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08 December 2014, 13:17
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Trouble is the water breaks down the lamination in the ply
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08 December 2014, 13:47
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#22
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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That is precisely what I am doing. The rib is on land and covered. I have cleared silicon sealant from the unused holes that were accessible, and am working toward moving the engine so I can access the other (poorly) sealed holes. Once this is done I will leave the transom to dry until the spring. The decision will then be made on where to mount the engine and the unused holes will be filled. I am in no hurry to get the boat back on the water so can give it a long time to dry.
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08 December 2014, 14:42
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#23
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Galway
Boat name: Top Banana
Make: Scorpion 9m
Length: 9m +
Engine: Yamaha 421STI
MMSI: Yeah right!
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gareth9702
That is precisely what I am doing. The rib is on land and covered. I have cleared silicon sealant from the unused holes that were accessible, and am working toward moving the engine so I can access the other (poorly) sealed holes. Once this is done I will leave the transom to dry until the spring. The decision will then be made on where to mount the engine and the unused holes will be filled. I am in no hurry to get the boat back on the water so can give it a long time to dry.
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Gareth, I'm sorry to see the state of those bolts and to be honest there's no point in beating about the bush on this; for the bolts to corrode like that, water has got in over a lengthy period and drying out won't make good the internal damage to the (marine?) plywood.
IMHO it's very likely you're looking at a structural repair and I'd be doing exactly as Biffer suggests asap. Then, depending on the initial results, probably using a moisture meter to take some readings at various locations across the transom to determine the extent of the moisture ingress.
The sooner you bite the bullet and do this, the better, because there's nothing to be gained from allowing it to stand in the hope it will 'dry out'.
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08 December 2014, 17:56
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#24
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Member
Country: Germany
Town: near Kiel, baltic sea
Make: Avon SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30 4-stroke
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
Trouble is the water breaks down the lamination in the ply
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Does the ply got kind of shrunk? Donīt know the transom of the
Revenger is made, were you can see the delamilation of that plywood.
Whole transom fully covered with GRP?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrowboy
The sooner you bite the bullet and do this, the better, because there's nothing to be gained from allowing it to stand in the hope it will 'dry out'.
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Thatīs absolute true! If the holes, of the bolts are under the water line,
the moisture/ wetness must be gone deep into the plywood.
If they are above, there is a chance to let the transom dry out during
the winter time. May be drill some more holes yust trough the GRP,
to let it dry better.
Lifetime of transom plywood is reduced by getting wet (and dry out)
anyway. Itīs yust a question of time, when a major repair has to
be done, right now, or later.
I would let some professional have a look after your transom. He
must know whatīs the best to do right now
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08 December 2014, 19:03
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Your transom is made up of 2 layers of ply, it has GRP on the outside a couple of layers between the ply and some more on the inside of the transom, the trouble is with the ply not the grp, when the ply gets wet it turns to mush, it may be ok but the bolts look suspect, the easiest way to to find out for sure is to cut a section out of the inside of the transom, if it's dry then that will be the easiest to repair
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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08 December 2014, 19:40
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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Revenger 23
Biffs right, the other day I core drilled through a transom and it was a dry as a bone so I fitted a bilge pump outlet through the hole and fitted a bilge pump.
You need someone who knows what they are doing to check it out.
When ply goes it just falls to bits
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22 December 2014, 11:33
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#27
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Caton
hi Gareth, welcome to the Revenger club
we've got a 715, which is basically the same hull as the 23 but was built as a package rather than a custom build, ours is fitted with a Honda 150hp, and is offset to starboard by approx 30mm, so I'd say yours is probably spot on
if you want any info about you rib, then the best option by a long way is to contact Phil Morris, he was the Sales Manager at Revenger before it was sold to Ribeye, he's a fountain of information about Revengers and a top bloke best way to contact him is via the Revenger facetube page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Reven...0?ref=ts&fref=
let me know if you need anything, more than happy to help
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Thanks for this advice. I contacted Phil Morris through Facebook and he came back very quickly with some excellent information. I have now removed the sealant from all the holes in the transom. All the holes except those from which I extracted the rusty lower mounting bolts were completely dry. The moisture in the two damps holes does not extend for more than 25 mm either. Since the boat has never been anti-fouled I doubt that it has sat long enough in the water for any serious quantity of moisture to get into the transom. The transom will now air for a few weeks and will then be re-sealed with fibreglass filler paste when the weather is warmer. My next task is to tidy the wiring and clean the (unbelievable) layer of grease/sand/god-knows-what from inside the two consoles.
