Removing badly flaked paint from A frame

[jambo]

Originally Posted by John Kennett

But you didn't answer the actual question though.

Jambo didn't ask "What would you do", he asked how to get the paint off so he could go back to stainless...

Many thanks John


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[Maximus]

Originally Posted by jambo

I was really wanting just to leave as SS and not repaint


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I missed you didn't want to re paint it Billy.
In that case you MAY have more to do than you think Mate!
Specially if you don't want to take off the A-frame! ...Its not the stripping off the old paint which is an easy fix...Nitromorse will soon get the job done without any abrasion.
Use a wooden or plastic scraper to remove the paint when it bubbles up/off the A-frame.
Covering up the Engine Deck and Tubes completely is a must!
Or it'll soon do some some serious damage.
After you've removed the paint it will all depend on the state of the Frame...ie if it was polished originally...or just painted after manufacture.
One of the MAJOR elements of the high cost of SS A-frames IS the polishing!!....which takes a considerable length time and no little skill....AND Can't be done with the Frame in situe.
So all depends on the state of the Stainless once you've got the paint off...which is the easy bit.
If you're lucky it may be pretty much ok with a lot of shine still left...in this case a good dose of elbow grease and some Autosol metal polish will sort it out!
Good luck.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Maximus

I missed you didn't want to re paint it Billy.
In that case you MAY have more to do than you think Mate!
Specially if you don't want to take off the A-frame! ...Its not the stripping off the old paint which is an easy fix...Nitromorse will soon get the job done without any abrasion.
Use a wooden or plastic scraper to remove the paint when it bubbles up/off the A-frame.
Covering up the Engine Deck and Tubes completely is a must!
Or it'll soon do some some serious damage.
After you've removed the paint it will all depend on the state of the Frame...ie if it was polished originally...or just painted after manufacture.
One of the MAJOR elements of the high cost of SS A-frames IS the polishing!!....which takes a considerable length time and no little skill....AND Can't be done with the Frame in situe.
So all depends on the state of the Stainless once you've got the paint off...which is the easy bit.
If you're lucky it may be pretty much ok with a lot of shine still left...in this case a good dose of elbow grease and some Autosol metal polish will sort it out!
Good luck.

Thanks Mathew. The bits that already showing seem smith with a bit of shine. I don't think it was keyed that's why the paint is coming of. Cheers


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[Pikey Dave]

Billy, the results will reflect the effort you put in. You could go down the in-situ chemical/mechanical removal route, but I don't think you'd be happy with the results & risk damaging the boat & that nice new shiny engine. If it was me, I would remove the "A" frame, have it bead blasted NOT shot or grit blasted. If you can get it soda blasted as previously mentioned then that's even better. You want the least aggressive method, that will do the job. After that, I would have it electropolished, assuming that it is stainless. I can't get my head around why it was coated in the first place if it's stainless, sacrilege The whole process wont be cheap, but will give the best results imho. You then get an opportunity to re-wire the "A" frame when you re-fit it. Keep you occupied on those long winter Scottish nights

PS, now I'm back off my hols I'll get onto those winches

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Billy, the results will reflect the effort you put in. You could go down the in-situ chemical/mechanical removal route, but I don't think you'd be happy with the results & risk damaging the boat & that nice new shiny engine. If it was me, I would remove the "A" frame, have it bead blasted NOT shot or grit blasted. If you can get it soda blasted as previously mentioned then that's even better. You want the least aggressive method, that will do the job. After that, I would have it electropolished, assuming that it is stainless. I can't get my head around why it was coated in the first place if it's stainless, sacrilege The whole process wont be cheap, but will give the best results imho. You then get an opportunity to re-wire the "A" frame when you re-fit it. Keep you occupied on those long winter Scottish nights

PS, now I'm back off my hols I'll get onto those winches

Thanks Dave. I think you're right it's a bigger job than first thought. I don't know why they did it as it's just flaking off all over the place makes a very spotty.


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[beamishken]

If its a single pack paint you may find it will soften with a rag soaked in cellulose thinners in which case you can wipe it off with plenty of rags just keep them well wetted with thinner and allow time to soften a patch at a time
Any kind of abrasive will mark the stainless & make it harder to polish back up
Once the paints off the stainless will shine up pretty well with g3 or similar

[jambo]

Originally Posted by beamishken

If its a single pack paint you may find it will soften with a rag soaked in cellulose thinners in which case you can wipe it off with plenty of rags just keep them well wetted with thinner and allow time to soften a patch at a time
Any kind of abrasive will mark the stainless & make it harder to polish back up
Once the paints off the stainless will shine up pretty well with g3 or similar

Thanks Ken my northern neighbour. I think your method would be the answer as it does not seem to be keyed properly. Cheers


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[jeffstevens763@g]

Brake fluid use to make a right mess of car paint work don't know about powder coating? But for me new engine,rubber tubes,flow coat deck and so on I would worry.
A heat gun with the proper fitting for paint stripping might work but be slow
Cheers

[jambo]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Brake fluid use to make a right mess of car paint work don't know about powder coating? But for me new engine,rubber tubes,flow coat deck and so on I would worry.
A heat gun with the proper fitting for paint stripping might work but be slow
Cheers

Cheers Jeff hadn't thought of heat gun.


