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19 November 2008, 19:38
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#1
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 53
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Need some advice please
After a few times ribbing with my new rib found out i have a small problem.
On somewhat rougher water two closing devices tent to open up on themselfs.
I think a pic says more then my rusty english...
I think I'll need to put something in the open ring, where you could also do a little lock.
But I don't want it to start making irritating noices from virbrations.
So was thinking of putting in some sort of rubber hose.
But would like to make it look nice to, so not only functional, need both....
Anyone any ideas??
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19 November 2008, 19:43
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Those type of latch need to be fitted just right. Not to loose and not too tight. Not much you can do now with out re fitting them. Maybe a thin piece of rubber that will fit snug in the hole with a cord connected so it doesn't go AWOL.
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19 November 2008, 19:45
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Be careful what you use, some metals or shite stainless will cause your nice shiny bits to rust.
Is it a seat or something, the weight of someone landing on it can compress it enough to pop open. Try packing it out a bit with some sticky back foam?
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19 November 2008, 19:45
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 100hp Yam/150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,069
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Perhaps a seal under the lid will give the latch some load to tension up against?
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19 November 2008, 19:49
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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You could also try slackening off the screws and see if you can micro adjust it to put a tad bit more tension on it. I like Seariders idea though.
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19 November 2008, 19:56
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#6
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 53
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Searider, with a seal under the lit, you meen like a few mm thick sticky fome or something.
So there is more tension on the thing (how do you call it..) when you close it.
That should keep it from popping open?
Might indeed do it...
They are used for closing and opening my console, to be able fold the console for whatever reason you might have to open it up.
I was also thinking of removing these two latches (is that what they are called?), and just put two sollid connectors there.
But then if I need to get in the console, I will need to screw the sollid ones out, and I'm not sure that it's a good idea to screw in an out of the polyester...
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19 November 2008, 20:56
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Here
Boat name: doggypaddle
Make: Avon 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: yamaha 80
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,107
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how about a plastic R clip or a stainless one with a piece of rubber tube over it to stop it rattling?
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I am usually not as green as i am cabbage looking.
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19 November 2008, 21:24
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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20 November 2008, 01:40
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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If you don't need access that often then two little pad locks wouldn't look out of place and shouldn't make that much noise. I've never noticed the noise from banging, above the noise of the wind and engine.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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20 November 2008, 09:38
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintec
...They are used for closing and opening my console, to be able fold the console for whatever reason you might have to open it up.
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Since it's your console, whatever you use will need to be stronger than rubber clamps.
Quote:
I was also thinking of removing these two latches (is that what they are called?), and just put two sollid connectors there.
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Thats a good idea but I would ensure the replacements will allow for some adjustment because, over time, there will be some give in the fixings and some fretting of the console mating surfaces.
Quote:
But then if I need to get in the console, I will need to screw the sollid ones out, and I'm not sure that it's a good idea to screw in an out of the polyester...
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I agree but you could have upper and lower attachments bolted to the console and vertical bolting through them to give the clamping effect.
In the meantime, it might be worth putting a slight bend into the vertical loop section of your clamps. This will have the effect of shortening them and it will also provide a small degree of spring. It might be just enough to be satisfactory without any other modification.
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JW.
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20 November 2008, 11:17
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe, Devon, UK
Boat name: BananaShark
Make: BananaShark
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2xYanmar 260 diesels
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,225
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Protex.com fasteners can't be beat! They won't come undone and they do padlock versions as well.
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Cookee
Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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20 November 2008, 15:22
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#12
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
In the meantime, it might be worth putting a slight bend into the vertical loop section of your clamps. This will have the effect of shortening them and it will also provide a small degree of spring. It might be just enough to be satisfactory without any other modification.
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This seems like a real possibility, espescially in combination with a rubber sticky seal on top of the latch for more tension on them.
But then, how do I bent them a little without damaging or breaking...?
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20 November 2008, 16:00
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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If you don't need regular access how about a couple of tie wraps?
Ian
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20 November 2008, 16:29
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#14
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walruz
If you don't need regular access how about a couple of tie wraps?
Ian
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That sure would do the trick....
But doesn't solve it rattling.... hmmmm
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20 November 2008, 17:35
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintec
...But then, how do I bent them a little without damaging or breaking...?
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If they are stainless steel, undo and remove the loop section, grip it in a vice about half way up the loop (protect the finish) and tap it using a hammer and a block of wood. If you don't have access to a vice, support it on two blocks of wood with a space between them and whack it with the ball end of a hammer on each side of the loop and over the unsupported space. Other metals will bend too but if it's cast brass which is chrome plated it may not be happy to bend far without breaking or cracking.
I have bent cast stainless steel and it's been surprisingly maleable...I can't guarantee yours is though.
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JW.
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23 November 2008, 19:34
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#16
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 53
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Well, tried to do the trick with foamtape on top, seemed to be working at first, but after 24 hours, the tension was better but got a lot less from the presure when locked.
Have a new idea, gonna try and make some white pensel eraser just to fit true the holes to keep the things from flipping open. Have good hope this just might work.
No fibration and you hardly see because of the collor.
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