the tank right under it or atleast can slide it in/out from it.
on my old avon you folded the console over and you had full access to the tank, perfect!
i don't know how common it is but i know 3 people with ribs who have had tank failures.
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17 September 2017, 10:03
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#19
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D
i don't know how common it is but i know 3 people with ribs who have had tank failures.
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They'd be better making tanks that don't fail then! Most leaks I have heard of are from around the pickup, filler, level sensor connections etc. I'd certainly have some reservations about buying a rib without access to those. Although I suppose it's like the person who buys a new car where to replace the air con compressor you have to remove the gear box - it probably isn't the first owner, or maybe even the second who cares.
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17 September 2017, 16:19
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
Most leaks I have heard of are from around the pickup, filler, level sensor connections etc.
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these have to be accessible for CE
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