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Old 08 June 2019, 05:42   #1
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Naiad materials: patch / adhesive for "inner tube"

3.3m Naiad RIB, older, 90's model with aluminum hull, need to do a patch on the black "rubber-like" inner tube.

Anyone know what material Naiad used for the outer layer and more importantly, inner tubes? The black inner tube looks & feels a lot like a thick truck tire innertube, has a lot of elasticity, but perhaps slightly thicker/different type of "rubber"/coated/etc

I need adhesive and also patch material suggestions. preferably something I can pick up locally.

Naiad lists bostik unigrip 999 hr "polyurethane adhesive" + hardener on their web site (unclear what part of the boat it is for, or if the older ones used same materials as current designs), but I've contacted Naiad and they do not respond. I'm in the states and Bostik 999 hr is not available. Bostik adhesives are not common in general. ANY recommendations?

I tried a few tests just to check for adhesion, on non critical area:
-vulcanising contact type tire patch kit (like you would use on a bike inner tube, apply glue let dry then press together) and it didn't work at all, VERY easily peeled off
-polymarine 2 part adhesive from an old patch kit didn't seem to work well at all, not sure if it was for a pvc or hyalon type
-3m super weatherstrip adhesive, yellow (seemed to hold ok, better than anything else) but still not too hard to peel the patch off after full cure.
-Slime brand "heavy duty" rubber adhesive - no go
-3m 5200 -not terrible, but didn't seem to have enough elasticity
-tear aid type b (for vinyl/pvc) tape- seemed ok not great
(everything was sanded, prepped with alcohol and or MEK, and proper cure/procedure and clamping force applied)

I don't have a lot of options for marine products/inflatable patch kits or adhesives locally, and at this point ideally I'm looking for something I can pick up so I can use the boat asap... considering: tear aid "type a" patches, west system g-flex epoxy, 3m super urethane weatherstrip adhesive- black, aquaseal, marine tex flex set...

if I really can't find anything the next step I guess would be ordering clifton hypalon adhesive or clifton shore adhesive from NRS online to try those..

Anyone else have a Naiad? ANY help, tips, thoughts, advice very greatly appreciated
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Old 08 June 2019, 18:35   #2
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Country: UK - England
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If it's an hole you could use a clamshell repair no glue needed
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Old 08 June 2019, 20:48   #3
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Thanks for the option, I didn’t know about that type of clamp/repair patch!

That is actually how the valves are attached to the inner tubes, just tightened down with a sealing surface & extra thick “rubber” no adhesive..

I actually have about 5 or so pin holes over a 5” long area... so the clamshell is not ideal. Plus the inner tube has to conform to fill an irregular shaped area between the aluminum hull & the outer tubes, (where the pin holes are corresponds to the hull to outer tube junction, where something likely got pinched)..

But still a good option.

I’m still hopeful someone who has experience with the brand or specific inner tube material will chime in!!
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Old 08 June 2019, 21:45   #4
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Country: UK - England
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RIBase
The glue as you mentioned but then it says outer cover and inner tubes so I guess you repair the inner tube for pin holes the twin system is odd to me but similar principle to car wheels.


https://www.naiad.co.nz/For+Sale/Spare+Parts.html
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Old 10 June 2019, 02:26   #5
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Try Bixler Marine Tube seal in the US.
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Old 10 June 2019, 13:38   #6
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Country: USA
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NAIAD are CSM/CR material.

You need to use a two part "Hypalon" type polychloroprene adhesive with isocyanate reactant.


Follow the instructions by the manufacturer of the adhesive.

They are moisture critical. Any exposure to moisture (humidity) during patch glue up/curing will cause premature patch failure.

Adhesives typically have a 1 year shelf life, less if exposed to high temperature or humidity. The isocyanate reactant goes bad in about 35-45 days once opened. Once it becomes cloudy, it's trash.
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Old 10 June 2019, 17:56   #7
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The outer "cover"/tubes might be hypalon.



However, the inner tubes are definitely NOT "hypalon"/csm/cr


They are like "rubber" truck tire inner tubes as described above. I'll try to get a photo asap.



I wasn't able to find a photo online but...progress none the less... a search came up with the following pdf link which shows some of the material around the valves, and describes the inner tube material as "butinol"



https://www.naiad.co.nz/site/naiad/f...structions.pdf


So what do I use to patch butinol?
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Old 10 June 2019, 19:20   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfriendly View Post
The outer "cover"/tubes might be hypalon.



However, the inner tubes are definitely NOT "hypalon"/csm/cr


They are like "rubber" truck tire inner tubes as described above. I'll try to get a photo asap.



I wasn't able to find a photo online but...progress none the less... a search came up with the following pdf link which shows some of the material around the valves, and describes the inner tube material as "butinol"



https://www.naiad.co.nz/site/naiad/f...structions.pdf


So what do I use to patch butinol?
My memory is apparently lousy. I blame Styrene exposure.

PVC/PU outer skin with a butyl rubber inner bladder for your model.

Butyl is an elastomer. It should be repaired with 2-component polychloroprene adhesive, just like CSM and CR.
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Old 24 June 2019, 05:02   #9
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Apparently my memory is lousy as well... I didn't really recall how to patch a bike tire correctly so my initial "test" failed or the old patch kit I used had gone bad etc.



I called Naiad in NZ and was told to patch it as you would any bike tire or innertube.
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