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21 July 2018, 11:15
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Navigation lights
Trying to do a very simple job grrrr. White nav light has failed. Fitting is worn out, so I have a new one. Out of the box connected direct to a battery works, connected direct to boat battery works. Connected to the wiring where it needs to be nothing
Multi meter out. At the battery end I have 12.6 volts. At the wiring end this had dropped to under 12. The red and green lights are on and fine.
So is the volt drop to be expected. Run is maybe 3-4 metres from battery to a frame or are my wires done for?
Changing the wiring is a pita it’s through the a frame under the floor and so on. If it needs to happen it needs to happen but......
Battery is on charged and it’s all connected to see if an increase at the battery end will show me a light. All I’ve not done that I can think of is start the engine
Why are 5 min jobs never 5 mins
__________________
I was born not knowing and have had only a little time to change that here and there.
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21 July 2018, 11:24
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,165
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Neil, connect the white light to the wiring & switch it on, then put your multimeter across it & see what the voltage is. Also, if its LED, it may be polarity sensitive.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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21 July 2018, 12:50
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#3
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 315
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You could check the voltage drop to the red and green for comparison.
Are there any joints in the cable?
Are the connections all clean and we'll made?
Be careful, I started doing that exact job a few years ago and ended up rewiring everything.
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21 July 2018, 13:48
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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If you still have a problem. As temp measure as long as you don’t use your AW as anchor light why not run a temp line from either port or starboard as you have current there.
__________________
jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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21 July 2018, 18:21
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Thanks chaps. Tested wire back and back to find a good voltage reading. Gave up in the end ever time I split the wire it was brittle and looked on the way out. So bit the bullet took all the old off I’ll put new wire in to all three lights [emoji1][emoji106]
__________________
I was born not knowing and have had only a little time to change that here and there.
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21 July 2018, 18:26
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick
Thanks chaps. Tested wire back and back to find a good voltage reading. Gave up in the end ever time I split the wire it was brittle and looked on the way out. So bit the bullet took all the old off I’ll put new wire in to all three lights [emoji1][emoji106]
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I know it’s a PITA but you know it’s sorted so you can enjoy yourself [emoji106]
__________________
jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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21 July 2018, 18:45
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick
Thanks chaps. Tested wire back and back to find a good voltage reading. Gave up in the end ever time I split the wire it was brittle and looked on the way out. So bit the bullet took all the old off I’ll put new wire in to all three lights [emoji1][emoji106]
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I'm assuming you'll be using tinned cables[emoji6]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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21 July 2018, 19:12
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Naturally [emoji56]
__________________
I was born not knowing and have had only a little time to change that here and there.
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21 July 2018, 21:34
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,645
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Tinned cable all the way. Spent two summers chasing trim tilt issues due to Tohatsu wiring oxidising. Glad you got it sorted.
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Is that with or without VAT?
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21 July 2018, 22:04
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#10
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Member
Country: Ireland
Length: no boat
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 315
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I told you be careful!
Don’t forget heat shrink connectors too (or Liquid Electrical tape). And gloves so that you don’t skin your knuckles.
And maybe LED lights, a nice new vhf, oh and as you’re running new cable a shiny new chartplotter. And maybe a stereo, USB points and maybe a Bow Thruster.......
I over specced the gauge of the cable on the basis that it’s a fairly harsh environment for electrics.
__________________
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21 July 2018, 22:07
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Rofl and so it begins [emoji1][emoji106]
__________________
I was born not knowing and have had only a little time to change that here and there.
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