Pictures of my new RIB: 19' Novurania

jlcanterbury · 09 September 2009, 06:49

Finally got around to snapping a few photos of my new RIB... It is a 19' Novurania

Got the boat for what I feel was a great deal $1,600 USD. 85HP 2 stroke Yamaha runs perfect and very strong, tubes don't look great, but hold air just fine. Overall good condition, just needs some cosmetic work! It's my first RIB and I am loving it so far!

I actually purchased the boat at the beginning of summer, took the pics here in the middle of some repairs I am making to exposed fabric and bad patchwork (to cover exposed fabric) on the tubes. Since the purchase I added the seat/cooler/livewell and re-coated the deck.

let me know what you think, is it as good of a deal as I was hoping for?

I am considering using SRC Tuff coat to re-coat the tubes, but am a little hesitant to paint the tubes, any advice? Also, as you can see the bumper has come off on the rear part on both sides, does anybody know where I could purchase a new rubber bumper, or know the best adhesive to use to re attach the piece that I have? (i have clifton hypalon adhesive, will that work fine?)

Jizm · 09 September 2009, 07:04

Nice boat and a bargain too.(less than £1k sterling)

The rubbing strake (bumper) is a relatively simple job to replace.

jyasaki · 09 September 2009, 16:26

$1600 with motor and trailer? Sounds like a steal to me.

Have fun with her;

jky

jlcanterbury · 10 September 2009, 01:23

yup, $1600 for the RIB, motor, and trailer.

Any ideas where I can buy replacement rubbing strake/bumper material?

learning to fly · 10 September 2009, 02:59

An unbelieveable buy, good jog there, those are high quality boats. DO NOT PAINT THE TUBES !!!!!!!!!!!!!.

jlcanterbury · 13 September 2009, 01:16

i am trying to "recondition" the tubes as best as I can. Are there any alternatives other than placing a patch or using "tuff coat" over areas where the hypalon has exposed fabric...?

prairie tuber · 13 September 2009, 01:51

That was an ubelievably great price for that rig!!! The deal didn't require any bodies to be hidden anywhere, did it?

jyasaki · 13 September 2009, 06:06

Sorry, didn't see the rubbing strake question.

Rubbing strake is often EPDM, as I recall. Any solvent based contact adhesive should work at least okay, but you may (and that's a definite "may") want to look into using Zodiac Universal glue (or the Weaver analog of that stuff; don't have the number handy, but it's a polyurethane/chloroprene adhesive.) As with all inflatable boat glue repairs, surface prep is everything.

Start by thoroughly roughing up the mating surfaces (place the strake on the tube and use something to trace the area so you know where to work on.) All old glue should be removed, and the surface should be non-shiny at the least, and really ragged at the best. Use coarse grit sandpaper or even a metal roughing rasp (as used on inner tube repairs.) Do not go so deep as to expose the fabric underneath the hypalon layer however.

Wipe both surfaces down with MEK, Toluene, or Acetone, and let it air dry for ten or fifteen minutes, then follow the glue directions for application. Normally two coats allowed to thoroughly dry (20 to 60 minutes between coats), then a third allowed to dry until just non-tacky (5 to 10 minutes.) Carefully align the pieces (you won't get a second chance), and press them into place. Use all the pressure you can get on the pieces. If it's thin, you can deflate the tubes and sort of fold the hypalon, clamping the strake between two pieces of lumber (don't crease the hypalon, rather, leave a free edge where it turns back on itself.)

You have an advantage over someone doing, say, a patch, as the bond just has to hold together rather than hold air. If your bond fails, it looks ugly but doesn't really hurt anything,

Anyway, I would suggest trying to reglue the existing if you have it. Replacing the whole strake would be a pretty big job.

Hope this helps;

jky

prairie tuber · 13 September 2009, 14:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Sorry, didn't see the rubbing strake question.

Rubbing strake is often EPDM, as I recall. Any solvent based contact adhesive should work at least okay, but you may (and that's a definite "may") want to look into using Zodiac Universal glue (or the Weaver analog of that stuff; don't have the number handy, but it's a polyurethane/chloroprene adhesive.) As with all inflatable boat glue repairs, surface prep is everything.

Start by thoroughly roughing up the mating surfaces (place the strake on the tube and use something to trace the area so you know where to work on.) All old glue should be removed, and the surface should be non-shiny at the least, and really ragged at the best. Use coarse grit sandpaper or even a metal roughing rasp (as used on inner tube repairs.) Do not go so deep as to expose the fabric underneath the hypalon layer however.

Wipe both surfaces down with MEK, Toluene, or Acetone, and let it air dry for ten or fifteen minutes, then follow the glue directions for application. Normally two coats allowed to thoroughly dry (20 to 60 minutes between coats), then a third allowed to dry until just non-tacky (5 to 10 minutes.) Carefully align the pieces (you won't get a second chance), and press them into place. Use all the pressure you can get on the pieces. If it's thin, you can deflate the tubes and sort of fold the hypalon, clamping the strake between two pieces of lumber (don't crease the hypalon, rather, leave a free edge where it turns back on itself.)

You have an advantage over someone doing, say, a patch, as the bond just has to hold together rather than hold air. If your bond fails, it looks ugly but doesn't really hurt anything,

Anyway, I would suggest trying to reglue the existing if you have it. Replacing the whole strake would be a pretty big job.

Hope this helps;

jky

...that's what I meant to say.

jlcanterbury · 16 September 2009, 03:09

thank you for the through response! I hope I can get to work soon, the humidity has been too high here to work with any of the 2 part adhesives I have...