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31 October 2005, 23:11
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#1
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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Permanent Moorings
How do you guys attach your RIb securley to a permanant mooring? My moorings not in the most sheltered water so we get a bit of wind and waves. my last boat we attached one hook to the bow eye and tied a line to the cleat ontop of the boat, but i doubt that will work with the RIB
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02 November 2005, 02:21
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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i guess u UKers dont use moorings?..
.....no wonder we won the Revolutionary War
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02 November 2005, 08:31
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes
Length: 8m +
Engine: 225 Opti
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 551
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?
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02 November 2005, 08:31
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes
Length: 8m +
Engine: 225 Opti
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 551
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I guess we do... maybe this will help.
Helping simple folk
The words common and sense spring to mind.
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02 November 2005, 08:37
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopppywaters
i guess u UKers dont use moorings?..
.....no wonder we won the Revolutionary War
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Yes we do Chops, we find them very effective for incurring damage to our boats and having equipment stolen. You miss out on all the fun in those fancy marinas.
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02 November 2005, 08:53
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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No some of us do have permanent moorings, just didn’t see your post.
From the top of the mooring buoy swivel I have 10mm chain going up to the bow ‘D’ ring which is also 10mm dia rod in a 50mm radius.
I use two hooks or karabiners on the ‘D’ ring one in each direction, this should stop them coming undone by mistake
From the mooring buoy swivel I also run a 30mm dia rope that goes loosely over the tubes to the forward deck cleat, by keeping this loose it doesn’t mark the tubes but if the ‘D’ ring should fail this is back up
As too the sinker and sub sea bits and bobs, I have a large lorry (truck) tyre I filled with steel and concrete ( 500kgs) and dug into the mud at very low tide. Digging it in effectively doubles its weight but it is not a job for the fainthearted
Mouse any shackles with a cable tie because they do come undone, replace the rope every other year and check the chain annually, you will be amazed how quickly it rots Don’t use stainless underwater it's cr**
Divide everything by 25.4 to get imperial measurements or whatever you call your inches
Des
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02 November 2005, 21:34
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#7
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
No some of us do have permanent moorings, just didn’t see your post.
From the top of the mooring buoy swivel I have 10mm chain going up to the bow ‘D’ ring which is also 10mm dia rod in a 50mm radius.
I use two hooks or karabiners on the ‘D’ ring one in each direction, this should stop them coming undone by mistake
From the mooring buoy swivel I also run a 30mm dia rope that goes loosely over the tubes to the forward deck cleat, by keeping this loose it doesn’t mark the tubes but if the ‘D’ ring should fail this is back up
As too the sinker and sub sea bits and bobs, I have a large lorry (truck) tyre I filled with steel and concrete ( 500kgs) and dug into the mud at very low tide. Digging it in effectively doubles its weight but it is not a job for the fainthearted
Mouse any shackles with a cable tie because they do come undone, replace the rope every other year and check the chain annually, you will be amazed how quickly it rots Don’t use stainless underwater it's cr**
Divide everything by 25.4 to get imperial measurements or whatever you call your inches
Des
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Thank you, this was more than useful unlike Rodin who gave me a website for knots?.....
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03 November 2005, 09:05
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Blimey Des, you've got half a chandlery shop and most of Snow and Rock chucked in the sea! . In Falmouth we use a half tonne granite lump with a hole drilled in it, 1" steel bar bolted through with an eye at one end, 50ft of 2" mild steel chain, two shackles, a bit of rope and a pick-up bouy. Perfect.
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03 November 2005, 11:03
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollulnan
...... In Falmouth we use a half tonne granite lump with a hole drilled in it,.........50ft of 2" mild steel chain, two shackles, a bit of rope and a pick-up bouy...Perfect...
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Perfect NO it’ll cause you problems
The reason for the mooring buoy is that the bit of chain you are attaching to the boat is effectively only 6’ long as opposed to the 50’ (and 50kg ? )in your set up, 6’ of chain is very easy to handle
Without a swivel in the mooring chain if the boat repeatedly turns in one direction (which they seem to ) it will wind the mooring chain up I’ve seen this happen when someone (OK it was me Doh) attached a line to the chain below the swivel after a week the rope was so wound up the only way we could remove it was to cut it off in bits, the mooring buoy then spent the next few minutes spinning in the water
The reason I use karabiners is that they are less fiddly than a shackle when you have cold hands and the rope is back up if they or the d ring fails.
I’d love a lump of granite but it costs the earth up here whereas lorry tyres are free.
