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19 February 2015, 18:12
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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Pipe bender!!!
Something I've wanted for quite sometime....
I pulled it out the corner of Biffer's man cave and cleaned it up.
Got the formers for some small stuff plus 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" but it will bend 2" if I can find/buy a former for it
Bought it off Biff so it'll be on it's way to my man cave soon.
Awesome!![
ATTACH]102979[/ATTACH]
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19 February 2015, 18:17
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bromsgrove
Boat name: Kick-Ass !
Make: PAC/Artic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 250hp Yamaha
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,577
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He does keep some gear hidden in that there cave
It's about time I called down for a cuppa and a chin wag
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MY BIGGEST WORRY IS THAT MY WIFE(WHEN I"M DEAD)WILL SELL MY TOY'S FOR WHAT I SAID I PAID FOR THEM.
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19 February 2015, 21:08
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper
Something I've wanted for quite sometime....
I pulled it out the corner of Biffer's man cave and cleaned it up.
Got the formers for some small stuff plus 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" but it will bend 2" if I can find/buy a former for it
Bought it off Biff so it'll be on it's way to my man cave soon.
Awesome!![
ATTACH]102979[/ATTACH] Attachment 102980
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Most of the successful RIB makers leave the Stainless work to the speciallists Mate ![wink](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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19 February 2015, 21:51
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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For repeat production work but less for one off jobs.
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20 February 2015, 06:04
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
Most of the successful RIB makers leave the Stainless work to the speciallists Mate ![wink](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif) ![big grin](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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Kick him in the nuts, all these specialists weren't born with welding masks on, I can remember my first plat with a TIG set, he will do just fine, I've given him a bin full of off cuts to play with, the best bit of advice would be, make the joints as close fitting as possible before you weld
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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20 February 2015, 07:33
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gloucestershire
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 342
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Its a walk in the park bending pipe, for any ex-Gasman.
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20 February 2015, 07:40
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
Most of the successful RIB makers leave the Stainless work to the speciallists Mate ![wink](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif) ![big grin](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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No wonder they are so expensive then if there are two people's margins involved.
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20 February 2015, 09:15
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
No wonder they are so expensive then if there are two people's margins involved.
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One reason.
.....of quite a few!
__________________
A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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20 February 2015, 09:18
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
Kick him in the nuts, all these specialists weren't born with welding masks on, I can remember my first plat with a TIG set, he will do just fine, I've given him a bin full of off cuts to play with, the best bit of advice would be, make the joints as close fitting as possible before you weld
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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He knows where I'm coming from Biff ![thumbs up](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/thumbs.gif)
Better on a Forum than in your Bank Ballance Mate!
__________________
A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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20 February 2015, 16:06
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Bank?, pocket!
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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20 February 2015, 18:55
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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Yum yum - 1.5 & 2" bends
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20 February 2015, 20:15
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,053
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The old school equipment is often far better built than the new stuff ![smilie](https://www.rib.net/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif) Nice score!
I wish I had a pipe bender sometimes. I do have an air over hydraulic tubing bender, with a 6" clr die, to bend 1.75" DOM for roll cages, shock hoops, receiver hitches, and chassis parts. TIG welding on fish mouths is something I struggle with. My best advice is don't drink coffee LOL
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21 February 2015, 07:51
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#13
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper
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What wall thickness is the tube ?
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21 February 2015, 07:58
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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Pipe bender!!!
I'm not there now but biffer will know
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21 February 2015, 08:56
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Most pipe is 1.5 mm wall, you can get thicker wall but that's the norm, that pipe bender is brutal it will bend 6 mm wall
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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23 February 2015, 04:50
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,109
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Pipe bending with multiple bends is an art form, hats off to anyone who can make a proper job of it.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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23 February 2015, 06:35
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#17
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Pipe bending with multiple bends is an art form, hats off to anyone who can make a proper job of it.
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Actually it is not that hard with some proper equipment and more importantly technique. There are tricks like mark the start of the bend position for each die and know how many degrees your spring back is. One can layout their design on the floor in chalk or crayon, in full scale. A high quality digital degree meter with a clamp is the end all tool to bending anything, especially on multiple planes. Of course knowing how to use a tape measure is necessary. Autocad is good if you know how to use, but for roll cages, tube chassis etc, there is Bend-Tech PRO | Tube, Pipe, and Rod bending software.
Probably the best resource for bending is Pirate4x4, but it is spread out and almost too much info.
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23 February 2015, 07:16
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gloucestershire
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 342
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^^^ I and all the other plumbers/heating guys I have ever worked with, only mark the center of the bend, and have marks on our formers to correspond.
Why would anyone mark the start.......
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23 February 2015, 07:45
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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You're both right about measuring and mark. You would mark the start so there is little waste. Not actually the start of the tube but the start of the bend. This happens not on the end of the former like you may think but just inside. A 25 mm former will start the bend 25 mm in. 32 mm will be 32 mm in and so on. Measure twice. Check twice because once you've started there's no going back
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23 February 2015, 12:41
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
Actually it is not that hard with some proper equipment.......technique....tricks....start of the bend position for each die.......spring back......design on the floor in chalk or crayon,..... A high quality digital degree meter with a clamp........multiple planes...... Autocad...........Tube, Pipe, and Rod bending software.
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Pretty straight forward then & here's me thinking it was an art form😄
.....sh1t happens.......
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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