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22 December 2014, 16:48
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,423
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glad to hear Phil helped you out Gareth, keep us updated with progress, and just keep in mind how good the Revenger will be when you get it sorted, we've been well pleased with ours
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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23 December 2014, 08:31
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gareth9702
All the holes except those from which I extracted the rusty lower mounting bolts were completely dry. The moisture in the two damps holes does not extend for more than 25 mm either.
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The owner thought the same about this one, it came in for a quick fix.
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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23 February 2015, 21:03
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#30
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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Work has progressed slowly but steadily on the Revenger. Most time has been spent collecting parts ready to fit when the weather improves. The most significant job has been to strip and rebuild the trim motor. One spring had rusted solid and the the wire to the bimetallic strip had pulled loose. Some cleaning, soldering, and painting now has the motor clean and functioning.
I have now turned my attention to the wiring and would welcome some advice.
The boat was built with twin engines and each engine had its own battery. It now has a single engine with the two batteries in parallel through an Off-1-All-2 isolator switch. My question concerns the bilge pump. The boat is going on a swinging mooring so I want the bilge pump to be left on. So, should I wire it directly to the deep cycle battery through its own switch? Thanks for your help.
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23 February 2015, 22:26
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Margate / Ramsgate
Boat name: Bumbl
Make: Scorpion
Length: 8m +
Engine: Yanmar diesel
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,837
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Yes exactly as you suggest but what will charge the "domestic" (let's assume it's batt 2) If you start and run off batt 1 ?
You want to avoid moving the switch with the engine running.
You don't want to start from "both"
If the pump has flattened batt 2.
You will need to install a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) or diode isolator.
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23 February 2015, 22:36
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#32
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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Excellent advice. Thanks very much. I have just read about VSRs and I can see that one will be needed.
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30 April 2015, 17:13
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#33
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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I have anti-fouled the Revenger this morning and am ready to launch for the first time on Saturday. I have no access to a hose at the storage yard so have not been able to run the engine. Provided it starts tomorrow everything is good to go. With the many layers of grease removed, all the rusty fittings replaced, the engine leg and lower covers painted, and the shiny bits polished, the boat now looks nothing like the dirty wreck I purchased!
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30 April 2015, 18:00
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#34
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,423
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hope all goes well on Saturday Gareth
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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02 May 2015, 20:05
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#35
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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The bad weather meant that the launch was postponed until next weekend. The good news is that the engine started for the first time in my ownership. It took a while to pump fuel through to the carbs but once it was done the engine started easily and ran cleanly.
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02 May 2015, 21:47
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,423
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shame about the weather Gareth, but excellent news re the engine, most likely be much easier to fire up now the fuels been run through keep us posted on progress
we had our 715 out last weekend on The Menai, getting on a bit now but still going strong
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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03 May 2015, 09:36
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#37
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Looking rather good there
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03 May 2015, 10:50
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#38
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,423
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thanks Nos4r2, I do my best 😁
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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14 June 2015, 21:10
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#39
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Adelaide
Boat name: No Name
Make: Revenger
Length: 7m +
Engine: 2 x Mercury 90
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 99
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Launch
The Revenger finally got launched from the old Tremlett Yard and motored onto its mooring on the Exe. It has now had several short runs and everything is working perfectly. Both daughters have put it through its paces and have given it their approval. Since launching I have replaced the automatic bilge pump and done some re-wiring to put wires in correct runs and remove unnecessary connections and wire. The next job is to fit a trim gauge and tidy the instrument wiring.
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14 June 2015, 22:59
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#40
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Enfield/Switzerland
Boat name: Zonneschijn II/Vixen
Make: Shakespeare/Avon
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evin' 175 DI /Yam 90
MMSI: 235055605
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,436
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How does it tow with the Xtrail?
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