Osprey Vipermax Hull - Page 2

willk · 23 April 2012, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

How does one man satisfy the whole of Europe with Osprey hulls and still have time to do his other grp work?

A little go a long way?

starnetman2001 · 23 April 2012, 22:47

I'd be tempted to take some deck up above it personally. Then I could have a poke around and see how bad it is.

After that I'd cut out the bad and make a mould over the hole, gel coat up to it and repair from deck side.

Dosnt have to be a big hole. I have a friend who's a gynaecologist and he can decorate his hall through his letterbox.

D

Bigmuz7 · 23 April 2012, 22:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by starnetman2001

Dosnt have to be a big hole. I have a friend who's a gynaecologist and he can decorate his hall through his letterbox.

D

Thats a bit pervy for Polwart, Mr Rennet and others .... the rest of us are all right .. but those guys have twitchy sphincters ... there .. back on track

Richard Selman · 24 April 2012, 05:53

Baggen,

Did you drill the transom hole up and right through into the void? If you did you might be getting the water that will always be there in small amounts. I think inspection hatches are now fitted in the deck as standard but I had to fit one to my VM have a look. Was surprised at the amount of in there - and my boat lives inside a garage. Your boat looks like it has spent some time afloat. Only get traces of water now.

Richard

Baggen · 24 April 2012, 21:43

Yes, we did drill the small hole to control that the "step" wasn't filled with water and to help the process. Our plan is to fill it up all the way from the hole to the big hole. about 30 cm.

We installed an inspection hatch as well last year because we wanted to repair the damage from above and to remove the water in the hull.

Yes, it is in the water from April to October/November with a break in July to polish the tubes and to clean it.

Chris · 25 April 2012, 19:03

Hi Baggen,

I spoke to Mike today and he confirmed that he would look at the pictures tonight and advise what he thought would be the best option...

He did say that if you could get the boat shipped to Hull on a trailer he could collect it to perform a full repair.

However to give you some ideas..

- Chines are fitted at the third layup. So there should be two layers of glass before the wood is then laminated to the hull.

- There is a product used for sealing ponds that you could paint onto the damp wood that you can then easily glass onto, the product would soak into the wood effectively sealing it.

Something like this I suppose...

Bradshaws Direct - Please enable your cookies

it might be worth trying this and then doind a repair again to see if this works?

Chris

Baggen · 25 April 2012, 20:32

Thats a great idea, didnt know that existed. Thank you!!

Chris · 26 April 2012, 22:37

Hi Baggen

This was the full reply that Mike Whitham sent to me today...

Hello Chris,

Instructions on how to repair damaged hull are as follows;

Endeavour to dry the damp plywood as much as possible with a heat gun, being careful not to damage the gelcoat.

Apply a coat of G4 Pond Sealer.After 24 hours, repeat this process then leave to dry for another 24 hours.

Apply Crystic Bonding Paste(90-78pa) filling the damaged area to just below surface of the hull, using a spatulla or spreader.
This product requires a catalyst.(MEKP50 or equivalent) at 2% volume.If the repair is deep, you may need more than
one application,allowing each layer to cure before applying the next.

Once you have filled the repair to the correct level, once this has set, you can buff it smooth(ish).also the surrounding area will require buffing to allow the fibreglass to stick.

Before applying the fibreglass clean the area with Acetone.

Mask out the area,ensuring that the masking overlaps the buffed area.

Using an appropriate Polyester Resin & Catalyst (MEKP50-2%) apply ,firstly a fibreglass tissue then 2 layers of 450 gramme chopped strand mat & to finish, another tissue,try to avoid overlapping the masking.

Allow to cure for 24 hours.

Remove the masking & buff smooth.

To finish off, you will need to apply a TOPCOAT, using the same ratio catalyst as before.

Your GRP supplier should be able to supply you with a suitable pigmented Topcoat.

nugent · 28 April 2012, 10:11

Mike
as allways atrue gent such a helpfull guy

Oh and bloody highly skilled to hoot

C-NUMB · 28 April 2012, 13:06

Useful information here! One question though, what is "fibreglass tissue", never used that one, as usually first layers has been 300G/m2 CSM.

Jizm · 28 April 2012, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-NUMB

Useful information here! One question though, what is "fibreglass tissue", never used that one, as usually first layers has been 300G/m2 CSM.

Is it this stuff?

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/cgi-local/sh...30_2d_3f_3f_3f

C-NUMB · 29 April 2012, 09:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jizm

Is it this stuff?

Fibreglass Mat & Fabrics, Surface Tissue, - CFS Fibreglass Supplies

Thanks! That make sense, guess much smother surface for finnishing the csm. And not to expensive either!

Baggen · 14 May 2012, 09:37

Thanks a lot to all of you and especially Chris! We are now starting the process of repairing the hull. We removed all the tree instead to make sure that everything will stick as it should.

Thanks again and have a great boating summer!!

Baggen · 11 December 2013, 09:07

Thought we fixed it and everything seemed fine when I inspected it halfway through the summer. When we took it up from the water the crack was there once again...

It doesn't leak through the crack, I just don't like it being there.

Maybe it is easier to remove the entire "step" and just let someone build a new one?

biffer · 11 December 2013, 10:53

If you just ground it out and put Gell back in it will alway crack

Baggen · 11 December 2013, 11:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

If you just ground it out and put Gell back in it will alway crack

So what do you propose?

biffer · 11 December 2013, 11:22

Grind it back and put some mat in it and then Gell over that. I'm going to take a wild guess here and ask if the crack is on the rail where internally the floor sit

Baggen · 11 December 2013, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

Grind it back and put some mat in it and then Gell over that. I'm going to take a wild guess here and ask if the crack is on the rail where internally the floor sit

That's what we tried, first mat inside the hull on the damage and on the outside, then we filled the damage to form the rail with epoxy.

This didn't work and now I'm just afraid that we would make it worse if we do something...

Actually no, there's nothing pushing on that very spot like the "leg" for the floor or anything like that.

This is tricky...

biffer · 11 December 2013, 12:27

Tricky indeed, there is obviously some movement there and without a good look it's hard to second guess, I've had it in the past where I've actually taken a mould off the hull in the damaged area then cut the bad bit completely out, put the mould against it again and started from scratch, again without a look I'm pissing in the wind

Baggen · 12 December 2013, 09:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

Tricky indeed, there is obviously some movement there and without a good look it's hard to second guess, I've had it in the past where I've actually taken a mould off the hull in the damaged area then cut the bad bit completely out, put the mould against it again and started from scratch, again without a look I'm pissing in the wind

Would it help with some pictures of how it looks now? It doesn't look like the damage seen on page 1 as the entire repair hasn't dropped out.