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02 July 2007, 19:01
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
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new windscreen and hints on heating and bending pls
I am expecting my new windscreen in the next day or so and i need to put in some gentle bends. I am told this is relatively simple using a heat gun/paint stripper type gun.
however i am after some hints and tips....dos and donts...so i dont fech it up
can any of you experts give me some guidance before i roll up my sleeves
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02 July 2007, 20:33
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cornwall
Length: no boat
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,518
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Hugh
not an expert but I've had a play, I found 3mm Lexan to be really easy to bend into shape with a hot air gun even taking on a bend of up to 90 degrees was no problem, I applied heat for no more than a minute or so and away she went, having tried that I bought a sheet of 6mm and found it a real sod in comparison, I thought I took my time over heating it but couldn't get it to bend without getting it really hot and by then I'd managed to burn some air bubbles into it, where I'd applied heat had gone misty as well. I was still trying to get a bend of 90 degrees and although I succeeded it looked crap!
It's still in my garage if you want it.
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02 July 2007, 20:58
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
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thanks mate for the offer, i think i will practice on the first one i was sent until i master it a bit
question...did you apply the heat gun directly to the material or did you point it away a bit, how hot did you get the stuff
unfortunatley or fortunatley mine will be 6mm plus, so great for strength but interesting to bend i suspect
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02 July 2007, 21:11
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#4
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
MMSI: 235050131
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,931
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I know patience is a virtue and you night need a lot of it to get the conditions I suggest. Might also be a daft idea. Are you going to wait until the sun comes out to play and use some of the ambient temperature so you don't have to apply as much direct heat.
I remember looking in to this a few years ago and it seems High schools and Universities have a some sort of a straight heater that is good for bending the stuff. Do you know any teachers that could help ?
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02 July 2007, 21:11
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernow
Hugh
not an expert but I've had a play, I found 3mm Lexan to be really easy to bend into shape with a hot air gun even taking on a bend of up to 90 degrees was no problem, I applied heat for no more than a minute or so and away she went, having tried that I bought a sheet of 6mm and found it a real sod in comparison, I thought I took my time over heating it but couldn't get it to bend without getting it really hot and by then I'd managed to burn some air bubbles into it, where I'd applied heat had gone misty as well. I was still trying to get a bend of 90 degrees and although I succeeded it looked crap!
It's still in my garage if you want it.
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Maybe the heat was too localised? Holding it in front of a gas heater or similar may have been better.
I have heated smaller bits in a fan oven so that I could mould/form them - windscreen may be a bit big for that though!!!
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02 July 2007, 21:16
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
MMSI: 235050131
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,931
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Could you use hot water ?
Maybe a big tub of the stuff. Heat slowly and keep trying to bend. As soon as you have your bend remove the heat.
Just an idea. Might be another stupid one though.
With all these ideas sounds like trying to keep the plastic from frosting is going to be the key.
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02 July 2007, 21:19
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#7
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
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Also found a couple of these.
The real way to bend acrylic is with water-cooled heat pipes.
A long heat element is exposed on one side - the top - while all other three sides are hollow steel pipe with water running through it.
here it is in profile.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...icheatbend.gif
You set your jig up, lay the sheet acrylic over the top and a line is heated through. then you get a long block of wood or metal with a square edge and bend the acrylic over it, ever-so slightly over bending it. Keep the acrylic in this position after bending it, keeping the squaring jig set up.
The rounding will happen naturally as it is an inherent property of acrylic.
To get more sharper corners, you can score the underside of the sheet with a circular saw or router set up under a bench. This will weaken the acrylic and make it more difficult to bend without snapping or breaking.
The main thing you need is care.
Of course this isn't at all helpful, because you want to do it at home.
Anyway it shouldn't get cracks or discolouring if it is quality acrylic: methyl methacrylate.
You may however get small bubbles forming within the acrylic if it is heated too much too quickly.
If you are going to try it i'd suggest doing it like Rybags has explained above, but make sure that the heat is only applied to a small section of acrylic. You can 'mask' the acrylic with wooden blocks so that only the exposed area will be heated. In addition to this, peel off the masking paper only on the area that you will be heating, on both sides of the acrylic. I suggest using a long metal ruler or straight edge to tear it away.
Maintaining a straight edge - after bending, keep the sheet in the jig until it is cooled. It is very important to maintain the pressure on the bend, on both sides.
