Please Help Identify This RIB

sellscottsell · 22 January 2004, 18:31

Good afternoon,
I am new to the RIBnet and I need your collective expertise. I have found a RIB to resurect from the dead. Attached is a photo of the treasure! The only information I have is that it's 17ft (5M+/-). My questions are: 1) Can anyone identify the boat from the photo? 2) What should I look for with regard to an inspection I'll give the craft next week? 3) Are new "tubes" very expensive if the tube proves to be trashed? 4) What should I pay for this boat? (impossible question, but I had to ask)

The boat is located in the US. It's currently frozen solid and therefore I think I can buy it on the cheap. Oh, one last question, can I put a Mercury 150HP outboard on a 5M Rib? If so, I'll bet I have a thrill machine on my hands.

Thanks in advance for all of the advice.

Scott

Louise · 22 January 2004, 18:35

Welcome to the forum.

That's a vey small picture. Is it possible for you to post a larger one? May help people in identifying it.

sellscottsell · 22 January 2004, 18:38

One more shot.

Louise · 22 January 2004, 18:40

There's details on picture sizes to use on this forum here .

HTH

Seb · 22 January 2004, 18:58

Its a 5.4m Avon Searider. Max recommended engine is 90hp i think so the 150's a no go!

Hope this helps

SEB

Rogue Wave · 22 January 2004, 22:24

It is a Sea Rider and they are arguably the best small ribs made, they are very sturdy and have been in production for a long time and are very expensive new. This one is a long way from that however!.

The hulls are fairly bulletproof and it looks like you have all the seat mouldings. I have just bought one in a similar state to renovate so maybe we can exchange notes .

In answer to your questions

2) What should I look for with regard to an inspection I'll give the craft next week?

Delamination. check as best you can that the gell coat is still firmly attached to the rest of the fibreglass.

Check that the fixing points are still good for the consoles etc and also check that the transom is still firmly attached to the hull/Tubes.
If all that is OK then everything else is easily renewable. I'd also check there was no frozen water inside the hull.

3) Are new "tubes" very expensive if the tube proves to be trashed? About 1500 to 2 k over here

4) What should I pay for this boat? (impossible question, but I had to ask) In that state and providing that answers to question 2 are favourable then maybe 500 to 1000 bucks anything less than 500 bucks and it becomes a real good buy

150 hp is a no no But looking at you location and considering it's got the ability to get f f f f airly cold out there I'd consider sticking two 50's or 60 twins. The weight balance might be tricky however

The transom is rated to 90 HP but you could emulate David Mannng who really beefed up his transom and stuck a 115 on th eback......waaheyy

Jono Garton · 22 January 2004, 22:25

Hi

Def a 5.4 sea rider - this will cost you arong £2000 ish to retube.

I have just had one refurbished, £2000 for the retube £1500 to sort the hull and console out.

I'm looking for £4500 to £5000 k so you know what kind of prices you are looking at.

The 150hp is out, i have put a new 75hp on one and it goes well (40knots) anymore than 40 knots at it chines like hell !!!!!!!!!!!!

The Jackeens · 22 January 2004, 22:35

Jono,

Do you really get 40 knots with the 75 hp on a 5.4 hull.

I can't get that ont of our 5 mtr with the same engine - about 35ish knots.

what prop do you have on it
paul

Neal · 22 January 2004, 22:38

Hi
Re the tubes i have just got a 5.3m RIB that needs new tubs. Over here there are couple of people i have had cost this and the UK prices go from £1700-£2400. The good thing doing this is you get the personal colour you want (and a new looking RIB). If you search RIBnet there are some pictures of a RIB that has just been done up with new tubes. With my RIB cost of tubs was reflected in the cost. Good luck.

Neal

Rogue Wave · 22 January 2004, 22:38

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...=avon+searider

This is a link to David (top Guy) Mannings thread. You can get past the chining on a sea rider it takes a while but you can do it.

Jono the Disco's chine a bit as well don't they

I'll go an get you alink to Jono'sthread. Personally I prefer David's because the Sea rider looks like it should and it's macho. However Jono's finished product looks excellent

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3517
This would be Jono's boat

Searider · 22 January 2004, 22:53

The builders plate on mine states max horsepower as 115hp - however mine is an old one, probably from the days when horses were a little smaller.

