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Old 15 March 2004, 08:55   #41
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Ian, a standard tank should be good for 3 hours. My P22 crossed the channel on a standard tank (just) with the previous owner.

Short term anwser has to be a couple of jerry cans just in case. Towsure doing cheap plastic ones which I keep spare fuel in.

http://www.towsure.com/

Pete

Could have done with a P22 yesterday, spent 9 hours at sea in F7 in a rib with no self bailer
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Old 15 March 2004, 09:28   #42
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Re: pac22

Quote:
Originally posted by Paul F
When i was driving one (whilst in forces) on long hauls we had the john wayne saddle bag type tanks to go over the tubes.
Paul how did this work? Were they plumbed in to the engine or did you pump them across? What size were they and did you just hang them over the tube or was there a fixing?

Ian
At WOT with an average load (5-6 people and kit) I get 1NM per Litre, using the ODO on the GPS I fill every 50NM just to be on the safe side (50% reserve). ODO is distance over ground which does not take into account wind / tide etc so sometime I've used more than expected, that when the bambo stick comes into play


On the special ops plug on the side of the console what voltage do you get? My one reads 12v but this might be due to poor contact.
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Old 15 March 2004, 11:34   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pete7
The throttle control box however is cheap and tacky so you should consider changing this for something better.
Pete What did you fit?
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Old 15 March 2004, 14:19   #44
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Big ali and stainless one from Vetus. Brilliant bit of kit, easy to make even very small changes in revs and doesn't slip. They do a side mount version if you are keeping the standard console but I put the top mount version in the middle of a double console.

Spent Sunday out in the Solent (now called the roaring forties after the weather) using a very nice Solent Rib but it had a mercury control box which was awful.

Pete
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Old 15 March 2004, 21:49   #45
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special ops plug

Hi Des
I have not tried the plugs yet, i have to fit a kill cord as part of my insurance, so will go through the electrics then, there is one on the side of the engine box and i know that don't work, cos there are no wires going to it.

Pete
the Vetus tank you fitted did you have any prob with the filler and did you use the origonal one, did you put in a fuel gauge and sender.

Went out Saturday for a play Torbay wasn't to bad, but thought i would have a look, was doing about 28 knts went around the corner and SSSSSHHH******TTT, took off on the first wave and it seamed ages went past before it touched the water again, it was probibly about 3/4 sec enough time for me to look side ways and see a big hole where there should be water and i wish i was stood up, it Fkin hurt.
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Old 15 March 2004, 23:28   #46
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Ian, no I ditched the original one and used the vetus tank kit which works well and has all the pipe fitting you need in one unit.
It was also quite cheap compared to having one made up and its plastic so no corrosion worries providing its securely mounted.

How are you going to fit a kill switch to a mechanical fuel pump ?
Mine doesn't have one but I think the RN one is a solenoid connected to a flap valve which shuts air off from the turbo inlet, but they are not cheap and require a bit of engineering to fit. Best person to speak to would be Cyril at Mermaid but he wasn't enthusiastic about them when we discussed them on the engine course.


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Old 16 March 2004, 08:46   #47
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kill switch

Ian
I have the original RN kill cord which works surprisingly well. Pete is right there is a flap that closes over the air inlet and stops the engine breathing. I am told that it also closes if the boat is inverted; I haven’t tried this because I’m not ****ing stupid . On the opposite side of the console from the fuel filler there should be the sprung loaded kill switch. On my one this operates a solenoid which closes the flat.
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:16   #48
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Hi guys
i have the flap and solinoid fitted to the engine and the spring loaded switch in the little grey box, but none of it works, the only other thing that could be done, is to move the solinoid to the stop lever A LA volvo, then you could have a electrical stop instead of the cable, i realy think i should sort somthing out as i go out on my own mostly.

After i posted the fuel tank question i realised what a t**t i was, there was not a problem with you fitting because you changed your whole consul.
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:30   #49
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Ian
I know the solenoid that operates the flap can go wrong (I had to get a new one) It should read 24v with the kill switch closed. Mermaid does sell this item. What number is your boat?
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:31   #50
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Agreed if they can be fitted they are a good idea, saved the life of one member of ribnet more than once in the past year!

Guys, Any chance of a pic or two of these flap valves ? so I can see whats involved.

Pete
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:42   #51
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What number is your boat?

Hi
9124
It is not the thought of falling out i fell is the problem, it's two ton of boat traveling at 30 knts with no opperator (probibly safer than with me behind the wheel).

I am going to the marina today, so i will take some pics for you.
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:49   #52
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Pete
Not the best photo, just one I had hanging around, but it show the flap in red, the top of the solenoid middle bottom, the turbo of to the left connected by two jubilees and a rubber hose. There is a second latching solenoid in the console which means you have to switch off and on to re-engage. Des
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Old 16 March 2004, 09:53   #53
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Ian
Just found the solenoid number it is a Knowles Electronics 150224c6u1b1s1.
Des
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Old 16 March 2004, 15:49   #54
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Pete
i have taken some photos of the flap and the rib, but when i tried to send as atachment sent it back as to big, i am not the best with computers, but i do not have a photo minipulation package since i had my computer repaired, they wiped it out and didn't reinstal.
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Old 16 March 2004, 17:13   #55
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Ian A, If I remember correctly, JK has a link for freebie image manipulation software in his thread about posting pictures.
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Old 16 March 2004, 18:44   #56
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kill flap

another pic i've just got
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Old 16 March 2004, 22:37   #57
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Another question, do they work ? anyone tried it ?

Pete
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Old 16 March 2004, 23:19   #58
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do they work ?

Pete
although mine is not connected, while the engine was ticking over i fliped it down, the engine didn't stop but was very close to it, tried to pull it open again but couldn't shift it, had to stop the engine an then it fliped back on it's own, there is a very small hole in the flap, which is for what, f**k knows, i would imagine that if this was activated at full speed it would be like hitting a brick wall, with a petrol engine it just kills the spark, this seals off the air so the engine would stop very quickly, might smoke a bit as well.
There is also an up side to this arangement, the turbo would be forced to slow down quickly and would not be spinning like the clappers with the engine is stopped and no oil being pumped around.
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Old 17 March 2004, 01:10   #59
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Pete, I may have a spare complete assembly if you want one. Dont want anything for it (if i can find it!) Sometimes they have been connected in with the alarm so they also shut down the engine in case of fire.

The circuit is very simple if you dont have it already. The hole is so it can spring back up easily without getting a partial vacuum & to not stop the engine too quickly.

The other way as you will know is a mechanical stop solenoid on the pump .

I remember seeing a similar solenoid on a p22 last year which was very efficient, it stopped the engine dead in seconds, in fact, so quickly we removed it because we thought it may damage the engine !
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Old 17 March 2004, 08:29   #60
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It works

One of the kids pulled out the kill cord while we were doing about 10 knots and the engine stopped so gentle I didn’t realise what had happened. It re-started fine. I was told there is a mercury switch in the circuit some where which stops the engine if you capsize, I haven’t found it but what Neville says makes sense because with the early development of this boat Halmatic were very worried about engine fires caused by the turbo hence the port hole and access point in the engine cover
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