Maintaning the bend: acrylic is a thermoplastic which retains it's shape after heating and reforming. Other plastics are less forgiving. Simply make sure that the bend is done right in the first place, and let the acrylic cool of it's own accord. Don't muck with the heating or cooling too much or you will warp it.
here is an image i googled that could help.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...crybending.jpg
It's a pretty good way of setting up a bending jig. You could use a smaller diameter round bar, but the acrylic is naturally going to form a small radius even when bent around a square edge. Don't go *too* square though, as it might dent the acrylic.
Like I said you'd want to clamp heavy square-shaped stuff around it after it has been bent in order to maintain it's shape while it cools.
http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=18&t=3864
I lay no claim to any of this. Just wanted to pass the info on.
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02 July 2007, 21:21
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cornwall
Length: no boat
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon
question...did you apply the heat gun directly to the material or did you point it away a bit, how hot did you get the stuff
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On the first bit (3mm) pointed it away and gradually came closer moving along the seam of the intended crease, also applied heat from below, all of a sudden it started to bend so I kept on with the heat, pushed down with my other hand and away it went to a nice clear 90 degree bend.
So brimming with confidence tried the same with the 6mm and basically was too impatient, ended up with the nozzle all but touching the surface and was whacking heat into it far too quickly, managed to melt my rubber glove, burn the table, scorch the lexan and then it bent, if I was to try again I'd have 2 heat guns on it as the 6mm seemed to lose heat as I moved arond it, as I said initially though Hugh I was after a right angled bend, a gentle curve would have been easier.
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02 July 2007, 21:23
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cornwall
Length: no boat
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn
Maybe the heat was too localised? Holding it in front of a gas heater or similar may have been better.
I have heated smaller bits in a fan oven so that I could mould/form them - windscreen may be a bit big for that though!!!
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Yes t'was Codders, not sure I could have held it by a heater, the 6mm really was very hot before it gave.
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02 July 2007, 21:40
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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02 July 2007, 21:50
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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I think its all about the heat wicking away on the thicker stuff. I think the best way is to get some general heat in to the panel and then perhaps a heat gun to do the localised stuff.
I intend to use a Halogen heater first covered with two peices of steel to first focus the heat into a measured width (similar to what Biggles was saying), generally heating the ares either side with the heat comming off the steel sheet.Lay the sheet over the top for a period. Take the sheet and bend it over the former to the correct angle.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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02 July 2007, 22:11
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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some good hints and tips here for me to try.....tanks
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02 July 2007, 22:31
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernow
On the first bit (3mm) pointed it away and gradually came closer moving along the seam of the intended crease, also applied heat from below, all of a sudden it started to bend so I kept on with the heat, pushed down with my other hand and away it went to a nice clear 90 degree bend.
So brimming with confidence tried the same with the 6mm and basically was too impatient, ended up with the nozzle all but touching the surface and was whacking heat into it far too quickly, managed to melt my rubber glove, burn the table, scorch the lexan and then it bent, if I was to try again I'd have 2 heat guns on it as the 6mm seemed to lose heat as I moved arond it, as I said initially though Hugh I was after a right angled bend, a gentle curve would have been easier.
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You should have that arse as a former. Lay the screen out on the sofa, drop those cheeks on there for the duration of Eastenders and Hey Presto! A split screen with a couple of perfect 90's!
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02 July 2007, 22:36
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: cornwall
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Make: rib eye 430
Length: 4m +
Engine: tatsu 50
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I just removed the signwriting from my old van with a powerful hairdryer . I was surprised how much heat you could get into it over quite a big area , maybe worth a try to keep the area up to temp.
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02 July 2007, 22:44
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
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Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian parkes
I just removed the signwriting from my old van with a powerful hairdryer . I was surprised how much heat you could get into it over quite a big area , maybe worth a try to keep the area up to temp.
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Why do you own a hairdrier Parkesy?
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02 July 2007, 23:04
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: cornwall
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Length: 4m +
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
Why do you own a hairdrier Parkesy?
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Yes it was don't think the soup dragon would allow me to use hers
I have also go 2 irons in the workshop but they never iron clothes
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02 July 2007, 23:05
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
You should have that arse as a former. Lay the screen out on the sofa, drop those cheeks on there for the duration of Eastenders and Hey Presto! A split screen with a couple of perfect 90's!
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but the screen is only 4 ft long, would it reach the end of his arse cheeks?
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02 July 2007, 23:14
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
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Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian parkes
I have also go 2 irons in the workshop but they never iron clothes
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They must be soldering irons then....
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02 July 2007, 23:26
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: cornwall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
They must be soldering irons then....
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No same thing the women use to burn holes in clothes , honest
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03 July 2007, 00:22
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
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For use when applying edging to laminates?
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