Duncan

ribraff · 22 January 2004, 23:41

One of the other points to look out for is the wood in the transom, if any of the fittings have leaked water it tends to go soft. The other thing, i have a set of tubes for this boat which have come off an ex MOD boat, the guy decided to get it retubed but these tubes are in good order, i'm going to service them possibly put new valves in if needed and sell them..... Anyone interested?? Any offer over £250. I'll supply a fitting kit and instructions.

sunrider · 23 January 2004, 00:02

I'm reconditioning a boat just like the one pictured, and all the advice here sounds just right and don't think I can add anything of value.

I'm in need of some used rub strakes for my boat. If anyone has some please let me know. I would be interested in the entire tube set but the shipping cost would be prohibitive I think (I'm in the US also). Thanks.

Jono Garton · 23 January 2004, 07:48

Quote:

Originally posted by Searider
The builders plate on mine states max horsepower as 115hp -

Duncan

Is that 115sp (shetland ponies) 115HP

Rogue Wave · 23 January 2004, 09:57

Quote:

Originally posted by ribraff
One of the other points to look out for is the wood in the transom, if any of the fittings have leaked water it tends to go soft.

That is one of the good points about David Mannings restoration. I think he made a steel jacket for the transom which would have given it a lot of extra strength and help overcome any weekness from the old ply core

Searider · 23 January 2004, 10:44

Quote:

Originally posted by Rogue Wave
That is one of the good points about David Mannings restoration. I think he made a steel jacket for the transom which would have given it a lot of extra strength and help overcome any weekness from the old ply core

Have just had a new transom put into my boat as the original one had decayed. However this had lasted approximately 25 years and is now as good as (probably better than) new. made up of a sandwich of GRP / plywood / GRP / plywood / GRP.

With my surveyors hat on I would be wary of a transom with steel plates on it as this could just be a cheap fix for an underlying problem. New transom cost me £££££!!! If the plywood is shot, even with steel plates it is still shot. (Not saying that this is what David did though).

Strength is required also in bracing the top of the transom to the floor. Need to check the anchorages in the floor.

Are there any boats out there (other than seariders of course) that have survived for 25 years before needing surgery?

Duncan

Pete7 · 23 January 2004, 13:15

Quote:

Are there any boats out there (other than seariders of course) that have survived for 25 years before needing surgery?

My P22 and it still doesn't need a new transom

Pete

sellscottsell · 23 January 2004, 18:50

Wow, what a great forum. I thank you all for information. I now know much more about this Rib then I ever though possible.

I have set an appointment to inspect the boat this coming Tuesday. Afterwhich I'll post more photos and I'm sure ask more questions. I'm hoping to buy the boat soon thereafter. Next item will be a trailer.

One last question for this week, if I buy the boat and a trailer, is there a quick way to inflater her before winching her? Is there a 12volt pump? Or should I invest in a foot pump? Of course I'm optomistically thinking the damn thing will hold air! Oh, also, do you think I should even try to inflate her at -10 to -15C?

It's bloody cold here!

Regards,

Scott

Rogue Wave · 23 January 2004, 20:50

I don't know if you should inflate in the cold. Can any of the Vikings help out here. BUt in theory the material will contract in the cold so should become more airtight. ASk somebody who runs one locally....Coastguard perhaps.

Foot pump will only Take 10 minutes and It will warm you up/ Bosch (Robert Bosch in the States) do make a 12 volt pump. they used to one bundles in a 12 volt drill pack.

That hull doesn't weigh much you and a buddy could manhandle it quite well (with no ice aboard) so you could sling it on the back of a pickup and get it into a warm shopwhich might help.

the avon has a unique system of a flooding hull. more about that lateer but effectively the boat has two nostrils at the front and a larger vent at the back. Check that there is no ice in these holes. (they may however have been blanked off.) I have looked at the pictures again and the boat doesn't actually look in bad condition you also seem to have all of the Mouldings etc.

sellscottsell · 23 January 2004, 21:01

Thanks RW, you've been more than helpfull.

I understand the floodable hull. I'll look to see if the hulls been shut or if it's open. I think I'd rather it open. Ice needs to move. The only time you have trouble with ice is when you trap it into a confined space and it has not room to run about. Much like my children!

Trust me, living in Boston I've had much experience with frozen bits!