Removeable Jockeys - How???

Razorbill RIBs · 15 October 2009, 17:01

Can anyone help me out re the above?

I am collecting two double jockey seats tomorrow (fibreglass 1000m long with internal flange for fixing). I need to be able to bolt them in and out interchangeable with a dive rack.....

I have looked at the 'big head' fixing mentioned here previosuly and can get a long strip made up with female threaded sleeves.....I would then need to remove the floor covering drill out holes for the sleeves and bond the perforated strips to the deck (with some ss self tappers for good measure) and then reapply floorcovering over the top.

Problem is that with seats removed would still have raised bolt heads (albeit domed) on deck as well as the concern that the water tightness of the inner hull is compromised.....

Has anyone else got any suggestions /a method they use in their boats?

As always - your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Dan

Observer · 15 October 2009, 17:54

Is the inner hull supposed to be watertight? Genuine question. I assumed not, thus the need for a drain plug.

Razorbill RIBs · 15 October 2009, 18:20

Hi Observer - Perhaps watertight is the wrong way of describing it. After all, my anchor locker has a drain into the inner hull and as you quite rightly say, I then need to empty the inner hull using the drain plug....

I guess my concern is that I would be putting circa 20 holes (5 each side of the length of the jockey flange) in the deck and would only have bolts (M8 or similar) to stop any sitting water from deck entering the inner hull.....possibly not worth worrying about given the ability to drain....

Dan

J S · 15 October 2009, 18:22

If i remember correctly Chris did it with his old osprey have a search or im sure he will be along soon to help

James

Razorbill RIBs · 15 October 2009, 19:13

Thanks James.....found the thread.

Chris' solution is really similar to the big head system I've looked at...if interested, see linky below then click on the big strip section.

They will make up a 1000 long strip with 5 female sleeves welded on for around £15 each (4 required). I would then use a mixture of ss self tapers and a high grab waterproof adhesive....

http://www.bighead.co.uk/products/specialFasteners.html

If there are any other solutions would like to hear them!

D.

Downhilldai · 15 October 2009, 22:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Worth

Problem is that with seats removed would still have raised bolt heads (albeit domed) on deck as well as the concern that the water tightness of the inner hull is compromised.....

Why would you have raised, domed bolt heads on the deck? The top of the 'bighead' sleeves should be flush with the deck surface and are 'blind', so any water on the deck will not run through to the inner hull. You could seal any gaps around the bigheads with sikaflex or a GRP filler.
I've got a similar set-up on my boat. I use A4 stainless allen head grubscrews to keep sand and crap out of the bighead threads when the seats aren't fitted.

Razorbill RIBs · 16 October 2009, 07:28

Hi Brad.....

I had assumed the female sleeves were 'straight through' Hadn't realised they were blind....even better!

Good idea re using the screws to keep threads clean - i was working on the basis that i'd put the bolts I removed back in when seats were out.

Just out of interest, you say you have a similar system, what is it? Is it cheaper than the Big Head?

Thanks,

Dan

Downhilldai · 16 October 2009, 12:31

Hi Dan,
when I bought the boat, I wanted removable aft pods ('cos I don't have any mates

).
4 no M10 female bigheads were installed in the deck for each seat pod, at approx. 150mm PCD. The flowcoat applied to the deck seals the bigheads and prevents any water penetrating into the hull void. The manufacturer supplies seat pods with a fully glassed base, which I then drilled through to accept M10 fixing bolts and penny washers. Bolt length is critical, due to the 'blind' nature of the bigheads.
The system you're proposing sounds good.

DHD

Razorbill RIBs · 16 October 2009, 20:13

Seats now collected......they're just what i was looking for.

They came from John Win (Thanks John)...and thanks to Chris and JSP for flagging them up / passing on contact details etc.

I had intended getting them recovered, but they are okay for now (couple of small nicks etc) and are Red with black piping will match my tubes....in fact, think I'll try and match the vinyl and get my main jockey covered to match!

The bases have been stripped and are now at a mates body shop to get them etch primed and sprayed....hopefully ready for when I get back from Lifeboat college next weekend.

When i get them back I'll measure up and get the big strips made up....

Brad - if I understood your message right, you used 4 studs per jockey? - Were they singles and if so, do you think 6 would be sufficient for each double jockey?.....I was planning on 10 originally...(dims are 1000l x 380w)

Thanks for your help with this guys, will post pics when all done...

