Re-fitting our Humber Ocean Pro 6.3

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by m Williams

A quick question for the experts. I have recently purchased a Humber Assault 5.0, however, there is no hull identification plate just details of weight limit,max number of persons and a a maximum engine size of 90 hp. Contacted Humber who were unable to help.



So, for insurance purposes I need to establish a year built and a maximum speed with the 50 hp four stroke outboard fitted. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there, welcome and congrats on buying a Humber!

First as a caveat I’m far from an expert but can offer my thoughts. Humber assaults have been built for decades without much change to their design, it may be worth asking Humber again if they can inform you of any small design changes that are evident from the external design which may give away an approximate year - ie if they started putting a thicker transom on, when did this start, things like that. This would give you a guide if such information can be obtained. If that isn’t possible you may need to estimate based on the condition. Was the engine supplied with the boat, does it look like it could be the original engine? If so the engine age is a guide, or any dated electrics which may be original. Failing that was the trailer supplied with the boat and is the original trailer - there should be a plate with a date on that - piece it together with the general condition of the boat and give a guestimate- I would then inform the insurer of that date.

Others may have better suggestions though. I would suggest also creating a new thread as your query can become lost in this thread because it’s a different topic - I would think you may get more replies to your query with a specific thread. Best of luck

[m Williams]

Thank you xpertski, Your advice is much appreciated. I shall give Humber another ring and track down the outboard and trailer numbers. The Yamaha serial number may give us more information. Cheers

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by m Williams

Thank you xpertski, Your advice is much appreciated. I shall give Humber another ring and track down the outboard and trailer numbers. The Yamaha serial number may give us more information. Cheers

No worries and good luck!

[xpertski]

Below is where I have got to on wiring - hope it makes sense.

I’ll order the blue sea add a battery kit this weekend, so you think the 65Amp mini kit would be the right one (engine alternator charges at 60Amp) or go for the 120 Amp kit with the principle of over speccing?

[A1an]

There's some serious current bring talked about on here. The reality is I bet the average leisure boat doesn't draw a third of what they are set up for.

[A1an]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Below is where I have got to on wiring - hope it makes sense.

I’ll order the blue sea add a battery kit this weekend, so you think the 65Amp mini kit would be the right one (engine alternator charges at 60Amp) or go for the 120 Amp kit with the principle of over speccing?

Attachment 134093

personally I'd have the bilge pump on its own supply from the live side of isolator

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by A1an

personally I'd have the bilge pump on its own supply from the live side of isolator

Hi Alan, yes I can see the reasoning for that - so that if there is anything wrong with the other electrics you can still pump water out. I guess just a light cable separate to the fused switch panel.

Agree some large currents being discussed, though I can also see the logic behind overspending everything. Not much cost between the options so I guess when starting from scratch perhaps it’s better to overspec .... just in case - who knows in the future I may decide to put a massive sound system Amp in the console [emoji23][emoji23]

Looks like I’ve got there with the connections and what links to what though. Someone else suggested I only needed one -VE cable to the front, not one from each battery. So I have 16mm +VE and -VE cables going under deck to provide power to the console

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by m Williams

A quick question for the experts. I have recently purchased a Humber Assault 5.0, however, there is no hull identification plate just details of weight limit,max number of persons and a a maximum engine size of 90 hp. Contacted Humber who were unable to help.

So, for insurance purposes I need to establish a year built and a maximum speed with the 50 hp four stroke outboard fitted. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1998 was the year ce marking became compulsory and with it the need to hin number every boat. Your boat is likely pre 1998 and there is probably little chance of finding its exact year. I'd personally declare it as a 97 or 98 boat as no one else is likely to be able to date it either IE in the event of an insurance claim the insurer will have no idea either.
You could contact the builder & they may advise when they started hin marking boats if they started pre 98 but many didnt start until they absolutely had to.
It wasnt in their interests to hin mark as it meant stock boats could be old before sold and there was a record of every boat sold so no chance of selling the odd boat for cash.

[A1an]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Hi Alan, yes I can see the reasoning for that - so that if there is anything wrong with the other electrics you can still pump water out.

if you leave the boat on a mooring/anchor/trailer you can still have the bilge pump operational while the rest of the boat is dead.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by A1an

if you leave the boat on a mooring/anchor/trailer you can still have the bilge pump operational while the rest of the boat is dead.

Yeah I had wondered about whether to have an auto bulge, heard pros and cons of using them - I have a manual atm but I guess if I wire it as you suggest I have an option of an auto bilge

[GuyC]

I think the 65A mini kit would be fine. The bigger kit doesn't give you any redundancy or extra performance.

