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Old 07 February 2010, 14:03   #21
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Hey PF,

Glad the bond seems to be holding well. Do you have a picture of the new transom you could post?
Anyway, it sounds promising at the moment if that glue is bonding well.

Good luck in the water - it's but a distant dream for me at the moment to get mine in there.
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Old 11 June 2010, 23:49   #22
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I have managed to fit in a new transom - at last!!!

I've attached a few pictures to show what a pain it was. I used Polymarine two-part in the end on both the base "gutter" section and the shoulder pads joining onto the tubes. I had to pin back the housing with small screws.

I used some of the same wood (Marine ply, allegedly) to make a new floor which you can see in the finished shot.
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Old 11 June 2010, 23:53   #23
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Here are a couple of pics of the boat with the new floor in too. It's quite an old boat but now hopefully with a new lease of life...
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Old 12 June 2010, 01:35   #24
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Originally Posted by Adrian Brighton View Post
Here are a couple of pics of the boat with the new floor in too. It's quite an old boat but now hopefully with a new lease of life...
It'll go like stink

We had exactly the same boat with an old 20hp on it a few years ago. Huge amounts of fun. search 'Zed 34' on here and you'll come up with some images. The bolts aren't original by the way.
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Old 25 August 2011, 21:45   #25
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hi guys great thread... loads of info...

i've just gotten a 5m chinook inflateable. i need to replace the transom as well but i'm not sure which glue i need.... i don't know exactly what the boat is made of so in unsure what to use.... i tried goole but just got a load of helicopters!!!!!!! the transom is wood and the floor is rubber i think but not sure about the tubes.... is there any glue that works on all surfaces....

thanks for reading..... this is my first day on this site, let me know if i'm doing anything wrong....
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Old 28 August 2011, 12:31   #26
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Hello VK,

I ended up using the same glue to join the transom to both the PVC floor and the rubber housing that sits on each pontoon. Others will probably tell you to use different glues, though. I ended up getting opinions from several sources before I went ahead on mine.

The inflatable material of my boat is made of PVC. I gather most inflatables are made from PVC or Hypalon.
I used a two-part glue by Polymarine specifically for PVC boats. It's very important you don't use the wrong one.
This link on the Polymarine site gives some clues on how to identify whether yours is one or t'other:
PVC or Hypalon? « Polymarine Paints, Adhesives, Parts & Accessories

You also need to buy some Acetone to prep the surfaces to be glued. It's a long, tricky job replacing a transom, so be prepared to scarifice a couple of weekends and evenings getting it right.

A
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Old 28 August 2011, 13:36   #27
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Chinook stopped making ribs about 1996/7 time from their factory in Cheshire. I think the moulds were bought by Delta Inflatables in Manchester but they didn't do anything with them. I can't remember Kevin using PVC, I think all his ribs and inflatables were hypalon.

Pete
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Old 24 May 2021, 19:16   #28
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Transom... ten years on (part 1)

Hi everyone,

It's only been a decade but someone has asked me how I got on with my transom, and asked if I had pictures.

Lo and behold I found the pictures, and here they are.

This first set shows the:
- opening where the transom has to go
- marine ply I combined to create the transom
- cut out transom
- transom with etched out areas for the seal
- transom coated with epoxy resin.

I'll post the second set showing installation.

Cheers
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Old 24 May 2021, 19:28   #29
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Transom... ten years on (part 2)

And here's the installation in five photos:
- double-checking the fit and marking the glueing area
- aligning the bolt holes with some metal rods
- then pinning open the groove that the transom sits within
- inserting spacers (small screws I think) to allow the glue to get enough air
- applying glue into the spaced areas.

After allowing the glue to do its thing, I took out the little spacers and wooden pins, and pressed the joins together with my gloved hands. This only needed to be done with force for a minute or so, due to the tackiness of the glue after airing.

Once it had set firm, I took out the metal rods and screwed the bolts back in.

My only real tip is to allow plenty of time. Do not rush it. Do not cut corners.

I hope that helps my private messenger, plus anyone else who finds this in future.

Cheers
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Old 26 May 2022, 13:50   #30
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Questions on PVC to wood gluing

Thanks for all the info in this thread.
I found an old Zodiac that has come apart at the transom.

The Polymarine instructions say that the wood should be primed with one part Hypalon adhesive before using the two-component PVC glue to glue the boots and the bottom on the plywood.

My problem is that the norwegian importers only have the two-component Hypalon glue from polymarine- will that work to replace the one-component?
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