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06 July 2008, 09:29
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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looking superb!!
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06 July 2008, 10:49
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,995
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thanks guys, im dead chuffed i did what i did now what with the weather today!
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09 July 2008, 09:29
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,995
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Well boys and girls went out last night in langstone harbour, pretty choppy as you can imagine! - some fairly sizeable rollers actually coming in through the harbour mouth which was quite fun actually
The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around! Im amazed I didnt crash the subaru on the way home! -
SO my next questions is can I rig the cable through the helm the other way does anyone know please? I'm buggered if Im taking the engine off again just so I can move the steering cable, I think the reason I did it was becasue it was quite long and one side was harder to get in as it fouled the tube even when deflated and there not much flex - such a school boy error!
I went out really for 2 reasons,
1. to help a friend move his sailing boat to another mooring - (which amazingly we did without too much grief with current steering issue!)
2. FOr me to experience the Sr5, it certainly retains the sr4 characteristics in a amazing way just a lot bigger/sure footed, really like it - I want a 90 or bigger now tho, I gave it a little blip just briefly in the water ski area just for testing
Couple of pics to follow, looks better in the water
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09 July 2008, 09:43
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#24
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Don't know about switching cable sides on the helm but you should be able to remove the cable from the engine, slacken the big tilt tube nuts and draw the tilt tube through far enough to put the cable in the other side of the motor.(corrosion on threads depending of course).
I bet you're still grinning
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09 July 2008, 10:00
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,995
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Cheers NOS, I didnt know you could get the actual tube out like you say corrosion permitting
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09 July 2008, 10:11
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Boat name: SR4.7
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 EFI
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,106
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Looking good
Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit
The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around! Im amazed I didnt crash the subaru on the way home! -
SO my next questions is can I rig the cable through the helm the other way does anyone know please? I'm buggered if Im taking the engine off again just so I can move the steering cable, I think the reason I did it was becasue it was quite long and one side was harder to get in as it fouled the tube even when deflated and there not much flex - such a school boy error!
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I did exactly the same thing when i rigged mine. It didnt even occur to me to check what way it would go!!! Luckily I was prepared for somthing to go wrong on the first launch so had my tool kit with me. It was just a matter of swapping the cable sides as Nos says.
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09 July 2008, 10:13
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#27
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit
Cheers NOS, I didnt know you could get the actual tube out like you say corrosion permitting
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Looks good-that 60 is almost as big physically as my 85!
You don't have to remove the tube itself. If you've got enough thread sticking out on the port side you might not even need to do what's below.
(might be teaching you to suck eggs here but...)
Wire brush then grease/oil the outside of all the threads before you try to move anything.
Remove the cable from the tilt pivot tube, back the big nyloc nut on the starboard side of the tilt tube off til it's flush with the end of the tube.
At this point if it's undone without having to use 2 spanners you'll want to put a grease gun on the tilt tube grease nipples.
Jack the engine up gently from underneath the skeg to take a bit of weight off the tilt pivot tube.Do up the port side nut in a similar way you would when tapping a thread-one turn then back off half a turn to allow any rust to drop out rather than jamming up the threads.
Just bolt your steering back on the other side then
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09 July 2008, 10:24
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Inverness
Boat name: none
Make: none
Engine: none
MMSI: none
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit
The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around!
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Good anti theft device that, any thief would never get it out the harbour
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09 July 2008, 11:10
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Looks good-that 60 is almost as big physically as my 85!
You don't have to remove the tube itself. If you've got enough thread sticking out on the port side you might not even need to do what's below.
(might be teaching you to suck eggs here but...)
Wire brush then grease/oil the outside of all the threads before you try to move anything.
Remove the cable from the tilt pivot tube, back the big nyloc nut on the starboard side of the tilt tube off til it's flush with the end of the tube.
At this point if it's undone without having to use 2 spanners you'll want to put a grease gun on the tilt tube grease nipples.
Jack the engine up gently from underneath the skeg to take a bit of weight off the tilt pivot tube.Do up the port side nut in a similar way you would when tapping a thread-one turn then back off half a turn to allow any rust to drop out rather than jamming up the threads.
Just bolt your steering back on the other side then
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Thanks NOS, I'll print this out and try to do it like you say, I'll swot up on the yamaha owners manual tonight also - yeah I reckon the whole 50-90 yamaha 3 cylinder range are blatently the same physical size, or at least the cowl hoods are anyway !
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09 July 2008, 15:15
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Enfield/Switzerland
Boat name: Zonneschijn II/Vixen
Make: Shakespeare/Avon
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evin' 175 DI /Yam 90
MMSI: 235055605
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,436
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you can usually just thread the cable through the steering box the other way - may be easier, but quite messy with the grease!
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09 July 2008, 20:34
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Inverness
Boat name: none
Make: none
Engine: none
MMSI: none
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,908
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I am pretty sure the 75 and upwards 3 pots are larger.
The 50, 60 and 70 are all the same size.
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