Project Lomac botched rigging

[Limey Linda]

Started to replace the towing eyes today as they were loose and rusty. They do not go though the transom but the hull extensions accessed by deck hatches and a 2foot blind reach to get to the inside nuts. Gave up trying to loosen the nuts and got out the die grinder ( air) and a cut off wheel. Hull is about 2 cm thick at this point and they used a piece of scrap ply and no washers. Any suggestions on a suitable new backing plate. Was thinking of some 1/2 inch oak or 1/4" ally. Has now turned into an all day job.

[Roy Smith]

Our towing eye as gone south its the same type as the ones to the right of your
photo. the plate slips over the d ring so you cant tighten the nuts
The nice people at Scorpion are sending me a new type which as nuts on both
sides of the d ring

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by Roy Smith

Our towing eye as gone south its the same type as the ones to the right of your
photo. the plate slips over the d ring so you cant tighten the nuts
The nice people at Scorpion are sending me a new type which as nuts on both
sides of the d ring

Not quite the same. Both the old and the new ones have a shoulder, so the plate cannot slide up and therefore no need for a nut on the outside. Unless of course, yours are really badly corroded and the shoulder/plate has rotted away.

[martini]

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

Started to replace the towing eyes today as they were loose and rusty. They do not go though the transom but the hull extensions accessed by deck hatches and a 2foot blind reach to get to the inside nuts. Gave up trying to loosen the nuts and got out the die grinder ( air) and a cut off wheel. Hull is about 2 cm thick at this point and they used a piece of scrap ply and no washers. Any suggestions on a suitable new backing plate. Was thinking of some 1/2 inch oak or 1/4" ally. Has now turned into an all day job.

I would suggest a stainless backing plate, aluminium would corrode against the stainless towing eye.

A 1/4" plate say around 4" square with 2 holes for the eye should be pretty solid.

Notice how effortlessly I slipped back into imperial measurements there, not easy for a youngster like me

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by martini

I would suggest a stainless backing plate, aluminium would corrode against the stainless towing eye.

A 1/4" plate say around 4" square with 2 holes for the eye should be pretty solid.

Notice how effortlessly I slipped back into imperial measurements there, not easy for a youngster like me

Yea, thought of the Ally/SS problem having just drilled/ hammered a SS screw out of an Ally casting. Will use SS or white oak and penny washers.

[jwalker]

Don't use Oak. If your transom is 20mm of solid fibreglass, you won't need anything other than the strap plate on the u-bolt. I'd take care to work out the dimensions and trim the u-bolts as necessary so that a socket set can be used to get in there and tighten the nuts properly. Use nylock nuts because, as well as being vibration proof, they keep water out of the threads.

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Don't use Oak. If your transom is 20mm of solid fibreglass, you won't need anything other than the strap plate on the u-bolt. I'd take care to work out the dimensions and trim the u-bolts as necessary so that a socket set can be used to get in there and tighten the nuts properly. Use nylock nuts because, as well as being vibration proof, they keep water out of the threads.

Thanks for the input. I think I will add some ss penny washers just for extra load spreading. Good idea about trimming the thread length back. One side is is going to be a bugger as the thru. hull for the bilge pump and the fill and output hose deck fittings for the deck shower are in the way and it will all have to done blind.

[Jono]

Don't trim the thread if you can avoid it..

A) You've got the chance to screw up the measurement and B) You need to make good the start of the thread, which isn't as easy as it looks, with the consequent risk of cross threading if you're working blind..

...either use a deep socket or a ratchet ring spanner.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Jono

A) You've got the chance to screw up the measurement and

Shit that'll be difficult. Measure the nut, measure the transom, measure the washers and add 3mm for good luck.

B) You need to make good the start of the thread, which isn't as easy as it looks,

Jeezus. No fekkin comment.

[jwalker]

Actually, I've changed my mind and I'll be more constructive.

After cutting off the surplus, hold the tread in a vice using some protection, file the end flat and then chamfer the corner using a sightly upward stroke of the file to prevent any burrs forming in the thread. Easy and job done.

Some folk put a nut on the thread before sawing off and then screw it off to clean up the thread tip. I find this a waste of time and in stainless it's worse because it tends to pick up a bit.

[Jono]

Yes Jeff, you can do it with ease and I can too, but there are an awful lot of people who can’t and why take the risk? Restoring a thread lead can easily be screwed up. You also telling me you’ve never measured or calculated something incorrectly? What is the old saying? “If you’ve never made a mistake, you’ve never made anything?”

I will amend my advice then. If you’re a competent “DIY” type then go-ahead and shorten the thread….but make sure you have a spare bolt stood by if you’re doing it late in the day…..

[jwalker]

That's better.

[Limey Linda]

Thanks for all the concern guys, but I must have done it 1000's of times and I have the correct tools.