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[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by jambo

Cheers Jeff hadn't thought of heat gun.


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Hi billy

Been thinking about this and before you start it may only be bad prep in isolated areas if it were me I would explor the affected areas with A Stanley knife blade scraper if it is pad prep it should just come away fairly easy as you will get under the coating or as you progress you find a pitted surface in which the coating is much harder to remove.the dilemma would then be a pee poor finish on the stainless.i might be wrong but I think you have a ribcraft I would ring them for any feed back they probably sub the stainless work out and had some probs before to which they have a solution worth a call.
What ever you do will be controlled by the original prep and coating if it's powder coat it can hide a very bad prep I do know that as the welds on my seat bases were abismal but after coating nothing seen.
Acetone might work to soften paint too.
Plasticoat spray is very good to apply by hand screw fix stock it if you deside to re-coat.
Not an easy one!

Best of luck cheers

[jambo]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Hi billy



Been thinking about this and before you start it may only be bad prep in isolated areas if it were me I would explor the affected areas with A Stanley knife blade scraper if it is pad prep it should just come away fairly easy as you will get under the coating or as you progress you find a pitted surface in which the coating is much harder to remove.the dilemma would then be a pee poor finish on the stainless.i might be wrong but I think you have a ribcraft I would ring them for any feed back they probably sub the stainless work out and had some probs before to which they have a solution worth a call.

What ever you do will be controlled by the original prep and coating if it's powder coat it can hide a very bad prep I do know that as the welds on my seat bases were abismal but after coating nothing seen.

Acetone might work to soften paint too.

Plasticoat spray is very good to apply by hand screw fix stock it if you deside to re-coat.

Not an easy one!



Best of luck cheers

Thanks again Jeff. Some parts just flake if at a touch. I'll try the Stanley approach. J


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[jeffstevens763@g]

Just googled if it's powder coating, acetone breaks it down as does 98% sulphuric acid & heat will do it around 350 - 450 degrees c if it's just coming off that easy Stanley will be your best mate. sounds like get the lads round few beers blade each job done.
hope it's a uniform prep beneath the coating for you

Cheers

[jambo]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Just googled if it's powder coating, acetone breaks it down as does 98% sulphuric acid & heat will do it around 350 - 450 degrees c if it's just coming off that easy Stanley will be your best mate. sounds like get the lads round few beers blade each job done.
hope it's a uniform prep beneath the coating for you

Cheers

Okay mate thanks for going to the trouble appreciated. J


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[mick]

Just read this thread imo I wouldn't be messing about with chemicals on the boat accidents aren't to seek go down the Pikey route after all he is Mr Stainless. Do the job correct the 1st time no more worries.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by mick

Just read this thread imo I wouldn't be messing about with chemicals on the boat accidents aren't to seek go down the Pikey route after all he is Mr Stainless. Do the job correct the 1st time no more worries.

Hear what you're saying Mick. Cheers. B


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[jeffstevens763@g]

Reading a bit about stainless prep because it's close grained prep should be 50 micron which is grit blast, sounds like billy might get away with scraping/burning off as defo not prepped to 50micron as there's no adhesion

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

Reading a bit about stainless prep because it's close grained prep should be 50 micron which is grit blast, sounds like billy might get away with scraping/burning off as defo not prepped to 50micron as there's no adhesion

He's not prepping, he's removing an existing coating. Grit blasting is aggressive to provide a key for re-coating, which he's not doing. He wants it to look nice & shiny. Grit blasting will leave a rough matte finish.

[jeffstevens763@g]

What I am saying Dave is if it's not been preped properly he will get what he wants shiny steel if not he will have a profile finish what he doesn't want so if it's flaking off chances are its shiney or he will have a mix which he doesn't want he won't know until he has a look as I suggested to him.if there is a profile he has no choice but to re-coat as it will rust in the pits over time and look s--t

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

What I am saying Dave is if it's not been preped properly he will get what he wants shiny steel if not he will have a profile finish what he doesn't want so if it's flaking off chances are its shiney or he will have a mix which he doesn't want he won't know until he has a look as I suggested to him.if there is a profile he has no choice but to re-coat as it will rust in the pits over time and look s--t

Ah right! I mis-understood your post, I thought you were suggesting grit blasting to remove the existing paint, my bad

If Billy is going to scrape, he needs to take care & not use ferrous tools like a paint scraper or blade. Hard plastic is the way to go.

[jambo]

Once again Dave and Jeff many thanks for taking the trouble to guide me in the proper method.


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