I'd agree with having a bilge pump on its own supply. I've ended up with a second small auto pump direct off the non-isolated side of the house battery through a fuse and a switch. It only draws 1.6A.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Yeah I had wondered about whether to have an auto bulge, heard pros and cons of using them - I have a manual atm but I guess if I wire it as you suggest I have an option of an auto bilge

Auto bilge I meant [emoji23] don’t mean to send this thread southwards!

Thanks for your replies - I’ll put an extra set of cables through for the bilge

[xpertski]

Can I ask - positioning the console, the old Humber double console was slightly closer to the right, presumably to aid passage to the side of the console when accessing the front of the boat. Fuel tank, like now is going on the floor inside the console.

Would you do the same and position the console slightly right again or dead centre? It has a 200ltr tank inside. Wondering if it would make the boat less balanced putting weight to one side rather than centre.

This would potentially help with getting a second pipe to route other cables which needs to be far right to keep to the right of a stringer.

Which leads me onto another problem I encountered. I realised I missed a cable that should have gone under deck, trying to fit the cable using the string I ran was a no go - it must have been tangled with the cables, can’t pull anything through. Then tried pushing something through using a cable inspection camera - no go as well. So only option seems to route separate cables under deck. I note that some people don’t use any conduit at all as seen from another thread , perhaps this is ok to the side of the longitudinal side beam which I believe stays dry and there would be limited movement (unlike centre of inside hull which is a wet chamber). But perhaps still worth running conduit to make running cables easier - I thought a smooth inner conduit would work better (as the ribbed nature of the main conduit is a pain to run new cables - can’t see how to do it). My idea was to use reinforced rubber fuel pipe (can get up to about 35mm inner diameter), that way cables could theoretically be replaced with a vacuum, paper and string. Picture below. Thoughts? I could either run as large as I can fit to the side of the inner hull or potentially two smaller pipes. I still need to run VHF, Transducer cable, and some small cables for bilge and nav lights.

[36valley]

My XS650 also has the console slightly off to the right hand side, with a 180 litre tank inside. The steering is also on the right but even with my 17 stone there is no noticeable imbalance.

[Ribtecer]

Aren't they off set slightly to counter the effect from the direction of the prop?

[beerbelly]

mine is dead center 160 litre tank inside it my battery is the same side as the helm starboard .runs straight and true with either me on my own or 2 aboard side by side jockeys

[xpertski]

Good evening all! May I please glean some more advice from you all?

I’m almost at the stage of fitting the console (slow progress I know). I need to fibreglass it to the deck, and was going to use this stuff;



I thought it might give a neater finish than the straw matting I have been using for other boat jobs. Can I ask if I use this stuff to fix the console to the floor whether you think 100mm width would be enough (5cm on the floor and 5cm up the side of the console) or whether I should go for 150mm? Also for anyone who has done this before how many layers would you apply for an ultra strong fit?

Thank you in advance! Much appreciated!

[Ribtecer]

I'm no expert and I would like others to confirm before you proceed.

However I would say use 100mm 1st, then, and after it's gone off use the 150mm on top of that, so you get more strengh with more surface contact.

Can you glass from the inside as well?

Just my 2 pence worth, and as I say check with those that know before you do it.

When do you reckon you'll be afloat?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Good evening all! May I please glean some more advice from you all?

I’m almost at the stage of fitting the console (slow progress I know). I need to fibreglass it to the deck, and was going to use this stuff;

Attachment 134730Attachment 134731

I thought it might give a neater finish than the straw matting I have been using for other boat jobs. Can I ask if I use this stuff to fix the console to the floor whether you think 100mm width would be enough (5cm on the floor and 5cm up the side of the console) or whether I should go for 150mm? Also for anyone who has done this before how many layers would you apply for an ultra strong fit?

Thank you in advance! Much appreciated!

you'll find that the cloth isn't as easy to get into the corner and cloth won't adhere as well IMO i would use matt first then finish with cloth if you have a mind but i guess you will flow coat so you can get the finished edge you want with that. you could finish with easy sand filler on top of the CSM too for a better finish then flow coat

[36valley]

If your bonding on the outside of the console then my advice is stick with chopped strand mat. You'll find that tape won't stretch around corners very well, if at all, and it will end up looking a bit untidy.

If your bonding inside the console then I would sandwich a layer of tape between two or more layers of csm. You'll get the strength of the tape with the much better bonding/adhesion of the csm.