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Old 05 February 2013, 09:35   #21
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Really really nice rig .... for a 99th time of rigging a boat never mind the 1st!

Can I ask the prop size and pitch you will run, and the hight of the antiventilation plate with reference to the keel line.. (i.e. motor height)
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Old 05 February 2013, 12:25   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
Yeah, that's the sort of thing I was thinking of.

I have what was a sinlge NMEA "branch" to my GPS puck, am about to muck about with the Ts to turn it into a backbone and get a couple of Lowrance "plug'n'play" sensors to allow me to see what's happening uner my 1980-ish Cowl.....
Will be interested to see how you go. Do the sensors output NMEA formatted data?
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Old 05 February 2013, 13:11   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOPALX View Post
Update from the outboard guys.

There was a wire that was not plugged into the harness (internally) so they have sorted that and she starts and stops & the electronic choke works now as well.

They worked out the Tacho is dodgy so waiting on a new one to arrive tomorrow before I can pick the boat up.


On a side note I have found a product called the EMU-1 which is due for release shortly. It will convert analogue signals to NMEA200 so thus will enable me to have all my information displayed on the A67 display!
I used this NoLand Engineering RS11 with my Lowrance HDS in my RIB.
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Old 05 February 2013, 19:19   #24
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Tow line

Quote:
Originally Posted by WOPALX View Post
I will connect the tow line via a loop or an eye and the rope, which is fixed to two towing eyes on tube sides and moves free in the towing line loop as a "bridle". See 1st picture I pilfered from the web.

If the weather is bad, we are sailing or we are going around the heads to get into another area, I will use a longer bridle where the ends pass the bow tow rings through, go under the bottom, and are fixed to the transom directly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
Personally, I'd tow from the bow eye but fit some sort of damping on the towing warp - there are a few options. I suppose it depends what speed you plan to tow at to some extent and how heavily the RIB is laid up...
I would not use the eyes on the tubes for towing any distance even with the bridle running back to the transom. Perhaps the tube manufacturers on here will say I’m wrong but I think I would prefer to see all contact with the towline or bridle to a very secure section of the rigid hull. I am not sure but this may be what Willk was getting at.

Meanwhile it looks great and I am sure it will be just the thing for you and the family to make the most of your cruising. Happy Days indeed.

Jon
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Old 06 February 2013, 02:14   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simsy View Post
Really really nice rig .... for a 99th time of rigging a boat never mind the 1st!

Can I ask the prop size and pitch you will run, and the hight of the antiventilation plate with reference to the keel line.. (i.e. motor height)
I will have to find out about prop size and pitch, it's what comes standard with the motor. Obviously I'll check RPM etc and if needed change based on performance.

Height of the anti-ventilation plate to keel line is 1" above the keel line. This was what the outboard mechanic suggested and other people had also indicated was the best
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Old 06 February 2013, 02:18   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon.esp View Post
I would not use the eyes on the tubes for towing any distance even with the bridle running back to the transom. Perhaps the tube manufacturers on here will say I’m wrong but I think I would prefer to see all contact with the towline or bridle to a very secure section of the rigid hull. I am not sure but this may be what Willk was getting at.

Meanwhile it looks great and I am sure it will be just the thing for you and the family to make the most of your cruising. Happy Days indeed.

Jon
The bridle when running back to the transom just uses the tube eyes to run through, I would suspect they will have some pressure on them when the RIB moves side to side but pretty much all the load will go back to the transom mounted lifting points which are very strong.

When puttering about I will probably just use a rope to the bow eye, I plan on taking the small backing plate off that anyway and putting a large one there.

I can then use the small plate as a point to attach the bitter end of the anchor line with a second set of nuts as the bolts are very long.
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Old 06 February 2013, 02:19   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geir View Post
I used this NoLand Engineering RS11 with my Lowrance HDS in my RIB.
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.

Good to have options
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Old 07 February 2013, 09:28   #28
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Back from the outboard guys, she floats!

1800~2000 RPM she shoots out of the hole nicely.

Have a Video of the first run but need to download it from the GoPro

Dont think the tacho is correct, 2000 RPM is yielding 24 knots GPS speed, 3000 RPM is yielding 32 knots and the throttle is pretty much fully extended. Will speak to the outboard guys tomorrow as they said not to exceed 3000 RPM for the first tank of juice.... well I certainly didn't as 32knots is plenty fast enough.
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Old 09 February 2013, 19:11   #29
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Sorted the tacho yesterday, seems it was on the wrong setting.

Had a day out with the family yesterday, covered a lot of miles and boat ran flawlessly.

Apple Tree bay to Refuge Bay, then down to Brooklyn & Pete Island. Back up river to Hallets Beach then to Acuna Bay for an ice cream before heading back to Apple Tree bay to head home. Roughly 4 hours under way and 3/4 of a tank of juice.

Couple of small things to sort out / add / modify. There are no cleats on the transom so tying off an aft mooring line is not so easy and the hour meter seems to be stuck on 1 hour so probably has a loose wire. As I'm 100% happy with the console position I will now lift it up a couple of inches and sikaflex it down & add a couple more bolts to ensure it wont ever move.

Taking the toy for another run this morning to the yacht as I'm taking part in a charity sailing event this morning, taking a bunch of underprivileged kids sailing.
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Old 10 February 2013, 00:20   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon.esp View Post
I think I would prefer to see all contact with the towline or bridle to a very secure section of the rigid hull. I am not sure but this may be what Willk was getting at.
Yup. I've always been towed by the bow eye

It's that nice strong point that most RIB makers design for mooring, anchoring, towing, winching onto trailers and suchlike. If I was towing a SIB, I'd do it the other way. I just assumed that this RIB wasn't designed for rough manhandling
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Old 10 February 2013, 08:03   #31
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We donated some time with our yacht to take some disadvantaged kids out on

So any excuse would do and I gave it another run today rather than using the yacht clubs tender. The second excuse for my long suffering with was that I had to give the yachts teak a treatment so wanted to leave it on the mooring rather than hanging around for the stuff to dry before putting the yacht away... so I'd be home earlier

As it happens the organisers RIB was being difficult to start so I loaned mine to the guys so they could follow the yachts, take pictures and transfer Jessie Martin (the teenager that sailed around the world a few years ago) to each of the yachts to spend some time with the kids while we were sailing.

I don't have any pictures yet, I was too busy running the yacht, but here is one I took after doing the teak, with the RIB way off the back of the yacht.

FYI I towed the RIB with the standard bow eye and it was fine, might upgrade the line to 12mm (presently 8mm) but it was fine and did not fishtail or get the wobbles so all good!
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Old 10 February 2013, 10:57   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
Yup. I've always been towed by the bow eye
Yep me too willk and 25 knots + at that "innit" Maximus
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