Newly purchased used Rib: A few questions

[jeffsuwanee]

I was taken to the cleaners this weekend by a guy that sold me a used 2000 Nautica DL11. I guess it's my fault, while I got him down to $3000. for the boat, trailer and 30hp. merc, I don't think I got him down enough.

1. Yesterday when I drove 400 miles to pick up the RIB, it was fully inflated, today, 24 hours later, while it is retaining it's shape, it is noticeably softer, so my first issue is how do I go about finding the leak? Is it even possible to buy new hypalon tubes now that Nautica is out of business?

2. While on the subject of the tubes, they are dirty and worn...is there a definitive answer on this forum as to a cleaner that REALLY work on these tubes without hurting the integrity of them? And for paint? can they be painted, stained, dyed back to white again?

3. Very little of the electronics are working, broken radio, no nav lights, no bilge pump, etc... I'm totally fine with rewiring as much as I need to, but now that Nautica is out of biz, does anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram for this boat?

4. Service manual for the Mercury 2001 Model: 30 ELPTO outboard motor. I can't seem to find a service manual...The top mounted control box is barely functional with the remote tilt/trim not working at all. So I guess I need to find a new control box as well.

Guys any help on any of these subjects would at least help me get started on reconditioning this RIB. While I think I got shafted, I need to look forward and not behind and put it into working order...

Thanks,
Jeff

[jyasaki]

Hi, Jeff;

See if we can take this in order:

1) If it was warm when you looked at the boat, and cool (or cold) when you noticed teh deflation, it could be due to lower temperature increasing air density, thus reducing pressure. If not, load up a garden sprayer (hand-pumped tank with a spray wand) with a soap and water mix and have at the tubes; leaks will show up as a mass of bubbles. Replacement tubes would likely need to be custom made (not really unusual.)

2) Nothing easy, as far as I've found. Our UK guys swear to something called Traffic Film Remover (TFR), but that's not available here; closest thing is apparently a pressure washer detergent. Do a search on here for TFR for usage.

3) Wiring diagram is likely a wild goose chase; boats typically are not wired up as a standard setup like cars are. Luckily, the boats wiring is typically pretty simple: most electronics get a +12V and Ground connection, and dedicated cabling (VHF antenna, depth transducer, GPS antenna, etc) comprises the rest.

4) Service manual should be available on-line, for a price, or your local Merc dealer should be able to order a paper copy. Tilt/Trim control is simple: 12V gets switched to one or another solenoid (up or down.) A bit of poking around with a voltmeter should ID your problem. Control problems are likely cables; disconnecting the steering cables at the motor and checking what moves and what doesn't is a good start.

Hope this helps;

jky

[Poly]

Originally Posted by jeffsuwanee

I was taken to the cleaners this weekend by a guy that sold me a used 2000 Nautica DL11. I guess it's my fault, while I got him down to $3000. for the boat, trailer and 30hp. merc, I don't think I got him down enough.

you are probably being a bit unfair there. It doesn't sound like he'd ripped you off (esp since US rib prices are higher than UK ones. I assume you had the opportunity to inspect before buying. Its quite common for buyers to get carried away (especially with a long drive) - but that is not the vendor's fault.

1. Yesterday when I drove 400 miles to pick up the RIB, it was fully inflated, today, 24 hours later, while it is retaining it's shape, it is noticeably softer, so my first issue is how do I go about finding the leak?

As jky says this could just be temp fluctuation.

Is it even possible to buy new hypalon tubes now that Nautica is out of business?

yes - but they won't be cheap - even in the UK you'd be looking at at least the same amount of money again. Most minor leaks can be fixed though.

2. While on the subject of the tubes, they are dirty and worn...is there a definitive answer on this forum as to a cleaner that REALLY work on these tubes without hurting the integrity of them?

TFR is one answer (but apparently not available on your side of the pond). It is a caustic based cleaner used for cleaning trucks etc. Other people have reported good results with CIF - a cream cleaner (from Unilever) which contains tiny gritty particles. Not sure if it is available in the US. If they are really bad then wiping with solvent may be the best option. I'd give them a really good scrub first though. There are various options for solvents but probably the cheapest is "gunwash" used by vehicle spray painters to clean their equipment. Search the forum for gunwash or gun wash for tips.

And for paint? can they be painted, stained, dyed back to white again?

yes you can paint tubes with special paint - but it should be an absolute last resort - its not long lasting, devalues the boat, and generally isn't a great idea.

[jeffsuwanee]

Appreciate the the very thorough responses guys. Both tubes are down equally so maybe it is a temp. thing. I will run the soapy water spray though in a few days, and see if I co,e up with anything. Hopefully, I migh get a few stateside responses as well for the cleaning products.

On anoter note... I have some rubber strake seperation begining in a few areas...while I have read that 2402 is the best solution, that product is unavailable in the states...any other suggestions for a steong contact cement to sure these areas up?

Thank you,
Jeff

[Tim M]

Your apparent leak could even be dodgy values. These are pretty easy to fix - spare parts are available from a host of online retailers both in the UK and US.

With regards your control box for the engine; these have a habit of becoming stiff if not used for a while or lubricated. They're pretty easy to take apart, clean up and lubricate with grease. If that doesn't work the control cables may need replacing, again a pretty easy task (an hour or two at most) and cheap to buy online/ebay etc.

Your non working switch again is pretty easy to replace once you've got the cover off the box. It might not be the switch - there are couple of connections between the switch and the hydraulic pump - it might be something as simple as a plug/connector that's come undone or loose.

Doesn't sound like you've been shafted. For the price you've paid I wouldn't be too unhappy with what you've got. With a weekends work you could well have a really nice RIB which will provide years of fun

[jeffsuwanee]

Thanks Tim...I still have a solid mont before the weather becomes great here, so I'm fine with doing much of this work myself....
Aprreciate the response

[9D280]

Jeff,

Microfiches on here:
Mercury Outboard Parts by HP / Serial Range
never used them as a suipplier, but if you need a pretty pic of what you are about to dismantle....

Here has an electronic manual for most:
Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years!
....just make sure you are on a meaty data connection first!



Ref. the stiff throttle/ gear - disconnect the cable starting from the engine end & see if it improves. The cables do wear out & get "heavy" after a while. Relatively cheap to replace. I also when I got mine took the entire remotes to bits & cleaned out a ton of old salinated dry grease. A suitable coating of Yamlube & a new set of cables I can now work it on fingertips.

Electrics -you'll find wiring diagrams online for the engine. What the previous owner / installer dis wit hthe anxciliary kit is anyone's guess, but as electrics do corrode it's probably worth if you are in any doubt about the wiring and have the abiliy to do it yourself to rip the whole lot out & start again.


Any idea the ambient temp where you picked it up form Vs whare you are now? (and has it dropped any further since?)

- Steer clear of toob paint unless as an absolute last resort. I'm still fighting with the previous to the previous owner's painting exploits..... Painting the console etc no problem - IF you make a decent job of the surface preparation.