polishing with non abrasive

[davidni]

Hello again,

Just a quickie...

I have a proper polisher and want to give the hull a good clean up and protect.

The hulls really good. I just want to give it a good shine up for the season and also was advised to get it polished up before doing the gelcoat repairs then redo again afterwards for very best results. Avon are getting me the RAL number so can make a nice job of it now.

And I'm sure its never been polished up since new so would be nice to see it as it should be.

I'm going to give it a good blast with the power washer to start.

Just wanted some advice on polishes etc.

Local boat shops don't seem to stock much in polish and wax and want to crack on tomorrow so no time to chase around the country.

So wanted to know if there is any more readily available products that do a nice job on grp hulls.

I can get G10 etc locally at great prices as have a trade account with my local factors who sell it. Bit not sure if I want to use an abrasive compound in my hull.

Any recommendations on polishes and waxes? Doesn't have to be cheap stuff.

Want to polish up the console too.

[Landlockedpirate]

If its heavily oxidised, G3 or G10 can work really well, or for a less agressive method, Mer also gives a good shine.

[willk]

Surely all polishes are abrasive to some extent?

...and waxes the shine only products?

I've used very fine 3M machine polish on GRP with excellent results. It can be worked without too much pressure and takes as little surface as you want. The result for me was a clean but VERY smooth shiny surface that I then waxed for protection. My ten year old GRP that hadn't seen much cleaning looked like new. It's a messy job and the polishing compounds are very hard to get off hypalon tubes (I guess it's clingy and the grit sticks to the irregularities). I wrapped my tubes in industrial packaging film before doing the whole boat.

[paintman]

G10 is very very fine, G3 I use to polish car repairs after sanding the clearcoat with 1500 wet&dry to remove any nibs & blend out the edge (I do this professionally)
I use G3 on my hull with a soft compounding mop - the black waffled ones are usually the softest - & plenty of water as a lubricant. A flower type hand water sprayer is ideal.
Keep the mop moving to avoid a heat build-up.
Do a small area at a time & stop frequently to inspect.
Don't let the overspray of the compound dry as it can be a pig to remove.
I use old towels & they're fine.

[beerbelly]

theres a new water based farecla. g3 ultra needs no water when your using it makes a lot less mess (I also do it for a living) then use the glaze with a black mop to get rid of any polishing swirls

[nugent]

There's a superb recent product on the market
Finexa Polish,
, it's a beaded product one application sand with 2000 grit then mop it's starts of course and breaks down to a white product which finishes it off trust me it's the dogs danglies and no need to add water so does not fly off every where


https://www.chemicar.eu/en/products/...ishing-program

[paintman]

Originally Posted by beerbelly

theres a new water based farecla. g3 ultra needs no water when your using it makes a lot less mess (I also do it for a living) then use the glaze with a black mop to get rid of any polishing swirls

I've just watched their 'How to' video. G3 Ultra Abrasive Compound | farecla
I'll be getting some of that! Thanks for the heads up. (Not too sure about the rubber suit though)

[Mollers]

Don't forget that super shiney polished below the planning line will slow the hull, looks great on the trailer however. :-)

[paintman]

My main use will be on cars. Looks like that will save me a fair bit of time & I can give the customer the bill quicker