The only other thing I need on my mooring is a boy scout with an air rifle to shoot the Bl**dy sea gulls who insist on using my boat as a toilet Maybe next year funds permitting Des
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03 November 2005, 12:34
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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I agree. A friend of mine has fifteen moorings and I help him service them once a year. On a very big spring tide we can just reach for them with drysuits on. We put on the minimum and the people that rent them kinda customise them according to their boat type. Me? I'm snuggled up in the marina. Not padlocked, double chained and welded to the pontoon as some members seem to think necessary As for gull culling? Oouh, very emotive subject on here. I love'em! I like to leave food all over my Rib to encourage the little loves to shite all over it!!
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03 November 2005, 14:32
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Massachusetts
Boat name: Tibs
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP O/B 4 stroke
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
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Mooring
Hey Choppy,
I keep my RIB on a mooring most of the season as well. Most moorings have two pennants. (Chain not necessary in most areas)
One pennant clips to your bow eye using a stainless quick release shackle. The other pennant should be about 4 feet longer, depending on the size of your RIB. This pennant simply lies over the tube and attaches to the cleat on deck.
Good luck with the new RIB!
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03 November 2005, 20:22
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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Sounds goood.
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03 November 2005, 20:30
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#13
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Member
Country: Other
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibs
Hey Choppy,
I keep my RIB on a mooring most of the season as well. Most moorings have two pennants. (Chain not necessary in most areas)
One pennant clips to your bow eye using a stainless quick release shackle. The other pennant should be about 4 feet longer, depending on the size of your RIB. This pennant simply lies over the tube and attaches to the cleat on deck.
Good luck with the new RIB!
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Don't forget to stick a wear patch on the tube where the mooring line touches/crosses, especially in areas where you get waves/current/tides, else you'll get abrasions on your nice shiny toobs!
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03 November 2005, 20:37
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#14
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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couldnt u just put some kind of tape or something on the rope instead of the tubes?
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03 November 2005, 20:59
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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A piece of hosepipe works quite well - just put stopper knots either end to stop it slipping.
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03 November 2005, 21:01
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#16
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Member
Country: Other
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopppywaters
couldnt u just put some kind of tape or something on the rope instead of the tubes?
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Nice idea, but you'd still mark your tubes. It doesn't have to look ugly, and whatever you do one side should be repeated on the other. You could double it up as a ribbed non-slip step for passengers boarding (although it's really never a good idea to step on the tubes too much, both for safety and wear reasons) Mine has coloured PVC "flashes" shaped and complimentary coloured to take care of rope wear. It'll really only be a problem if you got a lot of boat movement on your mooring.
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04 November 2005, 08:48
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hard1
Don't forget to stick a wear patch on the tube where the mooring line touches/crosses, especially in areas where you get waves/current/tides, else you'll get abrasions on your nice shiny toobs!
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This is only an issue if the ropes are tight
if you leave the ropes loose and let the bow eye do the work then it isn’t a problem
Incidentally if you do have to run a tight rope over the tube, putting the rope through a length of lay-flat hose is ideal and more flexible than hose pipe Des
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05 November 2005, 13:05
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#18
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Massachusetts
Boat name: Tibs
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP O/B 4 stroke
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 40
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I agree Des. As long as the back-up line is loose, it won't mark up the tube. No worries. Don't hesitate to make it longer than you think you need. It's only a backup.
You most likely won't board the boat from the bow. And Hypalon is great, so don't worry about stepping on the tube when boarding. Just respect it.
Also, be sure to keep your tubes as hard as possible, always. Even in storage.
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05 November 2005, 13:56
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#19
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Member
Country: USA
Boat name: Thalassa
Make: RIBCRAFT
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda 115 4 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 369
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Quick question....say the boat is on a mooring and one day its like 70 degrees (farenhit) and the next day its 90 (Farenhit) and then the next day it goes back to 70 will i need to pump up the tubes because of the pressure relief valves? Thanks
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05 November 2005, 14:31
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Barmouth
Boat name: Blue Marlin
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yanmar 315/Bravo 2X
MMSI: 235020218
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopppywaters
Quick question....say the boat is on a mooring and one day its like 70 degrees (farenhit) and the next day its 90 (Farenhit) and then the next day it goes back to 70 will i need to pump up the tubes because of the pressure relief valves? Thanks
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Possibly. If we have a spell of cooler weather, I will put some more air in the tubes. I'd rather have the PRVs and not worry when the sun comes out...(not very often just recently...)
My tubes are dark blue - sun on them makes a big difference.
D...
P.S. My mooring is two anchors on chain, going up to a mooring bouy with a swivel. Mooring chain comes off the top of the bouy, pick-up bouy attached with a rope to the mooring chain. Carabiner to secure the chain to the d-bolt, painter goes loosely through the mooring chain and back on board to the cleat on deck. Hand bouy rope also secured at cleat (loosely draped over tubes).
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