Dan.

JSP · 16 October 2009, 20:18

They sound spot on for you Dan. Be good to see some pictures when you've done them

Downhilldai · 16 October 2009, 20:22

Yes, they're singles. See attached pic.

As they're actually fixing through the deck with bigheads, I'd go for 3 or 4 on each side flange of your doubles. If you were using woodscrews into the deck, I'd recommend you use a lot more fixings.

Razorbill RIBs · 15 March 2010, 10:20

Only just getting around to the new removeable /interchangeable jockeys and bottle rack....

Thought i'd post up the solution we have gone with in case it helps anyone else /anyone wants anything similar.

The BigHead system was good, but they were only able to supply a system which was blind on the fixing /strip side, which would have meant needing access below the deck....which we do have in some areas thanks to hatches, but not sufficient to get in to fix etc. They would /can make up special orders, but it wasn't viable due to the small quantity i wanted...

Had looked at welding up our own system, but my local engineering firm came up with these(great guy if anyone needs anything doing....will be happy to pass on his details....he also makes the BEST lightsabre replicas i've ever seen!).

They are machines from solid SS bar and are 1inch deep to sit flush in the deck. The holes will be drilled so they fit tight and the undersides have been left with machined finish to aloow a bit of a key for the Sika

Assume this is the best adhesive, unless anyone has any other suggestions????

They will sit slightly proud on deck, but not enough to cause a trip (floor coating will be brought up to the edges too), and they will only be exposed when the rack is in when we have a grassmat over the top anyway.

We also have some allen key grubs to fill them /keep them clean when not in use. Have 12 to fit 6 per double jockey which will also have a long plate inside each flange to spread the load when bolting down.

Dan

Channel Ribs · 15 March 2010, 11:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Worth

Only just getting around to the new removeable /interchangeable jockeys and bottle rack....

Nice update, thank Dan.

If I grasp this right, you will effectively have 18 wood screws per double jockey?

Razorbill RIBs · 15 March 2010, 11:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by malthouse

Nice update, thank Dan.

If I grasp this right, you will effectively have 18 wood screws per double jockey?

18 woodscrews....that's right....BUT, the fixings have been machined to fit tight into 20mm holes (they will be tapped in tight....they have a slight bevel on the leading edge to allow this. the undersides have also been left with a rougher finish to allow keying with an adhesive....currently intending to use Sika, unless anyone has any other /better suggestions.

I'm pretty confident the system will be strong enough....and won't look too bad either!

D

Ian M · 15 March 2010, 14:18

Dan,
I am looking for something similar, but M12, to give me captive bolts where my upper console bolts to. Currently they are non-captive, and it is a b_____r to get a spanner in!
Would you mind giving me an idea of price (the bigheads in this size are quite expensive!) Thanks.
A bit late in the thread, but I have the same removeable jockey arrangement as Brad - sorry only just caught up with this thread

Razorbill RIBs · 15 March 2010, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian M

Dan,
I am looking for something similar, but M12, to give me captive bolts where my upper console bolts to. Currently they are non-captive, and it is a b_____r to get a spanner in!
Would you mind giving me an idea of price (the bigheads in this size are quite expensive!) Thanks.
A bit late in the thread, but I have the same removeable jockey arrangement as Brad - sorry only just caught up with this thread

PM sent

Razorbill RIBs · 27 May 2010, 15:38

As a follow on from this thread....just retrimmed the seats so they all match (main pod and the rear /removable pods....they are a slightly different style, but don't think it matters...same height virtually, the pics lie!).

The floor dowel system has been working fantastically well and shows no signs of movement despite a lot of traffic on the seats and weight on the bottlerack (incidentally have a SS bottlerack if anyone needs one....I gave £50 for it on ebay, but have stuck with the old one as it has a really handy kitting up table on top....will dig out and put up here /or PM me).

I bought a high grade vinyl via a mate in the trade and used his kit, workshop and TBH expertise (a lot) to retrim them....overall, i'm chuffed with how they look.

Re bagged the foam and went for grey upholstery (marginally cooler than the black and red ones we had previously esp. n shorts )...with red piping to match the tubes....

Using the old material as a template...you can't go wrong!